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cleatus12r
Sat, August 29th, 2009, 06:00 PM
Here are a couple of updated pictures. Last night after work I finally installed the engine and transmission out of a 91 E-350 van into my 1973 F-100. I guess "installed" isn't the right word to use....more like, "got them set in the frame".

Now comes the tedious task of melding the old wiring harness with the new, making adapters for the headers (since the new engine has square exhaust ports and the old ones were oval), making a transmission crossmember, having a driveshaft built, and installing the frame-mounted fuel pump.

Once that work is out of the way, I need to re-dyno it so I can see how not-as-awesome this engine is compared to the last 460. This one will be a little more gutless but my entire motivation for this one comes from the E4OD and the multi-port FI. The previous engine was running an MSD 6A and the old analog Holley Pro-jection. I might add that the pro-jection is the cat's *** and I might just miss it.

We'll see.

cleatus12r
Sat, August 29th, 2009, 06:11 PM
Here's a dyno sheet of the previous TBI 460 and C6 transmission. It took a few runs to get the AFR dialed in, but we finally got it around 12.5:1 for the entire run.

Specs:

460
C6
8.5:1 compression
Stock cam (circa 1972)
Full length headers
Dual 3" exhaust into 2 Dynomax mufflers then merged into single 3"

In case you're wondering, the numbers listed on the left hand side of the dyno sheet were what my friends Eric and Phil and I guessed the rear wheel numbers would be before we started spinning the rollers. As you can see, I was way off.

F-127
Wed, September 16th, 2009, 10:38 PM
Interesting project Cody. 73-79 Fords are one of my favorite body styles. I'm guessing you'll eventually be running tuning from your Minotaur for the truck? How's the progress? Thumbs up from me for the project!:thumbs up yellow:

cleatus12r
Wed, September 16th, 2009, 10:57 PM
Dang honey-dos keep getting in the way of much progress right now.

Actually, as far as tuning goes, the only thing that I will need to fix is the shifting and torque converter scheduling. The stock PCM will be used, even with the forced induction. I plan on using a Dynojet PC-V to work the fuel and timing under boost.

Not much longer though. I'll be posting updates shortly.

Thanks for the kind words.

Power Hungry
Sun, September 20th, 2009, 01:11 AM
Cody,

Wouldn't you want to use a chip and live tune it???

cleatus12r
Sun, September 20th, 2009, 09:34 AM
Cody,

Wouldn't you want to use a chip and live tune it???


Probably not.
The only thing I might want to have the ability to change would be the shift strategies between a street tune and an all-out race tune (or how many "in-betweens" I might want).

The main problem encountered when using the stock PCM in this case is the lack
of a knock sensor. Not to mention the countless hours fiddling with A/F ratio when under boost (I'll need higher-flowing injectors anyway) and I really don't want to have to spend tons of time tuning it for detonation problems.

With the Dynojet PC5/Autotune combination wired in (more wiring.... :throwup: ), it will be as easy as installing a knock sensor, a wideband O2, and typing in what I want my A/F ratio to be under any load/RPM. After I drive it for a while, VOILA!! It's just "tuned" itself.


But in reality, who knows? I will be in touch if I need anything.
Thanks, Bill!

F-127
Fri, September 25th, 2009, 12:44 AM
Hmm, boost, there's an interesting point I didn't know last time I was reading. I'm liking your project more and more. Turbocharging your choice for boosting?

cleatus12r
Fri, September 25th, 2009, 08:32 AM
Oops. I forgot to mention that.

Yes, turbocharging is in the works after a naturally aspirated dyno.

A friend of mine turbocharged his '89 F-150 with a 300-6. He spent a long time tuning it using MegaSquirt and he ended up with 300 RWHP. The funny thing is that he also ended up with 575 ft. lbs. of torque at the rear wheels....at less than 3800 RPM.

