Fix it now...before it breaks?
 

So I am thinking about doing the egr delete, oil cooler/screen, stc fitting, turbo feed and drain tubes, updated fpr assembly, 6.4 banjo bolts, dummy plugs, stand pipes, recondition the turbo and anything else that needs to be addressed while in that deep. Here is the question. The eot and ect are in spec, there is really no need to do them until they prove otherwise. But the stc and dummy plugs can go at any time. So since I will be doing the work, labor is $0. If something goes while towing the TT, I am at the mercy of the local shop/dealer. I have already swapped out the gold for ELC and have a coolant filter, so with the above items, I should be good for a long time, right? The truck is an 06 with 33,500.

Head studs?

Not quite that ambitious/foolish to try that myself. I know my limits. Besides if I take care of the issues that cause the heads to blow.....they won't.:cheesy smile: Famous last words.

If it were mine I would do the studs and EGR delete before anything else........but not everyone has access to a shop whenever they need it.

EGR delete will be a HUGE help, but wont cure what the 6 ohhs got.

:D

I agree with Dave, with one addition....you need to do the STC fitting as well your working on borrowed time there.

Until I have to, studs are on the back burner. All the rest is hopefully in the future. To replace the standpipes the valve covers have to come off? I read somewhere you need to jack up the pass side to get the cover off. Is that right? On a level of 1-10, how tough is it to tear it down that far to do the stc, egr delete, oil cooler, dummy plugs, standpipes, ect. Any special tools? Won't be doing this until it warms up, so I have time to ask questions, research, gather the items, tools, and get the confidence to tear into it.

Pulling the valve covers does not require jacking the engine up, just some patients and a bit of wiggling.:) A 12mm - 1/4 drive - wobbly will make this task much easier.

To replace the standpipes the covers do have to come off, but the HPO rail can stay. There is a 10 or 12mm allen that holds them down, once you remove the fitting the pipe might come along with it - or you might have to dig it out with some needle nose pliers. Dummy plug is the same, just in the front of the rail - and no pipe attached.

If you have never worked on a 6 ohh before, and are fairly mechanically inclined....I would rate the work you are looking at doing a 6-7 on the skill/ patience level. If you have spent some time under the hood of a leaker, its just another job.:thumbs up yellow: