First 'write-up' on a coolant flush plus a few misc things. In my mind its one of the top things to do to a 6.0. I went with
Restore coolant flush from Fleetguard. Fleetguard also offers a
Restore Plus. Restore is geared for cleaning silicate gel and oil/grease/fuel, while Restore Plus is geared for rust, scale, and solder bloom.(taken from brochure
here)
To start with, drain the coolant. There is a radiator drain on the lower left side of the radiator, fairly self explainatory, loosen to drain. It would be a good idea to take out the block drain for on the left side of the block(the right side is pretty much covered by the starter). The drain can be removed using an 8mm allen. Block drain is pictured below.
Next, the Restore can be added to the cooling system, 1 gallon per 10 gallons of coolant capacity, I found a capacity of 27.5 qts including recovery tank. Fill remaining with water.
Turn the heater control to full heat to allow max coolant flow through heater core.
Run the engine at normal operating temperature for 2 hours(note, not recommended to leave coolant cleaner in system for more than 3 hours).
Drain coolant system, radiator and block, and flush with tap water, change coolant filter if installed. Flush more if desired. I did a couple times.
Fill system with appropriate coolant and mixture, a lot say to go with an extended life coolant but I didn't feel it was necessary, I went with a coolant meeting Ford spec.
While I letting coolant drain the first time, I did a few other things. The CAC pipes came with insulation, I had a hunch they might be holding more than what Ford designed them for, and I was right.
Factory insulation, so purdy
After a little peeling back, not so purdy.
So I pulled off all the insulation and with a few minutes at the wire wheel on the bench grinder and they were looking pretty good. I didn't have time to paint, since I was wanting to finish the coolant flush.
Lucky or not, I'm not sure yet, but I got a dual alternator equiped truck. Right side CAC tube reminds me of the OBS downpipe, although not quite as bad.
I also spent some time wiping all the grease of the boots and washed off the clamps as well. Amazing what difference it made for underhood looks with the minor amout of time it took.
Since I had the air filter out and CAC tubes as well. I found easy access to the EBP sensor. It can be removed with 1" or 25mm wrench or socket.
After making sure the pipe to manifold was clean I looked in the EBP sensor as well. Yeah it was dirty. I did my best to get it cleaned out, will probably go with a new one sometime.
Next up. Either going after just either EGR delete and exhaust manifold leak or a 'complete solution.'