2000 International 4700 with orion

[Absolution]

Well, this is going to be a bit different to show my initial experience with the Orion system as I sadly was not there to experience it being put on my truck.

That being said I have been patiently waiting for it's debut. But for what ever reason on June first I called to see if there was any new news on the unit. By the stars aligning they said today was the first day it was officially for sale. No convincing was needed by them, "Just take my money".

My brother was home and able to install it both from reading the clearly written directions and hearing my brother's feedback everything was straight forward and to the point. The turn around for the tunes were pretty much next day.

There were 7 power options available to me on the tune which you have to use the flashing unit to install and only one can be used at a time. So no on the fly switching. But that's fine with me.

175hp
195hp
210hp
230hp
250hp
275hp
300hp

My truck is as stated in the title is a
2000 4700, t444e, 5 speed spicer with two speed rear end. All of which to my knowledge have 227k miles on it (Except obvious fluid changes and one rear end servo) with both welders on board and two gang boxes full the truck weight is just over 18k. (Today It was ran with just one welder and gang boxes empty so probably just over or under 17k)

Some minor things on the truck.
Factory down pipe to a 5" Donaldson straight through muffler to a 4" stack on side of truck.

A freshly rebuilt turbo. <- it's going to be getting a wastegate 1.0 housing. EDIT: I went with a KC300X stage 1 .83 housing.

Oil rail crossover.

Stainless bellowed uppipes.

Pyrometer and boost gauges.

Brand new water pump, radiator, and hoses

EDIT: photos not scaling.

Once I return from work later this year I'm hoping to go over the valve train, new single shot injectors, glow plugs, and finishing the regulated return.

Here is a short video sent to me of the truck with the 275hp tune. I had my brother back it down to the 250hp tune due to both the miles on the motor and wanting to limit the boost to below 30psi. During the end of which you can hear my father's laugher of joy as well. I can't promise any other videos for awhile as well. So for that I'm sorry as well.

https://youtu.be/nxAC9b3agoU

[Acidanthris]

I love your father's slight laugh at the smoke... made me smile. :)

I'm glad the Orion has worked well for your truck so far... thanks for the feedback!

Angela

[Power Hungry]

Chris,

Thanks for posting up the video. That was awesome. I was enjoying just watching the truck scooting through the gears, but when the camera switched to the mirrors I got a huge smile. :cheesy smile: I was thinking, "I know where this is going." Of course, I was not disappointed. I was chuckling about the same time as your dad was. :hehe:

In any event, that's a really nice build. I see a lot of work going into the truck and it's paying off. Heck, you've got a small fortune just in Klimat, but I bet it really helps quiet things down. Can't wait to see it all finished up. :thumbsup:

Again, thanks for sharing and look forward to future updates.

Take care and God bless.

[Absolution]

Chris,

Thanks for posting up the video. That was awesome. I was enjoying just watching the truck scooting through the gears, but when the camera switched to the mirrors I got a huge smile. :cheesy smile: I was thinking, "I know where this is going." Of course, I was not disappointed. I was chuckling about the same time as your dad was. :hehe:

In any event, that's a really nice build. I see a lot of work going into the truck and it's paying off. Heck, you've got a small fortune just in Klimat, but I bet it really helps quiet things down. Can't wait to see it all finished up. :thumbsup:

Again, thanks for sharing and look forward to future updates.

Take care and God bless.


Yes, the killmat absolutely helped remove a lot of the highway drone. I've also got some firewall noise blocker I need to finish installing when I get back. what's left I just turn up the sound system.....

This morning I've ordered a

4" powerstroke downpipe to cut and fab up for the international.

A wastegated housing and actuator

Comp Cams valve springs

I'm looking at a stage 1 rebuild kit for the bottom end that I can keep on shelf until I need it.

I'm also going to hold off on ordering new injectors until I get home so I'm not sitting on a core charge for months.

I personally don't like the smoke, (Even though my other truck on my page does), and all I'm looking for in this truck is a reliable and cool 300-350 hp in the end.

