added UD pulley's, need to change anything?

[88Racing]

http://www.f150online.com/forums/oth...ml#post3766103

Ok, so what was the ticking sound?
Was it something that wasn't connected correctly and wore off or broke?
I see you got them from troyer, good choice!
When the fan was removed no wires got accidently yanked on? Twisted?
Worst case scenario on going to the dealer the truck may go into a limp home mode but if it hasn't by now I wouldn't worry about it. Just drive real easy.


Lars

[th3godf4th3r]

im not sure was the ticking sound was, i went and re-torque'd the crankshaft pulley and it seemed to be fine.


the wires might have been yanked but seem to be just fine. i cleared the DTC's and started the engine and couple times and they never came back one but we will see once i drive it a distance.

the truck should be fine, i drove it this morning about 30 miles with the ticking and all and it was just fine.


it only needs to last until i get the e-fans which hopefully the part troyer is waiting for to make the kit gets in tomorrow, so hopefully i will have them late next week.

everything seems to be fine, radio, a/c, no overheating etc etc. not sure if i need to change the idle RPM's higher or lower or not, they seem to be fine at 65. why would be a reason to lower or raise them?

[th3godf4th3r]

while im at it getting answers here, i noticed after buttoning everything back up that this little tube was loose. it connects to the front left brake and goes up to the rear ABS pump i believe. i cant seem to see anything it connects to.

can anybody check on this in their truck

[427R ROUSH]

i think its for the vent to the front axle

[88Racing]

Like 427R roush said. Look on top of the diff casing.

Hopefully the efans come in real soon!

Lars

[88Racing]

Originally Posted by th3godf4th3r

im not sure was the ticking sound was, i went and re-torque'd the crankshaft pulley and it seemed to be fine.


the wires might have been yanked but seem to be just fine. i cleared the DTC's and started the engine and couple times and they never came back one but we will see once i drive it a distance.

the truck should be fine, i drove it this morning about 30 miles with the ticking and all and it was just fine.


it only needs to last until i get the e-fans which hopefully the part troyer is waiting for to make the kit gets in tomorrow, so hopefully i will have them late next week.

everything seems to be fine, radio, a/c, no overheating etc etc. not sure if i need to change the idle RPM's higher or lower or not, they seem to be fine at ((65.?)) why would be a reason to lower or raise them?

What do you mean by 65? Rpm's?

You don't want the voltage below 13.0 for long periods of time.
Try this:while the truck is running at normal idle turn on your voltage pid.
Then turn on everything you can think of. It drops to 12.0-12.3 with the truck in D and brakes on!
Now add in efans and you want to boost your idle some more 100+rpms(from original stock idle).

Lars

[Jackpine]

Originally Posted by Sburn

Ford changed stuff on the engine fans, starting ~2006 or 2007. Even though the fan is driven by the water pump pulley as before, the clutch is controlled by the PCM. And it appears to be more than just on/off control. Looks like the PCM outputs PWM (pulse-width moulation) which controls how much the clutch locks up, which in turn controls the actual speed of the fan. It's a closed loop system because the fan then has a sensor that reports its RPM back to the PCM. There's DTCs for when the PCM commands the fan clutch to engage and but doesn't see an increase in the reported fan speed.

Sburn - you're an absolute goldmine of knowledge! (I'm being quite sincere when I say that).

Funny, isn't it, that something as simple as a temperature induced viscosity increaser would have to be replaced by sensors, specialized circuitry in the PCM and probably, a much more complicated clutch mechanism in the fan hub. I suppose that's progress, and I'm sure it's ever so much more precise, but still....

- Jack

[Sburn]

Originally Posted by JackandJanet

Sburn - you're an absolute goldmine of knowledge! (I'm being quite sincere when I say that).

Thank you. I claim no special abilities other than I enjoy reading wiring diagrams and powertrain manuals and such.

Funny, isn't it, that something as simple as a temperature induced viscosity increaser would have to be replaced by sensors, specialized circuitry in the PCM and probably, a much more complicated clutch mechanism in the fan hub. I suppose that's progress, and I'm sure it's ever so much more precise, but still....

- Jack

I can make a guess why Ford ended up with such an elaborate system: R-134 refrigerant in the A/C just doesn't work as good as the older R-12 at idle/slow speeds, so you really need the fan to be engaged and pulling fresh air through the condenser when the vehicle is moving slowly. But, at highway speeds, the fan doesn't even need to be there at all to provide A/C and engine cooling and becomes a load that hurts mileage. Being that the PCM already knows the vehicle speed, ambient temp, A/C status, engine temp, etc. anyway, it makes sense to spend a few extra bucks for some wires, connectors, and a few lines of CPU code to eliminate the above two issues. And since it's all just softwre at that point, might as well do something smarter than just On/Off controll and have the PCM map the perfect fan RPM against temps, A/C, VSS, engine temps, etc.. And after replacing one or two of the older visco/thermo -style clutches in my time, I can see how having the PCM know about a misbehaving clutch would be a good thing.

[th3godf4th3r]

ok so i should go out, bring the battery voltage up on the gryphon screen, turn everything on, then put it into drive with the brakes on, so basically its just in drive not rolling, and then see what my voltage is at?


thanks guys btw!

[88Racing]

Here's another good thread on under drive pulleys:
http://dygytalworld.ehost-services13...ighlight=drive

Lars