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  #21  
Old Mon, May 30th, 2022, 10:35 PM
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Oooo That's gonna be a fun one!
Thinking I might get it torn down this week. I've got a bit of off-time scheduled so I'd like to get a look inside.

I picked up an 89 F350 crewcab a few months ago with a "ran-when-parked" 460 that had an incorrectly installed front main and pan seal. Unknown miles but I didn't like all of the sludge and crud in the lower part of the engine when I had the pan off (as in it's a poster-child for the world of poor maintenance practices). Besides, the longer I stare at the EFI 460, the more I think that I don't want a boring 460 that can't handle a different cam or any major performance pieces due to the speed density system...and the best time to do the work is right now with the engine already out.

I'd miss the ease of starting, but low 200s horsepower will suck!
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  #22  
Old Tue, May 31st, 2022, 05:27 PM
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Nothing like having a brand new engine come apart.

Tore down the C8xx head and block engine today. It's a 460. It looks like it never made it through its first oil change. This should demonstrate the importance of correct/large enough ring gaps.

Two of the cylinders will be perfect after a light hone and the rest will just get a crosshatch pattern. There is ZERO ridge. I'll buy a set of new pistons, some gaskets, and probably have it balanced. Then throw it back together and run it.
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  #23  
Old Fri, June 3rd, 2022, 09:48 PM
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I spent some time today getting parts ready for the machine shop. Pistons are on the way along with headers and a cam.

Suppose .017" of ring gap might be not-quite-enough? Like most things I have here, if it was a good runner, it wouldn't be in the shed for my entertainment pleasure.
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  #24  
Old Mon, June 6th, 2022, 05:44 PM
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Pistons and cam on the way.

Did a bunch of math and typing into Desktop Dyno and settled on a cam that will keep the BMEP happy (similar to stock but carry it past 2000 RPM) and make power past 4500 RPM if desired all while losing nothing down low. I also have to keep the torque at bay since the 5-speed input torque rating is already being pushed by the stock 460.

I had to be picky with cam selection as this is a 10.5:1 engine and going "too small" or stock on a cam would really keep my dynamic compression in that 8.9-9.1 range and that's too much for pump gas.

Anyhoo, once the pistons show up it's off to the machine shop and balancer.
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  #25  
Old Tue, June 7th, 2022, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by cleatus12r View Post
I spent some time today getting parts ready for the machine shop. Pistons are on the way along with headers and a cam.

Suppose .017" of ring gap might be not-quite-enough? Like most things I have here, if it was a good runner, it wouldn't be in the shed for my entertainment pleasure.
What did you end up running for Ring End Gap? Normally on a 4.360" bore with factory pistons and rings, I'd use about .025" - 0.028" for compression rings (maybe 0.028" - 0.030" on the 2nd ring) and .018" - 0.020" for oil ring.

For aftermarket stuff I just use whatever they recommend, especially for hypereutectic pistons. The expansion rate on those are slightly different then regular aluminum slugs.

*Technically", some specs only call for 0.004" per bore inch, so in those cases a 0.017" end gap would be considered acceptable. At the end of the day, I'd rather be a tad larger gap than too small. As someone mentioned:

If the gap is too big, only you will know. If the gap is too large, EVERYONE will know!
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  #26  
Old Tue, June 7th, 2022, 08:19 PM
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What did you end up running for Ring End Gap? Normally on a 4.360" bore with factory pistons and rings, I'd use about .025" - 0.028" for compression rings (maybe 0.028" - 0.030" on the 2nd ring) and .018" - 0.020" for oil ring.

For aftermarket stuff I just use whatever they recommend, especially for hypereutectic pistons. The expansion rate on those are slightly different then regular aluminum slugs.

*Technically", some specs only call for 0.004" per bore inch, so in those cases a 0.017" end gap would be considered acceptable. At the end of the day, I'd rather be a tad larger gap than too small. As someone mentioned:

If the gap is too big, only you will know. If the gap is too large, EVERYONE will know!

I'll be running .029" due to the 4.442" bore and the formula of .0065"/in. on run of the mill "rebuilder" cast pistons.

Better safe than sorry.
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  #27  
Old Sat, June 18th, 2022, 10:22 AM
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Everything is heading off to the balancer's shop on Monday afternoon. Here's a bit of trivia for you, too. I was a bit worried about what I was going to do about a flywheel. I've seen a few and done one with a 360/390 flywheel and FE starter but don't really want a Frankenstein just in case I ever sell it since it's not fair to the next guy.

Ford didn't put a manual in the F-Series/460 combo until '83-ish and by that time (since '79), all 460s were externally balanced. The harmonic dampers are all the same from '68-'97 so the crank spacers are where the difference lies. No problems there. The early flywheels (429 manual) are not the right size to use with the ZF 5-speed bellhousing so what's a guy to do? Buy the correct '89 460 flywheel and machine the cast-in counterweight off!

I bought a Pioneer flywheel from Scummit and while it is new-in-the-box, somebody must have gotten a little ways into a similar project and returned it...the counterweight had already been milled off.....I would have used a lathe, but hey, it saved a few bucks! I let a Scummit rep know that their returns department needs to be a little more particular since somebody with an ACTUAL '79-later rotating assembly may have gotten it and installed it....then chased a vibration afterward.
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