Thread: Little help..
View Single Post
  #2  
Old Fri, January 8th, 2010, 06:17 PM
cleatus12r's Avatar
cleatus12r cleatus12r is offline
F Your Yankee Blue Jeans
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Somewhere in Montana
Posts: 3,063
cleatus12r is a name known to allcleatus12r is a name known to allcleatus12r is a name known to allcleatus12r is a name known to allcleatus12r is a name known to allcleatus12r is a name known to all
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post
Couple questions here..

First I Got a low end ticking sound, That I fear might be related to my exhaust leaks, But Im not sure..
I only hear it between 1300-1800RPM or so normally when the turbo is not lit
I've got about 3 leaks in the exhaust, one in the welds on the downpipe, 1 in the welds from the downpipe to mid section, And another one to the Y for my duals..I want to chew out the guy I had weld it, But I dont think that will get me any where.. The only exhaust leaks you will hear that will create a ticking sound will be from the exhaust manifolds to the turbo and a really distinct tick will come from the exhaust manifold/head mating surface. A downpipe or downstream leak will cause more of a rumble noise.

Anybody think this could be the culprit for the lowend sounds..? I still can make 26lbs boost with my AD code's and superduty turbo
But this sound is driving me nuts.. Without hearing it, it's hard to say what it is for sure but usually a small exhaust leak at the exhaust manifold won't cause many boost issues.

Second question, How does one perform a compression test? a true one, not with a scanner, This would tell me for sure if my engine was tired/dusted correct? and in return guide me to look for a new engine and stop throwing money at this thing.. A true compression test is performed with a pressure gauge and an adapter that screws into each glow plug hole under the valve covers. The engine should be warm and then all glow plugs removed. The gauge should monitor each "hole" for about 7-10 (depending on who you ask but no less than 5) compression strokes on that cylinder. You WILL be able to tell when that cylinder comes up on compression as long as you have all of the glow plugs out. Oh, and be sure to kill the injector driver module before cranking so you don't fill your cylinders with fuel.

3rd, I decided to pull the ICP sensor thinking maybe it was bad and could be apart of my problems( I still throw a P1211) under WOT this is with a 17* pump, and my AD's
It did change Idle for a second, So I assume its still working properly ?? got a CEL, also Set my fuel filter light off, which I have plugged
Seem like normal operation ? The idle will change for a second as the ICP stabilizes at an estimated (based on IPR duty cycle) 725 PSI. As for your fuel filter light, that's beyond me.

Mahalo for any advice
-Patch

See replies in red.
__________________
Tuning, flashing, burning chips, and repairing all aspects of 7.3L Powerstrokes.
SEVEN 7.3L-powered vehicles in the driveway. Two didn't come that way from the factory!
Reply With Quote