Thread: Which CPS
View Single Post
  #10  
Old Sun, February 12th, 2012, 07:07 PM
rammertide07 rammertide07 is offline
God & Guns
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Rogersville, AL / Currently in Pollock, LA
Posts: 307
rammertide07 is on a distinguished road
Default

Here's a recent post on TDS, I think this is well explained. I may just be a grey cps hatred like guys that have had bad luck with Ford trucks are Ford haters.

Quote:
Originally Posted by van_350sd View Post
What type of CPS Cam Position Sensor do you have?

The old, original Black units are the best, the International
1825899C93 that were manufactured around 2000 to 2003.

The new Ford/IH Gray or blue units suck, they have about 1/8"
of plastic covering the hall sensor and they are not centered,
they are off-center almost 1/8" throwing the timing way off
giving high EGT's and poor fuel economy.

Here is a new IH Blue CPS, I cut the end plastic off that was 1/8" thick
and put silicone around the sensor. Notice how the sensor is off set?

Here is a photo of a Borg Warner CPS that has a much better hall sensor,
USA made and it's centered. I cut them all open to inspect what type each
sensor uses and if they were centered or off-set.


Here is the old stock "the best" CPS from 2000 NOS stock, notice the sensor is centered and there is no plastic covering the sensor.



Here is a pic of a CPS 'Air Gap' instrument, it measures the gap.
Some engines need to be shimmed the 466 for instance, and even the
7.3L works better with 1 or 2 shims sometimes. Depends on the type of
CPS you are using. If you don't have this 300.00+ instrument you can simply
add a single shim to your CPS and see how it runs. You may or may not notice a difference without software ie: AutoEnginuity. My Van seems to be dialed-in using one shim with an old, original Black CPS.


Here is a pic of how many CPS I tested and cut open.

The CPS is specified at about 18#s ft. torque to install it.

This is the one most sensitive, important parts of the vehicle
that will either make it run like a vette or a ****box.


When you look at this pic notice the cam sensor counts the teeth
as the wheel spins, it counts the smallest tooth between 5-6 (It's so small you cannot write on it) and the largest
tooth at 11 and this thing is spinning like crazy. This is responsible for the timing, fuel delivery, amount of fuel etc. So the new CPS that have the 1/8" of plastic covering the hall sensor are already at a disadvantage. The CPS has a magnetic hall sensor and it counts the teeth. It needs to count them perfectly.

On the old, original Black CPS the magnetic hall sensor has such a strong magnet you can pick up small metal objects with it, like a small key, or large nail clippers etc. I noticed the stronger the magnetic signal, the better the CPS can count the teeth correctly thus giving you optimum performance.

the new Blue or gray CPS from Ford/IH have such a weak magnetic strength due to the 1/8" plastic covering the sensor and the fact the sensor is off-set from center, it's wasting so much fuel and causing high EGT's.



To sum it up,

If you have one of the new CPS units in your truck, try to either get a new Borg Warner black unit or an old International 1825899C93.

When you call IH to get this part#, it will refer you to the new CPS
that is the poor design. You will need to get an old stock unit.

And the Borg Warner BWD unit only has about 1/32" of thin plastic
covering the end cap on the hall sensor and it's only blocking the signal a little bit. But you can still cut the end off with a dremmil tool like I did to expose the hall sensor and the unit will work 100% this way as nothing is blocking the magnetic hall sensor itself.

I tried to explain this in easy way, but it's much more complex.

The CPS is really the brain & heart of the truck put together.


I tried over 15 CPS units in my van, and I found one old stock unit
that had the best magnetic strength and it made the van run great.
I get 18-20 on a 80HP tune at 67 mph 1886 rpm or about.


Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk
__________________
01 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/3.73/315-75-16/Aeroforce Interceptor/BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/4" turbo back exhaust/CCV Mod/DIY 6637/FPR Shimmed to 65 PSI/TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40T WITH Whsiper tune, 80DD, 100R, 140Ex, 140SS)/Replaced and Cleaned EBPS & Tube 4-6-12/Zoodad mod/Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Cowl Hood/HPx

Last edited by rammertide07; Sun, February 12th, 2012 at 07:19 PM.
Reply With Quote