That's why I was so excited about the reflash tool. It's opened so many options for me. As before I was looking a DT446 NGD swap but I didn't want to move the transmission back and lose my center console.

[Power Hungry]

It's funny, because I'm not big on smoke either. We have worked very hard over the years to make files that run clean and strong. At one point in time, we did make files like Smoke Show and Lope Idle, but we've long since done away with those. In fact, we've taken heat from customers that wanted us to build those types of tunes and we've refused.

In your situation, we can certainly tone down the low boost fueling to eliminate that puff of smoke when laying into the throttle, but the downside would be a bit of turbo lag. It really comes down to the idea that those trucks need all the help they can get to start moving, so the compromise was to add a little more fuel in the low boost area to help get moving and get the turbo spooling. Of course, that was on the big file, so dropping down to level 4 or 5 would also help clean the exhaust up.

I'm certainly interested in hearing your thoughts on the drivability vs. smoke. Whenever you have some time, feel free to give us a shout and we can discuss it. Or, if it's easier, we can just plod on through here. At least then, other folks could benefit from the conversation.

Keep me posted. :thumbsup:

[Absolution]

It's funny, because I'm not big on smoke either. We have worked very hard over the years to make files that run clean and strong. At one point in time, we did make files like Smoke Show and Lope Idle, but we've long since done away with those. In fact, we've taken heat from customers that wanted us to build those types of tunes and we've refused.

In your situation, we can certainly tone down the low boost fueling to eliminate that puff of smoke when laying into the throttle, but the downside would be a bit of turbo lag. It really comes down to the idea that those trucks need all the help they can get to start moving, so the compromise was to add a little more fuel in the low boost area to help get moving and get the turbo spooling. Of course, that was on the big file, so dropping down to level 4 or 5 would also help clean the exhaust up.

I'm certainly interested in hearing your thoughts on the drivability vs. smoke. Whenever you have some time, feel free to give us a shout and we can discuss it. Or, if it's easier, we can just plod on through here. At least then, other folks could benefit from the conversation.

Keep me posted. :thumbsup:


Well, that little bit doesn't bother me and I completely understand the prefueling. I probably should have just said smoke and not "the smoke", that amount to me was completely acceptable.

That being said if I get the 160 single shots and one of your hotter tunes 275-300. Do you think it would do decent in the mountains with the trailer or would I be looking at a different turbo, If that's the case what would you recommend? Since I've already installed new uppipes I don't really want to go to a T flange.

Also Would you recommend keeping with the stock size nozzles on the stage 1 injectors?

My other truck was running 5x.016s (now 5x.012 using it on property) and a k31 single with a ported head and some other odds and ends.. I built it when I was enlisted and I didn't have to tow anything. It just made a single hot pass then cooled down lol. I also daily drove it like this and would travel 1000 miles trips one or twice a year. But yeah, it doesn't pull any kind of trailer on the road.

[Power Hungry]

Honestly, the stock turbos seem to perform pretty well, especially when swapping to a 1.0 housing. Improves low RPM spool and still open enough to keep EGTs in check. My only recommendation would be to call DieselSite and order a Wicked Wheel for that turbo. Makes a noticeable improvement in airflow, particularly when pulling.

One advantage you have is that you are running a manual. EGTs are almost always caused by lugging the engine in too high of a gear. With the ability to just knock it down a gear or two and get the RPMs up, you can increase airflow through the engine which keeps the EGTs in a reasonable range. You could concieveably run a 38R turbo with a 1.0 or 1.15 housing if EGTs start getting unmanageable, but you're going to lose some bottom end as these turbos are slower to spool than the standard GTP38. I guess it all depends on the type of driving you anticipate normally operating the vehicle in.

On the Stage 1's, yes... I'm personally a big fan of keeping the nozzles stock. Unless you're spending a lot of time over 3000 RPM, stock nozzles don't have any problem discharging 160cc of fuel. On the Power Stroke counterparts, we regularly see 350-375 HP while still running the stock turbo. With appropriate exhaust (which you've already addressed), EGTs should be very manageable even as power output crests 300 HP.

