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Unleashedford Fri, March 5th, 2010 10:20 PM

woah wth
 
i just installed my gryphon and i have it a few days to average my MPG but its at 12-13, anyone might know why its so bad? should the intake, exhuast and gryphon help the mpg?!

88Racing Fri, March 5th, 2010 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unleashedford (Post 26662)
i just installed my gryphon and i have it a few days to average my MPG but its at 12-13, anyone might know why its so bad? should the intake, exhuast and gryphon help the mpg?!

Winter blend fuel.
Level 2 runs richer.
Give it 4 tanks to get the correct average.

Please read my sig and do as requested then maybe you might get more direct answers.

Jackpine Sat, March 6th, 2010 12:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 88Racing (Post 26664)
Winter blend fuel.
Level 2 runs richer.
Give it 4 tanks to get the correct average.

Please read my sig and do as requested then maybe you might get more direct answers.

And, I wouldn't put too much stock in the Gryphon's Fuel Econ display. Make sure your odometer is recording the distance correctly and calculate your mileage the old fashioned way at each fillup. The Gryphon display will give you "trend" information though.

- Jack

Unleashedford Sat, March 6th, 2010 04:13 PM

yeah i heard what happened and i am very sorry and my prayers be with her,

but i was just wondering if anyone would know why it would do that, im on my third tank with the gryphon

its
2004 xlt 5.4 triton supercrew, and its still showing 12-13 mpg

Longshot270 Sat, March 6th, 2010 04:32 PM

Its probably just the kind of driving your doing. Those are just a bit lower than my city average. I usually get about 13 because of stop and go traffic. Do you have any other mods like heavier tires? Also what is your stock gear ratio? You could try going into the custom options menu and lower the 3rd and 4th gear shifts and the 4th gear torque converter lock point (both lock and unlock). That might give you a small improvement. When I did that I got an extra mpg or two in the city.

88Racing Sat, March 6th, 2010 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unleashedford (Post 26755)
yeah i heard what happened and i am very sorry and my prayers be with her,

but i was just wondering if anyone would know why it would do that, im on my third tank with the gryphon

its
2004 xlt 5.4 triton supercrew, and its still showing 12-13 mpg

You need to fill out the rest of your user cp!
Just your name is there.

That's about where my mpg's are right now with the winter blend crap gas.

Longshot270 Sat, March 6th, 2010 11:41 PM

I was out testing my new off road lights and I remembered the graphs I made two weeks ago that compared the IECON with various parameters from pedal position to mph. I found that I was getting better mileage with the RPMs a little higher than I did before but only if the resulting engine load was lower. Afterwards I adjusted my driving habits and my mileage has improved a tiny bit from smarter pedal control. For my truck keeping the RPMs between 1800 to 2200 unless I was cruising got the best mileage. For cruising you just want to be in the highest gear possible to keep the RPM low. I also have a 4.6L so that favorable RPM might be lower for the 5.4L considering it is a bigger engine and has more power.

Unleashedford Mon, March 8th, 2010 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Longshot270 (Post 26757)
Its probably just the kind of driving your doing. Those are just a bit lower than my city average. I usually get about 13 because of stop and go traffic. Do you have any other mods like heavier tires? Also what is your stock gear ratio? You could try going into the custom options menu and lower the 3rd and 4th gear shifts and the 4th gear torque converter lock point (both lock and unlock). That might give you a small improvement. When I did that I got an extra mpg or two in the city.

3.53? i think

Jackpine Mon, March 8th, 2010 06:09 PM

Here's a list of OEM rear axle codes. You can find the code for your truck on your driver's door sticker.
19 = 3.55 open
H9 = 3.55 LSD
26 = 3.73 open
B6 = 3.73 LSD
27 = 3.31 open
18 = 3.08 open
25 = 4.10 open
B5 = 4.10 LSD
- Jack

Unleashedford Mon, March 8th, 2010 08:28 PM

there you go, h9 3.55

Longshot270 Mon, March 8th, 2010 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unleashedford (Post 26876)
there you go, h9 3.55

Yeah, that gear does great on the highway but not so great in the city. How many highway miles are you going through to get that average?

Like Jack mentioned earlier, the gryphon average isn't always correct. Just keep getting your average like you would without the fancy technology. Pencil and paper. That is always more accurate unless your tires are the wrong size from stock. That will throw it off too.

Unleashedford Tue, March 9th, 2010 04:40 PM

i have 35's on right now, and the mpg went up to 14.1 today but now at 13.7, i think it might be the way i drive i guess?

Longshot270 Tue, March 9th, 2010 06:14 PM

The gryphon average will change quite a bit until you have at least 30-45 minutes of driving. Is the 13-14 city, highway or a mix?

Unleashedford Tue, March 9th, 2010 07:13 PM

its a mix of both, is that good or bad?

