jmt0645
Sun, March 14th, 2010, 11:55 AM
before i begin, sorry for the lack of pictures (accidentally smashed my camera:cry-blow:) will get some today with new camera.
what i've got is a 2004 2wd crewcab with 130,000 miles on the 5.4L. i wanted more power and louder exhaust so i ordered a set of pacesetter longtubes with offroad y-pipe and a 3"x12" cherrybomb glasspack.
1. be sure you have all needed tools
15mm deep well/ wrench
13mm deep well/ wrench
5mm 6pt socket
21mm impact socket
10mm deepwell
18mm deepwell
9/16 deepwell
6mm socket
3/8 socket/ wrench
u joint
extensions
blue thread locking compound
permatex ultra copper
LOTS of penetrating oil (i found liquid wrench to work best)
2. jack truck up and support with jack stands, set parking brake and chock wheels.
3. remove wheels, and fender liners using 6mm socket and 10mm socket
4.spray all bolts well with oil and let soak for atleast 30min.
5.while bolts soak, remove old y pipe assembly ( i used sawzall to cut it off)
6. loosen and remove cat down pipe using 15mm deepwell
7.using 13mm deepweel, loosen manifold bolts on driver side (penetratring oil is your best friend here), once the bolts are out the manifold should fall out.
8. remove the bolt studs using the 5mm 6pt socket.
9. clean sealing surface, prepare new gasket( the headers came with new paper type gaskets, i used felpro stainless gaskets from advance 22.00 for both set)
10.place driver side header in place (extra set of hands are a must), using loctite on supplied hardware start the bolts hand tight.
11.torque to 20lb-ft (mine were 3/8 bolts)
12. prepare yourself for the hard side with a smoke, beer, whatever.
13. start by loosening the trans mount from the crossmember using the 18mm deepwell, and unbolting the passenger motor mount using the 21mm impact and 10mm socket.
14. jack up the engine 2-3 inches (this is needed to reach OE bolts and install header)
15. using vise grips, (lube is your friend here too) remove the bolts/studs as one piece, manifold should fall out
16.now comes the fun part, to get the header in position. be aware it will try to fight you some but don't let it:evillol:. it will take some twisting/turning but it will go in from underneath.
17. once in position prepare gasket, lower engine back down
18. start the bolts (loctite) and torque to 20lb-ft going from the center out
19. retighten trans mount and motor mount and torque to spec ( 85lbft for motor/ 15lbft trans)
20. place new O2 sensors in headers. extensions my be required for the wiring harness. i used BBK part number 1676, 18" extensions for 93-08 mustangs, plug and play $30 on ebay
21.install new y pipe/ exhaust as per there instructions.
22. install the tuning you wish to use on your gryphon (93 perf for me)
23. start and let run for 45min so the headers get a good heat soak, let cool completely and retighten all hardware.
24. reinstall fender liners and wheels
lower truck and releas parking brake, ENJOY!
25. after 1 week check the torque on all hardware, if needed retorque.
for got to mention, 4wd trucks will need to mark the position of the front drive shaft and disconnect it to make more room to work.
this whole process to me 6 hours giving the hardware plenty of time to soak in lube.
what i've got is a 2004 2wd crewcab with 130,000 miles on the 5.4L. i wanted more power and louder exhaust so i ordered a set of pacesetter longtubes with offroad y-pipe and a 3"x12" cherrybomb glasspack.
1. be sure you have all needed tools
15mm deep well/ wrench
13mm deep well/ wrench
5mm 6pt socket
21mm impact socket
10mm deepwell
18mm deepwell
9/16 deepwell
6mm socket
3/8 socket/ wrench
u joint
extensions
blue thread locking compound
permatex ultra copper
LOTS of penetrating oil (i found liquid wrench to work best)
2. jack truck up and support with jack stands, set parking brake and chock wheels.
3. remove wheels, and fender liners using 6mm socket and 10mm socket
4.spray all bolts well with oil and let soak for atleast 30min.
5.while bolts soak, remove old y pipe assembly ( i used sawzall to cut it off)
6. loosen and remove cat down pipe using 15mm deepwell
7.using 13mm deepweel, loosen manifold bolts on driver side (penetratring oil is your best friend here), once the bolts are out the manifold should fall out.
8. remove the bolt studs using the 5mm 6pt socket.
9. clean sealing surface, prepare new gasket( the headers came with new paper type gaskets, i used felpro stainless gaskets from advance 22.00 for both set)
10.place driver side header in place (extra set of hands are a must), using loctite on supplied hardware start the bolts hand tight.
11.torque to 20lb-ft (mine were 3/8 bolts)
12. prepare yourself for the hard side with a smoke, beer, whatever.
13. start by loosening the trans mount from the crossmember using the 18mm deepwell, and unbolting the passenger motor mount using the 21mm impact and 10mm socket.
14. jack up the engine 2-3 inches (this is needed to reach OE bolts and install header)
15. using vise grips, (lube is your friend here too) remove the bolts/studs as one piece, manifold should fall out
16.now comes the fun part, to get the header in position. be aware it will try to fight you some but don't let it:evillol:. it will take some twisting/turning but it will go in from underneath.
17. once in position prepare gasket, lower engine back down
18. start the bolts (loctite) and torque to 20lb-ft going from the center out
19. retighten trans mount and motor mount and torque to spec ( 85lbft for motor/ 15lbft trans)
20. place new O2 sensors in headers. extensions my be required for the wiring harness. i used BBK part number 1676, 18" extensions for 93-08 mustangs, plug and play $30 on ebay
21.install new y pipe/ exhaust as per there instructions.
22. install the tuning you wish to use on your gryphon (93 perf for me)
23. start and let run for 45min so the headers get a good heat soak, let cool completely and retighten all hardware.
24. reinstall fender liners and wheels
lower truck and releas parking brake, ENJOY!
25. after 1 week check the torque on all hardware, if needed retorque.
for got to mention, 4wd trucks will need to mark the position of the front drive shaft and disconnect it to make more room to work.
this whole process to me 6 hours giving the hardware plenty of time to soak in lube.