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| 1999 to 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel equipped Super Duty and Excursion |
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#21
Thu, August 11th, 2011, 05:50 PM
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Ok, what's the best way to manually turn the engine? Don't you have to do something to let the pressure out..or does it go out the exhaust valves? So what is the coolant plug for? Would it be any use when draining the coolant?
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01 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/3.73/315-75-16/Aeroforce Interceptor/BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/4" turbo back exhaust/CCV Mod/DIY 6637/FPR Shimmed to 65 PSI/TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40T WITH Whsiper tune, 80DD, 100R, 140Ex, 140SS)/Replaced and Cleaned EBPS & Tube 4-6-12/Zoodad mod/Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Cowl Hood/HPx 
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#22
Thu, August 11th, 2011, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
The coolant plug is just for that, draining the coolant out of the block. There is one on the passenger side also.
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2000 F-250 SCLB 2wd 7.3 auto PHP stock-65t-80dd-120race-high idle-no start 4"tb exh, wicked wheel, 3 guages, AIS, coolant filt,
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#23
Thu, August 11th, 2011, 07:19 PM
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I can leave the port open when bumping the starter or gotta close it up if it takes a couple of times?
I got plans to do stage II/III injectors, GTP38R, and Adrenaline hpop
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01 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/3.73/315-75-16/Aeroforce Interceptor/BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/4" turbo back exhaust/CCV Mod/DIY 6637/FPR Shimmed to 65 PSI/TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40T WITH Whsiper tune, 80DD, 100R, 140Ex, 140SS)/Replaced and Cleaned EBPS & Tube 4-6-12/Zoodad mod/Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Cowl Hood/HPx
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#24
Thu, August 11th, 2011, 08:02 PM
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I'd leave the plug out & bump the starter. I'm curios tho why even bother ?
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2000 F-250 SCLB 2wd 7.3 auto PHP stock-65t-80dd-120race-high idle-no start 4"tb exh, wicked wheel, 3 guages, AIS, coolant filt,
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#25
Thu, August 11th, 2011, 10:33 PM
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Aren't PMRs only rated for a certain HP? 500 IIRC. And doesn't PHP only offer the 140tune on forged rods?
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01 F350 7.3 4x4 CC SRW/3.73/315-75-16/Aeroforce Interceptor/BD Thruster II/ Bellowed Up-Pipes/4" turbo back exhaust/CCV Mod/DIY 6637/FPR Shimmed to 65 PSI/TS chip reburned with PHP tunes (Stock, 40T WITH Whsiper tune, 80DD, 100R, 140Ex, 140SS)/Replaced and Cleaned EBPS & Tube 4-6-12/Zoodad mod/Recon smoked cab lights/MM Hubs/Cowl Hood/HPx
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#26
Fri, August 12th, 2011, 02:25 AM
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Well the old rule of thumb was 400HP on PMR's. But this limit was set when tuning was not as great as it is now. If you could use a larger nozzle and less timing, you could keep cylinder pressures in check while still making good, safe power.
Stay tuned to Bill's thread, think this might disprove alot of previous assumptions.
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#27
Mon, September 26th, 2011, 11:42 PM
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So I took some pics of my U-joints a bit ago, i hope they upload here right, can anyone tell me off first look if they should be replaced?
     Thanks for the help!  My thoughts are that it can't hurt, but if they look like they will be fine then I will spend my money on other things Thanks!
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#28
Tue, September 27th, 2011, 07:43 AM
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I can't tell by looking at the pics, I've always just grabbed the drive shaft & shake & twist it to feel for any loose motion in the u-joints.
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2000 F-250 SCLB 2wd 7.3 auto PHP stock-65t-80dd-120race-high idle-no start 4"tb exh, wicked wheel, 3 guages, AIS, coolant filt,
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#30
Tue, September 27th, 2011, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
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Linear Mode
