Subwoofer and Amp mount ideas?

[ticopowell]

So i have my super cab 2005 F-150 and I have a 12" shallow mount memphis sub and 2 amps, 1 for the sub and 1 for the door speakers. I want to have as much space as possible without hurting the sub or the amps, so i was wondering if it is possible to mount the sub under the front center part of the front 40/20/40 bench seat with some modifications, and also my biggest question is if it is possible to put the amps behind the rear seat. I figure that this will give me the most room, and since the sub doesnt need a lot of space, if i can't put the amps behind the seat I can just put them under and then not use that area. Either way I still havent figured out how to remove it to see how much room there is, i assume ill have to pull the whole seat out to find out, but if anyone already has tried that or knows how to do it easily then please let me know. thanks :)
Also if anyone has any better ideas on how to put the rest of my system in there then please let me know! :D

[Longshot270]

Yeah, you can take that middle seat out to put something under it. I'm not sure how much room there is though. I had to loosen the front to slide a CB radio mount under it for support but I dont remember what kind/size of tool I used. If you do mount something under there that generates heat you will also need to find a way to move air to keep it cooled. I would mount the speaker amp there. Keep the subwoofer amp somewhere where air circulates. I dont even like sticking them under the seat because of the heat.

Just so you know, I have a similar setup. I have 2 12's being run by a 2 channel 750 peak watt sub amp and 2 car speakers being run by a 4 channel 280 watt speaker amp. I've got one size smaller cab so I built a plywood platform for the sub amp that lets it sit over the speaker amp. I use the speakers more than the subs so I dont think temp is a problem, but I'm only using 2 speakers.

[ticopowell]

Yeah that makes sense about the heat, I was looking online last night and I saw someone with an extended cab that put his amps behind the seats so I think I will see how different the back of my truck is. If I do put the sub under the front center seat I would most likely take out the metal framing and use MDF and then keep the seat cushion above it so I dont lose a seat. I think a downfacing subwoofer with about an inch or maybe 2 between the speaker and the floor will provide enough air movement to keep the sub cool.

[Longshot270]

Yeah, that'll work if you can get it to fit. I'm sure all the forums have their own projects but I know that f150.net has a few good ideas and projects that people have done.

Here is an older picture of my setup.
http://www.fordf150.net/photos/data/500/thumbs/IMG_1880.JPG (http://www.fordf150.net/photos/showphoto.php/photo/42201)

The only speaker you cant see is the 4x10 speaker on the other side of the amps. The speaker amp is below the subwoofer deck.

And I built everything sturdy so I didn't have to worry about not being able to set stuff on it. The speakers are sunk lower than the amp so anything that sits there does not put enough weight on the speakers to break them.

[ticopowell]

That looks pretty good. I am going to measure the size that would fit under the center seat and see what will fit, and worst case scenario ill do the amps on the back wall (if i can figure out how to get back there) and the sub under the rear seat. that seems to be a fairly common option. ill post pics for sure when it is done.

[Longshot270]

That looks pretty good. I am going to measure the size that would fit under the center seat and see what will fit, and worst case scenario ill do the amps on the back wall (if i can figure out how to get back there) and the sub under the rear seat. that seems to be a fairly common option. ill post pics for sure when it is done.

If you want to do that just mount a board on the other side of the plastic. I've seen a few that did just that and they made it look really cool.

[ticopowell]

which plastic for what? haha

[Longshot270]

On the back wall...or did you mean the actual metal back wall? :skeptic:
I meant the plastic you see just below the back window. :hehe:

[ticopowell]

Haha I saw someone remove the seat and put a board there then the amps, and that went right on the metal, another one i saw someone use 3m tape to secure the amp right to the metal back wall...:confused: is that even safe? haha:giggle: And from what I remember there is no plastic between the window and the back seat, not enough room, there is some type of fabric material and the child seat straps i believe. :crazy: So right now the plan would be to use as much of the old amp rack as possible behind the seat, then put the sub in front, and run the wires either under the carpet (should I be worried about wear and tear there?) or run them the long way down the side of the truck under the plastic trim/floor panel.

[Longshot270]

:doh: I completely forgot that the cab you have has a tiny little bench seat. I knew a guy who built something like a center consol and mounted a high quality 12 inch sub in it. It was a good idea because you did lose a little bit of floor space but you gained a small table/consol in the back...you just didn't set an open cup in it when the radio was going. :hehe:

Wherever you mount the amp remember that they can get to be over 200˚ (I kept a thermometer on mine one time and watched it climb when the subs were getting hard use).

The wires will be fine under the carpet. I've got my CB antenna wire run down there and it is still good but you can go along the trim if you want to do it easy. I have found that the best tool to run wires is a decent length of weed eater line. It is stiff enough where it will push through stuff but is not so stiff that it can't make turns. When you get the line through just tape whatever wire your running to it and carefully pull it through.

[ticopowell]

Sounds like a great idea with the weed eater line! I went and looked at it today and I think i know how to get the rear seat off, there were lots of ideas that people told me, from unbolting the bottom part and getting a crowbar to pry it up(sounds fishy to me), then some car audio installer said i just need to get my hand back there and find a little latch and unhook it. But ill see what i can do, probably easies to do it after removing the plastic side panel in back. and with the sub i went to a place and asked and the guy said that my current box should work, I just need wont have a center seat, and I just need to add some "legs" to make sure the sub isnt hitting the ground when its going. I will also have to add something to it so there isnt a gaping hole next to the armrest. Ill take a pic tomorrow to show what it looks like now, and then highlight what I think might work for at least a short term install :).:cheesy smile:

[ticopowell]

So i guess i forgot to take a picture lol... But i did get the Amps installed, and the subwoofer "installed"... well temporarily at least. There was a small car show here at the academy today, and I was playing my stereo in it and I guess the amps heated up a little back there... so the sub stopped working... :( I am guessing/hoping that it just overheated the amp and didnt do any real damage, but if it did I guess I will have to buy a new amp sometime soon, so any ideas of a small, COOL, amp with maybe even a fan that would work for my 500 watt sub? I am also considering using a 5 channel amp to power everything but IDK how much that would be, or if its even worth it since my door speakers seem to be working just fine. Also that was the first time the stereo was playing anything decently loud for an extended period of time so it looks like it needs a cooler area. I really dont want the amps under the back seat, but If i have to I guess i can do that. Any other ideas for amp placement?
On another note here are some pics from today!
http://forum.gopowerhungry.com/members/ticopowell-albums-my-new-my-old-trucks-picture675-my-truck-f-4-behind-btw-f-4-shot-down-6-migs-during-vietnam-2-were-steve-ritchie-first-air-force-ace-vietnam-d.jpg

http://forum.gopowerhungry.com/members/ticopowell-albums-my-new-my-old-trucks-picture674-my-truck-cadet-chapel-behind.jpg

:) now you all know what it looks like here... if anyone is around and they want a tour then by all means let me know!

[Longshot270]

How did you have the subs hooked up? There are 2 popular ways to do it and one has more power but will overheat an amp QUICK.

+1,-1 is positive and negative connections for sub #1,
+2, -2 is positive and negative connections for sub #2

This is for a 2 channel amp but I'm not sure if thats what your using. the tabs to connect the wires are this little symbol, [. A 2 channel amp has 4 little tabs, 3 channel has 6, etc.

For standard hookup, this will generally work the best.
-[...-1
+[..+1
-[...-2
+[..+2


This is for "bridging". Bridging will have a slightly higher output but the amp will heat up WAY faster. Also, not all amps are bridgable.
-[...-1,-2
+[
-[
+[...+1,+2


To help keep the amp cool a friend of mine made a small box that fit around his amp and he mounted computer fans on it to move air.
What watt are the subs(is it one 500 watt sub or 2 250s) and what watt is the amp? You said 500 watt sub but I thought you were running two subs.