The only real concern we really have on the Navistars is the rather anemic cooling system thermal dissipation. Most of these trucks run the split radiator/intercooler, and this can cause elevated operating temps at higher power outputs with heavy loads. You, however, are ahead of the game as you already addressed many of these issues with replacing the radiator (they get pretty cruddy inside) and the water pump. If your timing cover is the setup that has the coolant filter included, just make sure to change that regularly.

I hope this is helpful.

[Absolution]

Honestly, the stock turbos seem to perform pretty well, especially when swapping to a 1.0 housing. Improves low RPM spool and still open enough to keep EGTs in check. My only recommendation would be to call DieselSite and order a Wicked Wheel for that turbo. Makes a noticeable improvement in airflow, particularly when pulling.

One advantage you have is that you are running a manual. EGTs are almost always caused by lugging the engine in too high of a gear. With the ability to just knock it down a gear or two and get the RPMs up, you can increase airflow through the engine which keeps the EGTs in a reasonable range. You could concieveably run a 38R turbo with a 1.0 or 1.15 housing if EGTs start getting unmanageable, but you're going to lose some bottom end as these turbos are slower to spool than the standard GTP38. I guess it all depends on the type of driving you anticipate normally operating the vehicle in.

On the Stage 1's, yes... I'm personally a big fan of keeping the nozzles stock. Unless you're spending a lot of time over 3000 RPM, stock nozzles don't have any problem discharging 160cc of fuel. On the Power Stroke counterparts, we regularly see 350-375 HP while still running the stock turbo. With appropriate exhaust (which you've already addressed), EGTs should be very manageable even as power output crests 300 HP.

The only real concern we really have on the Navistars is the rather anemic cooling system thermal dissipation. Most of these trucks run the split radiator/intercooler, and this can cause elevated operating temps at higher power outputs with heavy loads. You, however, are ahead of the game as you already addressed many of these issues with replacing the radiator (they get pretty cruddy inside) and the water pump. If your timing cover is the setup that has the coolant filter included, just make sure to change that regularly.

I hope this is helpful.

Awesome thank you for the info. I'm not entirely in-depth with the 7.3.

Yes, It is a split radiator, I wanted to go to the older style but it was what was available at the time and by time I mean discovered a hole in the bottom of it when I tried to flush it and clean out the fins.

Since I've had new radiator and I've set the clutch to a lower temp she's been doing pretty well even on the hot days. Hopefully once most of this is done it will live in the flat lands. Maybe only pull a camper to the mountains.

EDIT:
Also as far as stock EGT's go in when I was towing up the mountains it wouldn't go over 1050 before. That was with the factory 1.0 housing and the probe right above manifold on driver side uppipe. So I figured I did have some wiggle room.

Something to ask on with this reflash system am I still able to use my nexiq to interface with the truck?

[Power Hungry]

Also as far as stock EGT's go in when I was towing up the mountains it wouldn't go over 1050 before. That was with the factory 1.0 housing and the probe right above manifold on driver side uppipe. So I figured I did have some wiggle room.

Something to ask on with this reflash system am I still able to use my nexiq to interface with the truck?

If you're peaking at about 1050 now, then yes... You've got a little room. 1150-1200 sustained under heavy load is about the max you'll want to see, with short bursts (10-15 seconds) at 1250-1300 being okay.

As for the Nexiq, that should still work just fine. I use mine on the bench all the time and I can't even count how many times I've reflashed my test PCMs. ;)

[Absolution]

I did get my wastegate related stuff in along with a 4" downpipe that I'll need to fab up.

Also, I did some hunting I'm not sure if my turbo is like the van turbos with the larger exhaust side shaft. If that's the case I may just end up buying a KC300X. My biggest worry is if it tries to surge in mountains and I swear there used to be more stock ported housings on market but all I'm seeing ATS branded one for $400. So if I also have to get a smaller shaft I'm kind of pushing the monetary point of just investing in a complete turbo.