So it's my turn now. I am hooked.

cleatus12r
Fri, March 5th, 2010, 02:45 PM
Well, the truck is FINALLY in the shop. I've wasted about 4 hours total trying to graft the old oval port headers to the square port heads and came up with the conclusion that the original '91 manifolds will have to work just fine. :sigh: My only hang up on the exhaust will be driving it 60 miles to Billings so an exhaust shop can make new head pipes (about 18" long a piece) and run them into my existing exhaust system. Open manifolds get really annoying quick.

In any case, I am about to run the power steering lines into town and get some new ones made that will go from the new Saginaw ( :happy-dancing: ) pump to my steering box. Getting rid of that whining POS Ford pump will be awesome.

I've got the wiring harness laid out and I'm sitting here trying to figure out what I want to hack out and what needs to stay. I've ripped off all of the idiotic vacuum solenoids and wiring for things like the EGR that have no purpose in life.

I am also trying to come up with a way for the accelerator pedal to work....going from a mechanical linkage to a cable. I'll figure something out.

I'm hoping that I can use my Holley "blue" fuel pump to feed the high pressure frame-mounted pump. The blue pump is a low pressure pump so I shouldn't have any problems but :shrug: .

I plan on mounting everything that needs to stay with the harness exactly like it's wired into the harness so it minimizes splicing so a lot of stuff will be mounted in precarious places but it will be done right. Keep in mind, the vans had things mounted a little differently than the pickups. I have a row of four connectors right above the thermostat housing...but that's where the stuff was in the van, so that's where it will be in the pickup.

907DAVE
Sun, March 7th, 2010, 02:31 AM
Whoa....just saw this. Looks like a cool project!

Longshot270
Sun, March 7th, 2010, 09:15 AM
I'd say that the gas pedal would be the easiest thing to fix compared to some of the other stuff your doing.:giggle: I would attatch the cable like I would for a go cart or bicycle. Then so that the pedal doesn't drop and cause WOT I'd counter weight it with a heavy spring.

907DAVE
Sun, March 7th, 2010, 12:25 PM
Ha....the first time I saw one of those mechanical throttle linkages I had to laugh. What a stupid thing to do, I mean it has like 10 different places to wear out.................did they not have cables back then.:giggle: I bet your are going to have to get creative to get that to work.

Longshot270
Sun, March 7th, 2010, 02:52 PM
Ha....the first time I saw one of those mechanical throttle linkages I had to laugh. What a stupid thing to do, I mean it has like 10 different places to wear out.................did they not have cables back then.:giggle: I bet your are going to have to get creative to get that to work.

Actually there wont be much creativity. By running the cable inside of flexible metal tubing that is just big enough for the cable he doesn't have to worry about making everything perfect. The outer tubing acts as a support for the cable inside it. As long as each end is anchored the cable can easily slide back and forth he could put loops and coils and it would still work. That is the key part in the shifters and brake controls in most bicycles. I also made a tool for running wires through tight spaces by using that idea. :cheesy smile:

cleatus12r
Mon, March 8th, 2010, 12:20 AM
Ha....the first time I saw one of those mechanical throttle linkages I had to laugh. What a stupid thing to do, I mean it has like 10 different places to wear out.................did they not have cables back then.:giggle: I bet your are going to have to get creative to get that to work.


It's simplicity at it's finest. Besides, if I ever have a Toyota unintentional acceleration event, I just put my foot under the pedal and lift it up. Problem solved.

If there were a way to rig up a mechanical linkage to the throttle body on this new engine, I'd do it in a heartbeat. Cables are stupid. There is no pedal feel whatsoever and they can stick/bind/break.

907DAVE
Sun, March 14th, 2010, 05:41 PM
If there were a way to rig up a mechanical linkage to the throttle body on this new engine, I'd do it in a heartbeat. Cables are stupid. There is no pedal feel whatsoever and they can stick/bind/break.

The only experience I have had with mechanical linkages has been bad. Try to synchronize a bank of carbs with mechanical link's, not much fun. Kinda reminds me of "runnin the rack's" on a 8-71.

cleatus12r
Mon, April 5th, 2010, 09:21 PM
Well, the "no carbs here" engine and transmission are sold. I'm busy trying to make some money so I can buy another truck.