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Old Tue, May 11th, 2010, 10:06 PM
Pocket Pocket is offline
Bacon King
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Parker, CO
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Well I tried those parameters and increased the time to delay the lockup on the 4-3 shift with no luck. It just refuses to unlock the torque converter when it downshifts. The only change that I saw was that the jarring was slightly less if I was completely off the pedal, and it almost downshifted smoothly (just not quite as smooth as I wanted, still a bit of jarring). The problem that still remains is that if I'm going uphill, and have my foot very lightly on the pedal (light enough that it's registering the pedal is applied, but not enough to maintain speed going up a steep hill), the jarring is still extremely harsh. So for that scenario, it made no difference at all.

Just to note, that second scenario with the pedal lightly applied has always had a much harsher downshift, even with my old tunes. So I'm guessing that it's something to do with the TNAA7 based tuning.

I also tried the other suggestion you gave Cody, by raising the unlock speed in 3rd, but that results in a big RPM drop when shifting into 4th as the torque converter re-locks, and I'm stuck lugging the engine going uphill.

If there's any more suggestions, I'm open to try them. Right now I seem to have hit a brick wall, and can't find a way around it, other than disabling the clutch coast function like it is in stock VDH2 tuning. But I really would like to have a working downshift solution for this. Reason being is that up in the mountains, some of the roads wind around quite a bit, so if I'm at a lower speed and let off the pedal without a working downshift, the engine just coasts until I re-apply the pedal, and I'm stuck with lag as I'm waiting for the RPM's to climb and turbo to spool back up. It really does make a difference, as the turbo seems to light up quicker if the RPM's are kept up at least a little bit more.

Altitude sucks for tuning, makes things much more difficult
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