All the programmers (Gryphon, Evolution, CS, and CTS) have the capability to read the P1000. The question is whether or not the P1000 DTC has been disabled in the calibration. In most cases, the P1000 was shut off to avoid the annoyance of the DTC and also prevent unnecessary tech calls about what the P1000 DTC was. However, this does not affect the system self tests for the OBDII monitors. Those will continue to function as normal, so if the monitors continue to come back as "Not Ready" then there is a problem with one or more emissions related systems.

I will say that performing a drive cycle to reset the monitors can be extremely difficult. There are very specific guidelines that need to be adhered to and sometimes it can take days of driving to get the monitors to clear. With specific fuel levels, temperatures, drive speeds and drive cycles that need to be met, it can be quite a pain. I do think that after 500 miles of driving, if the system hasn't cleared itself then there really is a problem with the vehicle. Unfortunately, OBDII monitors aren't something that can be forced, faked, or bypassed.

Take care.

Bill, my comment about the P1000 code was based on my NEVER seeing it when returning the truck to stock while I was still using my old Gryphon. And yes, I looked for it. :shrug: But, it showed up at stock when I started using the CTS. And, as you say, it certainly did not clear quickly when the truck was at stock either.

- Jack

Bill, that helps alot... I'll see what happens tomorrow as I'm taking a long drive, if that fails I will follow their guidelines on drive cycle on stock tune and see if I can possibly get rid of it.

J&J, They plug into my OBD port and they take my gas cap off, but it failed before they did anything to my gas cap. I can't recall if they put a tube over it when I first bought it or not? So I can't be sure.

Oh, and the EPA mandate for OBD 2 vehicles and the EVAP system requires the fuel level to be between 85% and 15%...so you have a wider fuel level window than what the emission shop told you.

Just a little information.

If getting rid fo the drive cycle code is so strict, I need to try to find a road that I can actually do everything correctly. Not to many places I can do certain speeds for long periods of times like it says. Or 0-60s, back to 40s, OD off, ect ect.

That's the problem. I've had to fight for days to on some vehicles to get the OBD test monitors to complete. Others will seem to do it just driving to the grocery store. It's really weird.

Your right it's wack.

Lastnight I bought a sub and amp, well we hooked it up, and unplugged the battery. Todays last day til registration expired. I read the paper on passing drive cycle, and did everything but all the 0-60, coast to 40, ect ect... went to ADEQ, hooked me up and it said I was ready! So about 2 hours of driving and around 100 miles it was ready. Went to emissions, PASSED! COMPLETE.

Now the next problem..................... downloading custom tunes.

Got home, plugged it in, download tune 2 - 87 Perf tune. Went through the 1-4 step, then writing checksum files.. ect ect.. did the 1-4 again about alerts and records.. got to turn key off, turn key on, did that and it froze at that. Unplugged, plugged back in, said session failed and restore stock settings. Did so, redownloaded tune 2 and it went through everything and completed, now it's on tune 2. Turned truck off. Did a few things.. came back and turned truck on to go for a drive and Gryphons screen went black. This has happened many times, it's usually the fuse... I replaced the fuse, nothing... put another 1 in just to see. Nothing... with the fuse out, for some weird reason the Gryphons screen came on, but it wasn't good. It showed my 4 parameter boxes, and bottom 2 was very out of pixel, and it showed like -173.0 in both boxes, it was weird. Or -17.30 whatever that means then screen went blank. Tried another fuse.. NOTHING. Now it's black. It came BACK on without a fuse and went off.

I want to say somethings wrong with the device itself? Cause all my fuses are brand new. And it usually just turns back on. I'll retry it in a while. Let it settle... but now what could be the problem? Would you consider trading this old style for a CS and I pay the difference? Is the software in the new CS's better?

Went back out, unplugged it, plugged it back in, screen came on. Read my HEX file and started...

Now the sceen now works.. Weird.

I'd have to say it's a connection issue with either the plug on the back of the device or with where it connects to the OBDII port. Unfortunately, I don't have any way to reuse the device or we'd find some way give you credit against a CS or CTS. I know Edge was offering some sort of upgrade credit, but not sure if they still have that. When I get back to the office, I can check with Edge and see if they're still offering anything.

Glad everything else got straightened out with the emissions testing.

Take care.

Alright thanks.