[Absolution]

Well I went ahead and bit the bullet ordered a kc300x stage 1 for my truck. In hopes of keeping everything cool and running smoothly in the future.

[Power Hungry]

Well I went ahead and bit the bullet ordered a kc300x stage 1 for my truck. In hopes of keeping everything cool and running smoothly in the future.

:drool2: Gonna be a nice setup!

[Absolution]

:drool2: Gonna be a nice setup!

I'm really hoping that I made the right choice with the stage 1. I had read where some people had better results with the stage two buy only when they were towing and the truck was under a heavy load. I'm just curious if my lower gearing and weight would bump me into that category.

But I've pulled that trigger and we will see where it gets me.


I was also talking to my brother and I could always open up some beers take the super single off my dodge and fab up a jerry rigged compound on truck.
I could even use the mechanical fuel pump hole as an oil return.
Besides since the dodge became a property truck I dropped the sticks back to 5x012 and it could really use a 63mm sized charger now.

[Absolution]

I got the turbo in! KC300X 63/68/.84

[Power Hungry]

Oh, that's gonna be sweet! Can't wait to see how it goes after the install is done. :thumbsup:

Have fun!

[Absolution]

Minor inconveniences. ( I foresaw some of it but my brain decided to look the other way)

While the stock turbo's compressor side is gtp38 based along with the newer style flange. The exhaust downpipe flange is tp38 based.
Why does this matter? The stock down pipe won't let the new turbo drop in and work.....

TP38 sleeves the downpipe into the turbo exhaust flange.
GTP38 Sleeves the exhaust flange into the downpipe.

Without me being there, I'm not sure about my father crawling under truck to do it to swap out to the new downpipe I had ordered. He said he could swap the turbo and I was already worried somewhat about that.

I'm probably going to call him today and have him to take it to a shop local for the downpipe and just have them temporally clamp the 4" downpipe to the old turbo if he really wants to do the turbo.

I guess an expedient thing to do would be grind off the mating lip on the newer style if you couldn't replace your down pipe. You could also try to take a Dremel and cut off the lip on old style down pipe but that pipe is pretty hard and you'd be there for a minute . - For the skoolie people

Uploaded are photos of the GTP vs TP exhaust.

[Power Hungry]

Damn, there's a wrinkle I hadn't anticipated. Never a dull moment, I suppose.

Thanks for the pictures, though. That will be super helpful to others who might be considering the same modifications.

[Absolution]

I came home for this week. I've started the install of the KC300X stage 1 .84.

Everything is drop in except you have to order a 4" 90* elbow and as previously stated fab a down pipe.

I ended up Mig welding instead of Tig since I'm going to be covering it up with header wrap and I wasn't going to waste my time. I drove it with essentially a from axle dump and touched 1,300* once running though the gears (250hp setting). Once I get the muffler hooked back up I'll pressure test the system to check for leaks on the cold side then I'll start playing around with the other power settings.

I can however say the turbo spooled way faster than before even though it's inducer side is larger.

[Power Hungry]

I gotta tell ya... That is one sexy beast! I'm surprised at how much you had to fab up on the downpipe, but I guess that's just what it is.

Can't wait to see it all finished up! :thumbsup:

[Absolution]

It was basically hitting the engine mounts or was hitting the transmission. The rail of the downpipe was also aiming up and forwards the cab.

[Power Hungry]

What a mess... Good thing you got the skills (and tools) to fix it!

[KAMcustomsllc]

I have the same old truck but a little heavier. Full of tools, welder, crane. 4 door with 5 speed and 2 speed rear. Old railroad truck. I replaced the transmission last year because it was jumping out of forth. Wanted a 10 speed but didn’t want to buy a different pto for my crane and compressor so put the same style back in. Adrenaline HPOP and AD injectors. OEM had AB’s in it and was rated at 190 hp. Tried playing with the icp mods and map sensor but eventually bought the Orion. Stage 4 is plenty for 25k lbs on a 260k mile truck. It sits and idles at least 5 hours a day while I’m working off of it.

[Absolution]

I have the same old truck but a little heavier. Full of tools, welder, crane. 4 door with 5 speed and 2 speed rear. Old railroad truck. I replaced the transmission last year because it was jumping out of forth. Wanted a 10 speed but didn’t want to buy a different pto for my crane and compressor so put the same style back in. Adrenaline HPOP and AD injectors. OEM had AB’s in it and was rated at 190 hp. Tried playing with the icp mods and map sensor but eventually bought the Orion. Stage 4 is plenty for 25k lbs on a 260k mile truck. It sits and idles at least 5 hours a day while I’m working off of it.

Same exactly even down to the mileage (It was a crane truck) , Mine is an old CSX out of JACK Florida. Today I did play around with the 300hp setting since I have the new turbo hooked up. I touched 1,300 once lugging it in 5th high. If I go back on the turnpike I'm going to drop it back down to 250hp. But after all my fun today I do plan on purchasing a water methanol system.

[Power Hungry]

Today I did play around with the 300hp setting since I have the new turbo hooked up. I touched 1,300 once lugging it in 5th high. If I go back on the turnpike I'm going to drop it back down to 250hp. But after all my fun today I do plan on purchasing a water methanol system.

1300 on Level 7 while lugging isn't too bad at all. That actually might be a tad better than I would have expected. What RPM were you lugging at? These engines like airflow and, as you well know, the only way to achieve that is with some RPM. Keeping it above 2400 under heavy load will certainly help the EGT issues.

Water/Meth is a good solution for high EGT under heavy load. Use the smallest nozzles possible to keep EGTs in check. I've always liked the setup Snow Performance offered. It is programmable based on boost and/or EGT, and can control two stages. This is the kit I normally install...

Snow Performance Water/Meth Stage 3 Kit (https://www.nitrousexpress.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=A11BCC914C884E9FA1AC8302 EF2FB96A)

Keep your methanol percentage low... <10% and you'll be fine. It'll give you just enough hit to offset any loss in power from the water, and still drop EGTs pretty well.

Overall, it's looking like you're making headway. Keep us posted as things progress. Always like a good build. :cool_beans:

[Absolution]

It was in 5th high she started off at 2000 rpm and the foot in the floor the egts were a slow climb so the new turbo is keeping up. She seems like the 300hp would be drivable in the flat. Today I'm thinking of hooking up one of the trailers and putting it under a real load which will give us a better idea.

[Power Hungry]

Brilliant! Let me know what your numbers look like. That's handy info. :D

[Absolution]

Here We go! Two weekends and non stop from dawn to evening. I got it fired up late last night and today I drove it a bit before I had to get back on the road to travel 5 hours back to work.

The build so far is.
Orion - single shot tunes from PHP running 275hp setting
160/0 injectors from Full Force diesel
Kc300X stage 1
Homemade 4" Downpipe, 5" Donaldson muffler, 4" factory stack
Bellowed uppipes
910 valve springs
ARP head studs
Dual Super Duty pumps - Removed mechanical lift pump
DIY Regulated return with fuel bowl delete (Set at 65-67 PSI)
Hiflow Banjo bolts
CNC Fab Hpop Lines
Riffraff crossover
Some Ebay Plenums

So, This time around with the custom tunes the throttle response seemed to be even better, The truck was also running slightly cooler and cleaner. (Or at least the EGTs were climbing slower.)
The RPM limit seems to of been lowered from 3000 to 2800. But that may have been Bill slowing down the defuel map as before I made comment about the throttle just cutting out instantly when I hit 3000 running through gears.
The cleaner bit may also be from Bill turning down the pre boost fuel. - He may have also done this where I said I wanted to clean up some of the smoke.

The idle seems to be way smoother as well. But That could also be because I found two random reman AD's hiding under a valve cover so maybe one of them was acting up. (Even though with my other tool I passed injector tests multiple times.)

