I've tried to read through everything before I started asking...... honest.
The truck and mods so far:
2000 with 101,000 miles, all services documented by original owner.
Gauges so far: tranny temp, pyro with probe installed after turbo(it's where it was installed prior to the 4" dp, I've heard this position will give readings 200* on the cool side?)
Readin post turbo numbers can vary a lot, depends on how much boost you are making. I would relocate to the manifold, Boost. I'd like to add: true engine coolant gauge, as well as monitor fuel, oil pressure and temp, rear end temp. Does the gryphon support add on sensors for any of this?4R100, remote mount tranny cooler with fan, external filtration as well.
4.88 rear running 245/70R19.5 tires for better stability as well as a slight rpm drop for the freeway. (4.30 gears coming once my buddy sources a carrier)
Engine:
I've done a 4" dp/and exhaust with a flow through muffler that exits just in front of passenger tire. (couldn't get mandrel bent system to exit behind tire due to the air ride suspension)
Warmup valve delete(housing was leaking oil)
High pressure oil crossover line.
203* thermostat
Engine coolant bypass filtration
I haven't done the intake air heater delete, some say do, some say it's not enough restriction to matter?
Fuel pressure regulator bump to 75 psi
Tad bit too high. Here is what Bob from Diesel O-rings has to say about shimming the FPR>>> The FPR is located on the left side of the fuel bowl and the return line to the tank is connected to it. The poppet and associated sleeve that it travels in are the internal working parts of the regulator. Wear of the poppet and more so, the aluminum sleeve it travels in and out of is the cause of most fuel pressure problems. The poppet will begin to stick in the sleeve, sometimes open (low fuel pressure) sometimes closed (high fuel pressure). High fuel pressure will cause a loss of fuel mileage but only if it exceeds 70 psi (rule of thumb), the pump is capable of developing well over 100psi. Low fuel pressure can cause rapid internal injector wear along with the pistons and cylinders walls overheating (loss of cooling effect by not having the proper fuel spray pattern on the pistons.)
will be done by the weekend.
The rest of the fuel system is stock, future upgrade to FASS possible if it will help with fuel economy/longevity of engine?
I just read some bad things about FASS. I did hear good things about Airdog...as far a longevity. A FRx may be all that you need
Wicked wheel upgrade going in Tuesday to help the turbo "flutter" that showed up after the 4" exhaust and S&B air Intake.
I would go with another filter set-up such as the 6637 or Tymar. Those name brand filters like that (especially oiled filters) flow too much air and let debris in
So far, using a borrowed Predator I've been able to hit 17.6 mpg with an empty truck, no towing. MPG calculations run off of true gps miles using same station/same pump for every top off.
Mileage was the same using the 100 horse and 85 horse program, neither of which could use when towing heavy I know, just shooting for highest mpg's when empty.
I've got my engine oil sample kits and will start a regular testing program to monitor engine internals.
My main questions:
1. What other modifications can be done to help with mpg's/engine longevity?
You're doing pretty good for a 550. I think single shot injectors, propane, water/meth, and some other modifications others can chime in
2. Since my buddy won't let me keep his predator forever and I don't care for flashing my truck when I want/need to change settings. What tunes/programmer should I look at getting?
Since you already have gauges, you may just want a chip? If you're staying stock as far as injectors and turbo for a while, I'd say the Phoenix. But if you want access to being able to have different selection of tunes available at any time, go for the FU
If I've left out any vital info let me know?
Thanks
Jeff