Tue, April 10th, 2012, 08:38 AM
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God & Guns
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Rogersville, AL / Currently in Pollock, LA
Posts: 307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cleatus12r
Because you don't have the negative battery hooked up, some of the circuits/accessories that are on the constant (non-keyed) power side of the truck WILL conduct B+ voltage all the way through.
Since the volt meter draws VERY LITTLE current, you WILL see battery voltage regardless while doing a VOLTAGE DROP TEST (which is what you're doing; even if not on purpose) because the positive voltage doesn't just say, "Gee, I guess I'd be trespassing on Negative's property if I actually went through this circuit since he's not here.....".
Seriously, if your ASE mechanic buddies don't know anything about voltage drop tests (or theory), they better stick to tire rotations.
Edit:
I'm not trying to come across as a jerk, but why in the world are you chasing something that is not a problem?I understand you are not being a jerk. In my head it is a problem just because I don't understand. I am understanding a little bit more now...just trying to wrap my head around it. I really wish I had someone in person that could explain it to me, hands on. Hands on experience always beats text book experience. I've accpeted that everything is as it should be. It just bugs me to not know why...
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01 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/3.73/315-75-16/Aeroforce Interceptor/BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/4" turbo back exhaust/CCV Mod/DIY 6637/FPR Shimmed to 65 PSI/TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40T WITH Whsiper tune, 80DD, 100R, 140Ex, 140SS)/Replaced and Cleaned EBPS & Tube 4-6-12/Zoodad mod/Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Cowl Hood/HPx
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