Should I replace my plugs?

[ticopowell]

Hey all,
I have been thinking lately that I should probably replace my plugs sooner rather than later. I have 67xxx miles and I want to have as few problems with them as possible. I called the local dealer and they didn't quote a total price(they said they would call back), but they said if any plugs break its an extra $55 a plug. Is this a good price for that? they also said that it will cost a lot more if they have to pull the heads to fix them... :throwup:.
I also could do it myself at the on base auto hobby shop, but I am not sure if the trouble is worth it. I searched for some helpful links on here and other web sites, but I can't find any, so those would also be appreciated. :)
Thanks in advanced for all the help! :cool:

Oh and I have a 2005 F-150 with the 5.4, thanks again.

[hampsterzone]

I changed mine at 90,000 miles. Actually twice now! I had to recently change them due to Auto lite plug failure. I was having all sorts of misses w/ no codes. So do yourself a favor and only use the exact Ford replacement. My mechanic used the special tool to remove my originals without any problems and mine was on a 2004 5.4 Triton. If I was you I would buy the parts from Ford and either do them yourself or have a mechanic to them. It cost me $130.00 plus parts. It is always better to do proper maintenance then costly repairs my friend! If you can afford it change the coil packs too and save the old ones for spares. You can do them yourself, pretty easy if you have the right tools to reach in the back. Good luck! Please do not go cheap, buy the more expensive Ford plugs. It ended up costing me a lot of money just to pull the Auto Zone plugs that were OEM replacements within 2 months.

[ticopowell]

Thanks, and yeah I saw the fiasco that you went through :/, not fun at all. I just called the stealership again and they said around $580 to replace them all, and that is if they do not break, then add $55 if one breaks, and up to 4 breaking is $160...
I am going to call around and see what other's price it out at in the area, and also search online to do it myself possible at the shop on base... they have most tools that I could ever need, but this is kinda special so ill see.. :)
Thanks again, and any other input is always welcome!

[hampsterzone]

If you can have someone help you, buy your parts from Ford. Use the money you save from labor to buy all the parts you need to change. A.K.A. coil packs! Might as well do it all while you are doing it. Use a little bit of anti-seize but not too much! And put them in tight! Oh yeah my friend, GOOD LUCK!

[ticopowell]

Thanks again! :), and that's the plan, there is a car club here and most people are willing to help out if needed :D, it's actually pretty handy.

[jmwilso2]

I insisted the dealership change the plugs when I bought my truck and I've actually made it my policy to loosen them off and re apply the anti sieze then reinstall them every 25000 to avoid the old stuck plug problem. Its a bit of a pain but I never need to worry.

Joe

[Jackpine]

Here's one "how-to": Sparkplug Change for 2004-2008 5.4 3V-Step by Step - F150online Forums (http://www.f150online.com/forums/articles-how-tos/430004-sparkplug-change-2004-2008-5-4-3v-step-step.html)

And another: Changed My Spark Plugs Today/ Writeup - F150online Forums (http://www.f150online.com/forums/articles-how-tos/438927-changed-my-spark-plugs-today-writeup.html)

And yet another: Spark Plug Change on 2004-Early 2008 5.4 3V - F150online Forums (http://www.f150online.com/forums/articles-how-tos/416976-spark-plug-change-2004-early-2008-5-4-3v.html)

And finally, a technique when things go wrong: New method to extract porcelain from broken spark plugs - F150online Forums (http://www.f150online.com/forums/articles-how-tos/352132-new-method-extract-porcelain-broken-spark-plugs.html)

I believe Ford is now recommending a plug change at 70-75K, rather than the old 100K, so you're about due. The BIG caution is "patience", and a cold engine as I recall (I did not read through those threads before posting and am working from what little memory I still have).

And, I believe, the important place for the anti-seize is on the porcelain nose of the plug, not just the threads, because that's where the carbon build-up causes them to bind (and break).

Good luck!

- Jack

[ticopowell]

jmwilso2, Great Idea! wish I had thought of that... and Thanks Jack for the links! I looked for a few but didnt find too much help... :/

[ticopowell]

I decided to wait until at least summer to change them, I put seafoam in the gas tank and I started getting a few mpg's more than before at start, and then part of my trip from utah I got 17.7 hand calculated mpg's!!!! I know a large part of that, probably 1-2mpg's, was from the wind, but still I am pretty happy about it! :D

[88Racing]

I decided to wait until at least summer to change them, I put seafoam in the gas tank and I started getting a few mpg's more than before at start, and then part of my trip from utah I got 17.7 hand calculated mpg's!!!! I know a large part of that, probably 1-2mpg's, was from the wind, but still I am pretty happy about it! :D

Don't use this.....
Use techron instead....
At the dealership our plug changes got more successful with customers using the techron in TWO tanks of gas before their plug change than using seafoam.....

Crack the plugs 1/8 turn and soak with carb cleaner for an hour....

then use an Impact and have the lisle tool handy.....

Coat the nose/ heat shield only with the nickel anti sieze and not the threads.....

[ticopowell]

thanks! ill do that before I change them. Any other advice you could provide for changing them?

[88Racing]

thanks! ill do that before I change them. Any other advice you could provide for changing them?

Blow out the plug wells really good with compressed air

And

patience patience patience

[ticopowell]

Thanks again! :cheesy smile:

[Jackpine]

Don't use this.....
Use techron instead....
At the dealership our plug changes got more successful with customers using the techron in TWO tanks of gas before their plug change than using seafoam.....

Crack the plugs 1/8 turn and soak with carb cleaner for an hour....

then use an Impact and have the lisle tool handy.....

Coat the nose/ heat shield only with the nickel anti sieze and not the threads.....

Now THAT's interesting!

- Jack