Hard Start FICM?
 

I have an 2003 Excursion with a 6.0. I have had hard starting for a couple of months and then it just dies. I replaced the glow plugs, GPCM and thought I had resolved the problem, when it died on the road. I could nurse it along at 20 MPH or so and got back home. I took the fuel pump center apart and the fuel swith fell apart in my hand. I replaced the fuel pump, even though I had just replaced all the filters, and it started right up. I was about 45 minutes down the road and the truck dies again.

I pull the FICM and the power harness plug ( there are a power and 2 injector plugs behind the FICM) falls aprts. I replace the plug (not the harness and this harness is tight what a pain) and 2 wires break and have to repair those. I reinstall the FICM and nothing.

I presume that the harness and maybe the FICM need replacing. I was going to pull the FICM and try the solder fix from the dieselstop.com forum, but I thought I would post here. I fiured that if I had to replace the FICM, I would see if PHP could reflash the FICM rather than the FORD flash. However, I am running a Banks 6 gun.

Help... I need my truck.

Ford wants almost $500 for the harness and $800 for the FICM.

SCOTT

We can definitely reflash a FICM for you. Bill just got done updating the updated (redundant, I know) flash that he is using for the FICMs. The charge is $150. It can be a hit or miss kind of deal as we are seeing a lot of problems with older injectors and "sticktion".

Swamps Diesel ( Swamp's Diesel Performance ) actually rebuilds FICMs.

So, I presume that I need to send it to Swamps first? Then will they install your flash, or do you need to install it?

Speotter,

First, pull that little cover off the FICM (held on by 2 screws), and with the key on, engine off, check the voltage at the FICM. There are 4 screws (or 7 depending on year of truck). Here is a link to a reference to measure a 4 terminal FICM

Testing FICM power supply voltage.pdf

If you have the 7 screw (probably do on a 2003 if original), a quick search on google will get you the info you need regarding which pin is which for voltage probing. I found a quick pic and attached it below, but it is a mirror image of what you'll see through the port (looking from back side of board)

If there is no voltage there, I'd say your problem is purely the harness. If there is some voltage, but it is low (like in 30's), then you can probably say it is FICM needing repair.

I've seen injector harnesses on ebay in the $110 range, and if that is the problem (likely since you said the plugs fell apart), that is something you can do yourself fairly easily. (note, That was only for the harness from FICM to the injectors, not from truck harness into FICM)

good luck.

Eric

Do what Eric suggested first. If it does need a rebuild, then yes, Swamps can install the reflash for you after they rebuild it.

FICM
 

So I checked the voltage and the FICM was totally dead. As if the key was off (but I had in on).

When I took off the FICM several wires broke right at the connector (engine side). So I bought a replacement wiring harness. Everything of course had to come off first. All the air tubes, fan and shroud, alternator, belt tensioner, both batteries, the list goes on.

I took off the old harness. Compared to the new harness, the pieces were all the same, but the locations were all slightly different. I could not get the last plug off the rear of the AC unit, so I spliced in the new harness to the old wire. It was odd, because it was a shielded cable (2 wire with ground and foil shield).

I put everything back together. Checked the voltage on the FICm and everything read great. Both batteries, fully charged and reading 12.86 v.

I turn on the key (hadn't been running for 6 weeks), crank the engine and the baby fires right up. Man, did that feel good. I let it idle while I finished buttoning it up, topped the fluids, etc. Then I noticed a couple of clamps were pointed up and poking into the hood insulation, so I turned off the engine and repositioned the clamps.

I went to start it again and nothing, dead as a doornail. not even any idiot lights, no cranking, nothing.

I waited a minute and it cranked right up, as though brand new. I took it for a test drive and it ran great. Took it on the freeway. Got it up to 85-90, just to clean the gunk out.

Parked it and went to drive it an hour later and dead, nothing, like the batteries were out. Except that when you turned the key off after trying to start (no cranking), you heard a clicking sound, like a fuel pump that was releasing pressure.

So is this a sign that the FICM is dead? Why wouldn't it crank? Or did Ford give me the wrong harness? When it was running it ran great and never faltered, so I doubt a bad connection. I was very careful to make sure that every connector had a solid connection and "clicked" into position.

It actually installed very nicely (except that connector that was at the rear of the AC that I could not get to-no clue what you would do if you ever had to actually work on the AC compressor).

Anybody with any ideas out there?

SCOTT

Speotter,

If you turn on the key and don't even get idiot lights, it wouldn't be FICM related, but more likely you have something loose in the wiring from the harness swap. It would seem to be pure bad luck to have a problem with the ignition switch or main relays happen at the exact same time as a major wire harness replacement, but that could also happen (depending on how many locations the harness was broken into for the replacement, and what wires the bundle was carrying where).

Eric

I am wondering if the wiring harness was an incorrect one, whether the main relays would shut down, rather than cause a fire. The harness only connects to the battery on the passenger side and the ECM and 2 connectors on the driver side, all plug and play. Hard to misconnect as the plugs are all unique and keyed.

I did check it today and the dome light doesn't even come on when you open the doors. Door locks and remote open do not work either. I haven't put a voltmeter on the batteries yet.

Does the FICM have a relay or just a fuse? I'm thinking its a relay, but not sure. Might want to check that out, symptoms sound like a relay going bad and not actuating every time.