Longshot270 Tue, March 9th, 2010 07:53 PM

Well I'm not an expert in the 5.4s because I only have a 4.6L with the 3.55 LS. Those numbers that you posted are pretty close to the same mileage I get. My daily trip may include 3-9 miles of 55 or so mph on backroads followed by about a mile or two of stop and go city driving that has about 10 lights that prefer to stay red...not to mention multiple railroad crossings but I usually beat the train. :giggle: That trip will average 13-14 regardless of my driving habits. No joke, driving nice or pedal to the metal its all the same :evillol:.

How does that compare to your driving?

JWBFX4 Tue, March 9th, 2010 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unleashedford (Post 26933)
i have 35's on right now, and the mpg went up to 14.1 today but now at 13.7, i think it might be the way i drive i guess?

I dont think you are doing to bad with having 35's on with 3:55's

Heck I have stock tires 3:73's 5.4L and I average between 13.8 and 14.7 with mix driving.

cody994x4 Wed, March 10th, 2010 03:57 PM

unleashedford, im not sure abt mpg's but i know if you were to re-gear you would have alot of restored power. the minimum reccommendation, as far as ive ever heard is at least 3.73's with 35's, 4.10 or 4.56 would be better. you will be able to get going alot easier and put your rpms back around the powerband range. im curious to what your rpms are at say 70mph with the 35ers

interesting how this plays into the mpg equation though, your tires are lowering your rpms thus saving gas...

for economy you might wanna stay where you are but im pretty sure your asking alot out of a smaller ring/pinion.

you might wanna research restored power vs economy if you were to re-gear.:hmmm:

Jackpine Wed, March 10th, 2010 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cody994x4 (Post 27030)
unleashedford, im not sure abt mpg's but i know if you were to re-gear you would have alot of restored power. the minimum reccommendation, as far as ive ever heard is at least 3.73's with 35's, 4.10 or 4.56 would be better. you will be able to get going alot easier and put your rpms back around the powerband range. im curious to what your rpms are at say 70mph with the 35ers

interesting how this plays into the mpg equation though, your tires are lowering your rpms thus saving gas...

for economy you might wanna stay where you are but im pretty sure your asking alot out of a smaller ring/pinion.

you might wanna research restored power vs economy if you were to re-gear.:hmmm:

I've "bolded" the part of your response that is most significant. The lower RPM's CAN save gas, but you've got to get there from a standing start. In his case, the bigger feet make his engine work a lot harder getting it up to speed, due to several causes:
1. A reduced "mechanical advantage" (lower effective gear ratio) due to the larger radius tires.
2. More mass to get spinning from a standstill - Newton's third law still applies.
3. More wind resistance (a minor effect, but still there).
Once at highway speeds, you're still not home free because:
1. The bigger feet weigh more and have more wind resistance - so, more fuel needed to keep them rolling.
2. They probably have more "rolling resistance" (skin friction effect with the road) so it takes more power to keep them moving.
3. Even though the engine RPMs are lower, the torque output of the engine has to be higher due to the reduced mechanical advantage. That torque has to come from somewhere, and it can only be additional fuel per cylinder charge.
So, the whole concept of power vs economy is a very complicated tradeoff. Ford's engineers actually tried to get a good compromise at the plant. It CAN be improved, but I suspect it can much more easily be made worse.

- Jack

Longshot270 Wed, March 10th, 2010 06:33 PM

Haha Jack, just as I was about to say something smart you steal my lightning. :hehe:
True the lower rpm would suggest better mileage but the other factor in fuel economy is engine load. A higher engine load can hurt your economy more than a slightly higher rpm. I actually tested it about a month ago to show a friend of mine who was thinking the same thing except he was completely convinced that putting 35s on a chevy colorado with an I4 and highway gears would get him killer mileage because of the final drive ratio.
Here is the thread that has the graphs from compiling multiple recordings using the gryphon's data log feature.
http://forum.gopowerhungry.com/conve...t-mileage.html

It is easier to turn a gear twice as many times with smaller tires than to turn a heavy set of tires for all of (and more) factors that Jack has just mentioned.

cody994x4 Wed, March 10th, 2010 08:48 PM

i agree jack i think it can much more easily be made worse. if he were to re-gear to lower, he would loose mpgs correct???
maybe in this case a fair trade off would be to go with 3.73's...but idk if id spend that kind of money to only go a tad lower.

another good point you made was wind drag. when i went from stock 31's to the 33's i noticed this...i cant look at girls driving down the road as long as i used to cause ill be in the next lane. not much of a big deal but on really windy days it is def. noticable.

also isnt it a fact that things in motion tend to stay in motion? i guess weight rules here. this is one reason i want to get off of my stock steel wheels. w 33's and the steel wheels it is hard on my brakes, esp. when towing

still curious as to what the 'ideal' set-up would be for his application...

Longshot270 Wed, March 10th, 2010 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cody994x4 (Post 27058)
i agree jack i think it can much more easily be made worse. if he were to re-gear to lower, he would loose mpgs correct???
maybe in this case a fair trade off would be to go with 3.73's...but idk if id spend that kind of money to only go a tad lower.

Depends on your driving. You may get better city mileage because stop and go traffic will be easier on the engine and transmission because of the trade for torque. The highway mileage is what will probably suffer.

another good point you made was wind drag. when i went from stock 31's to the 33's i noticed this...i cant look at girls driving down the road as long as i used to cause ill be in the next lane. not much of a big deal but on really windy days it is def. noticable.

:hehe:

also isnt it a fact that things in motion tend to stay in motion? i guess weight rules here. this is one reason i want to get off of my stock steel wheels. w 33's and the steel wheels it is hard on my brakes, esp. when towing

Yep, that is one of Newton's laws. Call me crazy but when I got a set of alloy rims I could have sworn that the truck accelerated a little faster. :notallthere:

still curious as to what the 'ideal' set-up would be for his application...
I'm just making a guesstimate based off of the pegasus gear ratio calculator and some of the common gear ratios I've seen online.
I think a good highway gear would be around a 4.56 and a good city gear would be a little higher.

In blue...

Unleashedford Wed, March 10th, 2010 10:11 PM

woah im gone for 1 day and a lot of conversation goes on lol

but when im at about 70mph my rpm is also at 2000 maybe like 1950 or 1900

and this whole re-gear thing, do i do it from the gryphon settings or do i need to open up the rear differential and chance the gears in there?

88Racing Wed, March 10th, 2010 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unleashedford (Post 27064)
woah im gone for 1 day and a lot of conversation goes on lol

but when im at about 70mph my rpm is also at 2000 maybe like 1950 or 1900

and this whole re-gear thing, do i do it from the gryphon settingsor do i need to open up the rear differential and chance the gears in there?

Both
or the custom tunes can be set to the new gear.

Longshot270 Wed, March 10th, 2010 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unleashedford (Post 27064)
but when im at about 70mph my rpm is also at 2000 maybe like 1950 or 1900

and this whole re-gear thing, do i do it from the gryphon settings or do i need to open up the rear differential and chance the gears in there?

To regear you have to physically change the axle gears. Then, like 88Racing said, you go into the gryphon settings and put in the new gear ratio so that the pcm will keep the shifts where they need to be. I'm not sure if your gear ratio or something is set right because if your 70 mph rpm sits around 2000 and you have the 3.55 differential then your rolling on 29-30's not 35s.:giggle: Is your speedometer/odometer accurate? My truck has stock tires (with about 6.5% squish) and 3.55 LS axle.

But if that is what your getting then just leave the physical gears alone. About 2000 rpm @ 70mph is pretty much stock.

Unleashedford Thu, March 11th, 2010 02:03 PM

i think my speed meter is off my like 5-10mph and im sure i have 35's on my truck lol

88Racing Thu, March 11th, 2010 02:09 PM

What's the tire size?

Peace!:)

Longshot270 Thu, March 11th, 2010 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unleashedford (Post 27109)
i think my speed meter is off my like 5-10mph and im sure i have 35's on my truck lol

Yup, 5-10 off definitely sounds like you just might be running 35s. :hehe:

To correct that go to the gryphon and go into the custom options menu next time you reprogram and check your tire size. It is probably somewhere around 2300-2400 mm. If it is try a number around 2800. If you have a GPS go by odometer readings for the most accuracy. (Truck odometer divided by GPS odometer then that multiplied by the current tire size) Dont forget to load the previous settings, even if you havent made any changes. It's a good habit to start. :thumbs up yellow:

Unleashedford Thu, March 11th, 2010 02:59 PM

285/55/22 something like that they are 34.86, but shouldnt i just wait until i get my custom tunes from bill?

Longshot270 Thu, March 11th, 2010 03:18 PM

You can wait but I figure why drive around until then with the speedometer and odometer messed up when you can fix it now. You can just reprogram the same tune you are on but with the corrected tire size. Having the wrong tire size will also mess up the mileage that the gryphon displays because the truck doesn't realize that it is going faster than it really is. Your shift points and stuff will also be back to where they were meant to be.

88Racing Thu, March 11th, 2010 03:41 PM

I'm with longshot on this one too.
Doesn't make any sense to leave like that until custom tunes come. You have the tool to correct it so why not just use it?
:shrug:

Peace!:)

Unleashedford Thu, March 11th, 2010 04:05 PM

so how do i do it exactly?

88Racing Thu, March 11th, 2010 04:40 PM

To understand the custom option menu read this.
http://forum.gopowerhungry.com/faqs-....html#post9248
Your tires 285/55R22
Calculate to 2740mm
With 3.5% squish taken out is.
(2644mm) try this number.
The gryphon uses millimeters.
Also make sure to use the right gear ratio.
Hope this helps.

Peace!:)


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