[ticopowell]

It is a mono amp, an orion cobalt 800.1, so 800 watts max, 400 watts rms, the sub is a memphis 12" shallowmount 500 watt rms 1000 watt peak, it also is a dual voice coil, but im not sure if its a dual 4ohm or a dual 2 ohm, i know both exist with this sub. the amp has 2 speaker outputs even though it is a mono, and the sub is hooked up with the positive wire in the output for 1, and the negative in the output in the other. I hooked it all up just like the place that first put it in did, so IDK if that is bridged, or how the sub is exactly wired. I want to say that the sub is a dual 4 ohm wired in parallel so the amp sees 2 ohms.
let me know if this helps, im still fairly new at this whole car audio stuff, but i researched a lot before I put this system in, but i still dont know too much haha :rofl: Thanks for the help.

[Longshot270]

Dont worry, your already smater than the average bear just for knowing that much. Since it is a mono amp hook the (-)(+) on the outside of the speaker output. I dont think that amp is considered "bridged" unless you hook it up to another...or thats at least what they say. How was it hooked up originally?

For the speaker resistance, they should have something like 2, 4 or 8 ohm stamped into the housing or on a sticker on the back. I have always just tried to keep the total speaker rms close to the amp's rms. For example, my amp is 250 watt rms and I have 2 subs, a 100 and a 150 (or something similar)

How long and how hard did you have it going?

[ticopowell]

I havent changed how it was hooked up before, when I took it out of the old truck I didnt unhook anything from the amps except the power, I just cut the wires so they I could take them all out of my old truck, so of the 4 speaker wire outputs, -+-+ the wires were hooked up to the middle 2, the +-. I will look at the manual for the amp and see what it says.
I had the volume at about 75% with the sub gain up fairly loud... basically i provided music for half of the cars there haha... til it stopped working that is:smiley_roll1: I know the amp got pretty hot because i started feeling back there to see and it almost burned me... so yeah... I think i need to either move it to a different spot, or get one with a fan that will fit into the same spot behind the seat.

[Longshot270]

Yeah thats what I do. Whenever I get together with a group of people out side I crank up the stereo. But so that I dont kill my truck battery I have a marine/RV deep cycle battery. It actually has more amps than the regular battery so it'll last longer and louder. You should also check the Hz that it is tuned for. The higher frequencies tend to produce less heat while still having good sound.

[ticopowell]

yeah when i need a new battery I will get a really good one like that. I brought my sub into the place where I bought it, and it blew... so they are replacing it under warranty :), but it will take a few weeks to get here :/, but I did get a security system/remote start system ordered as well as some nerf bars. So once the sub gets back, and I get all those installed, my truck will be pretty sweet! :happy-dancing: oh and I put a backup camera in too!

[Longshot270]

Yeah I installed a remote starter in my truck and its pretty sweet, especially when its cold, have yet to try it when its hot. Only gotten over 80 a few times down here.

There are isolater systems that use 2 batteries. One for the stereo and another for the engine starter and basic systems and the stereo battery doesn't kick on until the engine is putting out the 14 volts.

I actually got my speaker amp because the owner thought it was blown. Turns out the fuse was only burnt and so it hadn't worked in over 5 years. FYI, the amp is so old the line was discontinued in 1994 and this thing is still working nicely.:woot:

[ticopowell]

haha that is a great way to get an amp!, I got both of mine for $100 each because they are B-stock, only 1 problem so far with those, but the place i bought it from replaced it for free because it happened only like 2-3 months after I bought it.
I want to get an isolator like that because Ive noticed my lights dim a little when the sound is up, but ive only noticed it when the engine is running slow, like less than 1500 rpm's. When i do get the underdrive pulleys I will for sure have to increase the Idle speed so I dont drain my battery! :giggle:
And I cant wait for my remote started to be installed, that will be great in summer and winter! and we get pretty harsh for both of those! lol

[Longshot270]

I was going to buy an isolater but when I went to a custom audio place they just said they would rig something like that (in other words they didn't have a clue what I was talking about).

The remote starter is actually pretty easy to do as long as you take your time and get the connections right. I actually thought it was fun. Showed it off to some friends and I'll be putting one in a friend's chevy and making a race style start system for a friend's car.

...yeah we get pretty harsh winters over here too. I remember three times where the temperatures were in the 20's. :hehe:

[ticopowell]

ooh 20... sounds like a brisk fall to me... :smiley_roll1: and I am having a pro install the alarm/remote start system... I would rather have the warranty and stuff that comes with that :D