The truck does have a weird cackle now when around 1500ish RPM both through the high idle and computer, as far as the high idle is concerned this maybe the computer trying to catch itself from spinning faster.

It also has a lope almost when you cut out of throttle and let it return to idle almost as if the timing is very advanced (This is an ignorant guess my experience isn't with 7.3s) But I could also guess it maybe because of air still being in the HPOP lines. The truck also takes a minute to start but I'm also very very sure this is from air being in the Hpop lines still. (I really hope that's all it is)

I did also ring the trucks neck once on my dirt road, I got the rear tires to scoot sideway a little when the boost came on. So anything that can do that with a 17,500lb truck has me loving it.

Besides my EGT and boost gauge.
I still need to build my gauge cluster. But I'll wait for that next weekend I'm taking a break. I stand in the sun all week in 90* 80% weather no sitting down till I go to sleep. So driving 5 hours one way and spending weekends standing on a 2" tie rod isn't the most relaxing thing to do.
But I have HPOP, Fuel pressure, oil temp, exhaust pressure I need to install.

EDIT: I don't know why some of the photos are sideways. Sorry tilt your head.
I also want to write emails at some point in time this week to tell each vender I bought from how overall happy I am with the truck. My first impression has been amazing so far.

[Power Hungry]

Thank you for the feedback. It's super helpful! Let's see if I can satisfactorily address the comments.

First, the cackle you're experiencing may very well be from residual air in the HPO rails. This would also contribute to the slow starting. I would suggest parking on a slight incline, pulling the ICP sensor on the driver's side head, and letting the system "burp". You may even try pouring just a touch of oil in the ICP port to top it off. If you're feeling froggy, you can do the passenger side as well by pulling the forward plug. This should help more quickly alleviate those issues.

As you have surmised, I toned down the fueling a little bit to address your earlier concerns of smokiness and rapid EGT rise. The higher power levels (6 & 7) should still provide a more aggressive fuel curve, if you should so desire to venture into that area. Otherwise, it's running pretty much the way I would have expected.

The only real concern at this point is the loping as you return to idle. This is often caused be a certain amount of gain being applied to the IPR control in order to achieve the ICP desired. Under load, the gain will offset the IPR a specific amount and when you return to idle, the computer need to work the gain back out. This causes that lope you're experiencing. This is indicative of weak HPOP and I would say that once you replace the HPOP, this issue should resolve itself.

We very glad that you are enjoying the setup. The pictures a cool. I really like the plenums you installed. Gives it a nice, clean look.

Keep us posted on further developments. :-)

[Absolution]

Here is a video of the lope/cackle.
I guess me clipping the video doesn't really show it. But it almost sounds like it's catching itself in person.
I'm all for replacing the HPOP if I need it, I just wish I knew that before I swapped everything over if that is what is wrong with it.
And per my comment last night, It was no where near a major lope, it was just a slight difference in sound if I cut out of the throttle fast.

https://youtu.be/bMCdeDXgBLA

EDIT: Also I am on the level 6 at the moment.

[Veedubfreak86]

What pump bracket are you using for the dual SD pump’s

[Absolution]

What pump bracket are you using for the dual SD pump’s


It's an eBay 044 dual. Some sellers let you order the thicker rubber for the thinner super duty pump. I just made the reducer from some rubber I had laying around.

Downside, it doesn't have a real mounting hole so I had to drill in the center of the bracket. It also requires the 044 check valves and some aluminum crush washers for sealing.

If I did it again I would go with a single AEM 400lpm and just keep a second one it cab.

The single AEM will support the same, if not more, than the dual super duties It requires less space and less fittings.

Only reason I originally went with duals was redundancy.

[Veedubfreak86]

I already bought dual SD pumps, but I think I will stick with the mount I already have I was just wondering, I am going to mount my filters and pumps behind the saddle tank under the truck

[Absolution]

Today I'm ordering the new clutch for the road ranger conversion.

It's a 109508-11Y it's the right model fit the t444e and dt466e flywheels, self adjusting, and extended lube intervals.

[syntaxterror]

Hi Absolution
What road ranger transmission are you going to use?

[Absolution]

Hi Absolution
What road ranger transmission are you going to use?

Any used RTLO 13 speed to be honest. Just so long as it has a sae-2 bell housing which I found a company that will find and install the correct bellhousing from their yard. The one in looking at currently is a RTLO-16713 mainly due to it having a PTO pump on it already.

I ordered a oem 206ss (FP62062RS2) bearing which im going to check and make sure it's the correct inside diameter 1.18".

I'll probably also have to get the drive shaft shortened.

There is a guy on the trucker forum who convert his dt466 to a RTO6613. His was a complete drop in from a 6plus.

Edit: if you have an automatic there is a chance it's an sae-3 bellhousing.

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

Any used RTLO 13 speed to be honest. Just so long as it has a sae-2 bell housing which I found a company that will find and install the correct bellhousing from their yard. The one in looking at currently is a RTLO-16713 mainly due to it having a PTO pump on it already.

I ordered a oem 206ss (FP62062RS2) bearing which im going to check and make sure it's the correct inside diameter 1.18".

I'll probably also have to get the drive shaft shortened.

There is a guy on the trucker forum who convert his dt466 to a RTO6613. His was a complete drop in from a 6plus.

Edit: if you have an automatic there is a chance it's an sae-3 bellhousing.


I would be interested to hear how your transmission swap goes. Also I would like to hear your thought on driving a 7.3L with a 13 speed.


I wish there was a lighter 13 speed with two or three od gears with top OD in the .61 to .65 range.

[Absolution]

Well, First trip through the hills with this set up, on the way to pick up a car.

I think I'm "decently" tuned now at least for the option available to be.
Yesterday was the first trip I got to take to and from the WV hills grossing 27k. It was probably the best trip I've ever had. Before on most of the hills I would pull down to 25mph. But this time I never dropped below 45mph. Most of the 45mph hills were because there was another truck in front of me or if it was a long hill I had to run the splitter to raise rpm to cool it down. Dropping road speed in the process since the splits between gear ratios is pretty vast on this transmission. On very long pulls it would climb slowly to 1250/1300. So nothing really terrifying and I probably could keep it up there but I'd rather not have this rig break down any time soon lol. This also leads me to believe the old AD injectors were junked even though they would pass the buzz test.

My father's house finally sold so we have to start getting stuff out. We started with his car.
Also I don't have any boost leaks or uppipe leaks. Once I get my exhaust pressure gauge hooked up I'm thinking of cranking down on the waste gate some.
Besides that do you know of any other things I could do. I thought about water/methanol, but everyone is like "you don't need that with good tuning".
I didn't even have to drive this trip. So I got to get some photos and videos.
P.s. please ignore my duct tape gauges ��. I have a piece of kydex I need to bend for them.

I've also decided when I do the transmission next year I'm also going to chop the end off frame rails and lower the bed to accept 5th wheels. Plus pull the bumper pull hitch closer to the rear axle.

[Absolution]

https://youtu.be/7zy1k29XQqw



https://youtube.com/shorts/e-nFZ1Q79D4?feature=share

[Power Hungry]

Just scooting right along! How's the fuel economy? Any noticeable difference on long hauls?

[Absolution]

Just scooting right along! How's the fuel economy? Any noticeable difference on long hauls?

It actually seemed to stay the same. So it didn't get worse at least giving how much of an improvement was made. I really think a transmission with an OD in the flat land would really raise it though. My reasoning for this is I'm watching the fuel gauge and the mountains aren't what pull it down. It's the final leg doing 2600RPM non stop when it doesn't need too.

I'm actually washing off the vehicles right now. Then I'm going to to gas station. I think I used 65-68gallons on way up. But I'll find the receipt.

[Absolution]

Alright on the way back I used 67.063 gallons probably a gallon or two less since thing go around it filled it all the way to the end of cap neck. For 461 miles

[Absolution]

Back on the road again.

[Absolution]

60 gallons this time