intake and exhaust
 

Hey all again,
So I am thinking of modding the intake and exhaust first in my truck, I like the zoodad mod, and I am looking for info on what filter and possible intake modifications I should do. I mainly want towing power and gas mileage, and as much of both as possible :cheesy smile:.
The other question is what exhaust should I do? I have read about a few options, larger everything, straight pipes, stacks going up through the bed, which of these would be the most benefitial for what I want?
I have seen the phrase "down pipe" is that basically the first piece of the exhaust after the turbo that goes down to the muffler? and what are up-pipes? those go to and from the intercooler?
Again thanks for the help!

The best filter for the money: Tymar. Google is your friend!

Exhaust?
On a budget---straight through muffler on factory pipe.
Money no object---any 4" system. Go with stainless if they salt your roads. Big fan of Diamond Eye. Look up Little Power Shop in the vendor section.

"Downpipe". Yes, from turbocharger turbine outlet to transmission crossmember.
"Up pipes". From exhaust manifolds to turbine inlet.

Don't expect any mileage gains or appreciable power increases from an aftermarket intake or exhaust.

Based on our phone conversation, I think I will stick with the stock intake and exhaust for now, but I am wondering what upgrade to do. When I get the money, I would like either the phoenix or FU chip or a CS. I like the price of the phoenix, the changability of the FU, but I really like and think I need the guages of the CS. If I got the phoenix or the FU chip I would probably get an edge insight so I could have good guages, but that costs quite a bit more which makes the CS make more sense.
What is everyone's opinion on these? Thanks! :D

i just had a 5" exhaust installed on my truck. i did the muffler delete, wow that was a mistake cause the drone is crazy. i will be putting the muffler back on. i have no complaints other than that about the system and im waiting for my truck to get back out the shop to install my tymar intake.
if your going to chip your truck you might need to free up the intake and exhaust some to keep egts in check maybe.
maybe someone with more knowledge will chime in, good luck with what ever route you choose :thumbs up yellow:

I would get the chip and a set of gauges.

The CS is a real nice unit, but not as nice as having the ability to switch tunes on the fly. Also the mounting options for the CS in the Superdutys is kinda lame, none seem to have a clean appearance.

Thanks for the responses, the reason for not doing the intake/exhaust upgrades yet is because when I talked with Cody on the phone, he indicated that for the minor upgrades that I am looking at, they are not extremely benefitial. I understand the decrease in EGT's is very good to have, and I will eventually end up doing the exhaust, probably a 4" turbo back, but if I get the EGT guage with just a tuner I shouldnt have any problems as long as I am observant. :D
Keep the inputs coming, I like what I have heard so far :cheesy smile:

Yes Cody will get you in the right direction.

I had an EGT probe go bad, so instead of buying another $50 probe that will last a year, I'm going to buy an Interceptor gauge. It's kind of like a gauge with a limited function of Auto Enginuity. It can display estimated EGT temps or you can buy a probe and hook it into an aux port in the back of the gauge. Check it out....

"Power Stroke edition including bidirectional controls for injector buzz and cylinder are included in standard version."


Aeroforce Technology Inc | Products - Interceptor Ford Order

What he said, it's real nice to let off the throttle & click the switch & keep on going.

Estimated EGT? :shrug: I looked at the page (admittedly, I didn't spend a lot of time looking), but couldn't find this information. I would LOVE to know how they estimate that since if it is offered, it's likely a calculation of mass fuel, RPM, and time. That sucks if you have larger injectors because that throws the mass fuel stuff right out the window. I'd hate to risk my engine relying on a calculation when it's cheap to buy an actual sensor that will tell me exactly how high my exhaust gas temperature is.

In addition (and hate me all you want for saying this, but it's my opinion and we all have one), the layperson should not have access to tests that they don't understand. I'm not targeting you, but for 99% of the people out there who buy diagnostic equipment just to run "buzz tests" and "contribution tests" without knowing what they're looking at/for, only leads to lots of frustration of changing out #3 and #8 injector repeatedly because they always come up bad. That's small beans compared to throwing in a new set of injectors because a certain cylinder came up in the contribution test....only to find out after thousands of dollars that the cylinder in question simply had a broken rocker arm.

It also amazes me how much bad information comes out of having the ability to do a "buzz test". Easy example: White smoke due to unburned fuel with a rough idle CANNOT be diagnosed with a buzz test. Besides, those symptoms CANNOT be caused by an open or shorted electrical connection between the IDM and the injector. People will have other folks chase their tails for DAYS suggesting a "buzz test" for a concern like this. "Oh, check your valve cover harness".....no, that will not help you locate your problem in that case.

Now that I'm done venting, HATE ON!!!!!!

:cheesy smile: