Install Success

[BigSur]

Got the Gryphon installed and successfully on Level 2 w/ no issues until my custom tune arrives. thanks to all for the help, especially 88Racing

The only other help I need is to determine if I can go ahead and set my GR and TS. I bypassed the custom options during initial setup. Can I go ahead in and change things now or do I need to drive on it for awhile. the manual reads as if you don't have to wait.

[88Racing]

Congrats on your success!

In the near future page 14 of the manual will include the following new paragraph.

" If this is your first programming session with canned or custom calibrations, choose NO to bypass this option to insure that custom files are built from valid data in the PCM. Simply opening the Custom Options menu in the first programming session may cause invalid data to be placed in custom files."

So drive the truck around for approx 100 miles then proceed with the tire and gear sizes.

Once again thanx for your keen eye to correct some things that were overlooked.

Enjoy!

[BigSur]

Originally Posted by 88Racing

Congrats on your success!

In the near future page 14 of the manual will include the following new paragraph.

" If this is your first programming session with canned or custom calibrations, choose NO to bypass this option to insure that custom files are built from valid data in the PCM. Simply opening the Custom Options menu in the first programming session may cause invalid data to be placed in custom files."

So drive the truck around for approx 100 miles then proceed with the tire and gear sizes.

Once again thanx for your keen eye to correct some things that were overlooked.

Enjoy!

Thanks 88...you've been a great help throughout this whole process. I'll be in touch.

[BigSur]

I have one additional question...hopefully someone sees this. Is it normal when installing the pod to have to force the right side (when looking at it) down in between the two sections of dash.....in my case, b/w the dark gray panel where the vent is located and the brown leather panel to the right. My pod would not sit flus on the dash unless I made sure the right side was b/w the 2 panels and pushed down to make everything fit flush and tight. When I did this, it caused the 2 dash panels to spread (just slightly), causing a larger gap than normal.

I don't see this as a big deal but am wondering if my pod is not fitting right for some reason. I've seen instructional pics that don't look like any "spreading" was required to get it to sit flush. Any guidance is appreciated.

[88Racing]

It did that with mine also.
It pinches it to hold it.
Nothing to worry about.
But
If its really lose then that's when that "L" piece is used.

[Jackpine]

BigSur - I didn't notice any "spreading", as you put it, but you DO have to push the right side down so that the pod "snaps" on. This actually holds it in place very securely, which I see as a good thing.

Regarding using the custom options menu - I've spent a lot of time with this thing. I do not see any problem using it to set your TS and GR immediately after completing the first programming session without it. However, I'd be much more cautious about changing other parameters, especially if you have custom tunes. For this, I strongly recommend driving the truck "as is" for a while to figure out what it is that you need to change (if anything at all). Then, make sure you understand what it is you're changing!

To minimize confusing interactions, try to work with one thing at a time and TEST. And, resist the tendency to make big changes.

Remember, your tunes were written by a "pro". If you modify them, you ought to have a pretty good reason. I get very impatient with people who want to know, "How to make Bill's tunes better".

And, please don't hear me making any accusing statements toward you here. I just feel it's good to bring these points up again since the subject comes up so often. I suspect you've done it, but if not, please read through the Q&A on Custom Options to get a better idea of what's going on.

- Jack

[BigSur]

Originally Posted by JackandJanet

BigSur - I didn't notice any "spreading", as you put it, but you DO have to push the right side down so that the pod "snaps" on. This actually holds it in place very securely, which I see as a good thing.

Regarding using the custom options menu - I've spent a lot of time with this thing. I do not see any problem using it to set your TS and GR immediately after completing the first programming session without it. However, I'd be much more cautious about changing other parameters, especially if you have custom tunes. For this, I strongly recommend driving the truck "as is" for a while to figure out what it is that you need to change (if anything at all). Then, make sure you understand what it is you're changing!

To minimize confusing interactions, try to work with one thing at a time and TEST. And, resist the tendency to make big changes.

Remember, your tunes were written by a "pro". If you modify them, you ought to have a pretty good reason. I get very impatient with people who want to know, "How to make Bill's tunes better".

And, please don't hear me making any accusing statements toward you here. I just feel it's good to bring thee points up again since the subject comes up so often. I suspect you've done it, but if not, please read through the Q&A on Custom Options to get a better idea of what's going on.

- Jack

No, I don't take that wrong at all. That's a very good point. My plan is to correct TS and GR for my canned Level 2...and that's it. I personally have no desire whatsoever to start playing with parameters. Bill is the Engineer; I'll let him control that aspect.

I'm only having one issue that this programmer might help me with, which started well before I installed it. When I go from first to second gear, it seems to be a very hard shift, especially if I'm going really light on the accelerator. In May, I towed my camper down to NC, and I noticed that a couple of times when shifting from 1 to 2, I would physically "feel" a "bump" coming from the rear end. I haven't felt this much or at all since I've been home and not towing, but it still seems to shift hard at the low gear unless I'm into the pedal a little bit, i.e. shifting at higher RPMs.

Do you think this is normal or anything to be worried about? I'm wondering if I should have my transmission checked out. What do you think? I was actually going to post this in the transmission forum at F150 but you prompted me.

[Jackpine]

It's fine to bring it up here, but the guys at f150online might have some ideas too.

It COULD be that your Torque Converter is locking too soon or is locked as you do the 1-2 upshift. This is one of the things you can monitor on the Gryphon and CS/CTS platforms. If you see a little "padlock" symbol next to the "Commanded" gear number, the TC is locked. That would tend to make the shift feel harder. The TC lock point is governed by both speed and power demand, so if the power demand is low, it may be locking prematurely.

I've felt what you describe at times pulling up a "mild" hill with a trailer and the TC locks in 3rd. Then, when it upshifts to 4th, it does so without unlocking and the shift is quite "harsh". I've also felt something like this at times when at a lower speed where I've come off the gas and then I step down on the pedal again, but not too hard - it feels like the transmission abruptly drops into a lower gear and there's a hard "clunk" and "lurch".

In Custom Options, you can delay the TC locking for any of the gears, by ADDING to the "zero" value that you'll see there. You can change it +/-2 in 1st, +/-3 in 2nd, +/-5 in 3rd and +/-10 in 4th I think. If you put in negative values, it causes the TC to lock sooner and stay locked longer as speed decreases. You can also adjust the part throttle up/downshifts the same way.

You might try playing with those settings. I've cranked my TC lock/unlock and part throttle up/downshift as far negative as they'll go on my non-towing tune, because I want the engine at the lowest possible RPM for cruising. The WOT power is still there though.

This is an example of what I was talking about when I said to drive it a while to see if there's anything you DON'T like. If you were to decrease your upshift/downshift 1-2 settings and increase the TC lock/unlock settings for 1st and possibly 2nd gear, it might eliminate what you are feeling.

- Jack

[BigSur]

Originally Posted by JackandJanet

It's fine to bring it up here, but the guys at f150online might have some ideas too.

It COULD be that your Torque Converter is locking too soon or is locked as you do the 1-2 upshift. This is one of the things you can monitor on the Gryphon and CS/CTS platforms. If you see a little "padlock" symbol next to the "Commanded" gear number, the TC is locked. That would tend to make the shift feel harder. The TC lock point is governed by both speed and power demand, so if the power demand is low, it may be locking prematurely.

I've felt what you describe at times pulling up a "mild" hill with a trailer and the TC locks in 3rd. Then, when it upshifts to 4th, it does so without unlocking and the shift is quite "harsh". I've also felt something like this at times when at a lower speed where I've come off the gas and then I step down on the pedal again, but not too hard - it feels like the transmission abruptly drops into a lower gear and there's a hard "clunk" and "lurch".

In Custom Options, you can delay the TC locking for any of the gears, by ADDING to the "zero" value that you'll see there. You can change it +/-2 in 1st, +/-3 in 2nd, +/-5 in 3rd and +/-10 in 4th I think. If you put in negative values, it causes the TC to lock sooner and stay locked longer as speed decreases. You can also adjust the part throttle up/downshifts the same way.

You might try playing with those settings. I've cranked my TC lock/unlock and part throttle up/downshift as far negative as they'll go on my non-towing tune, because I want the engine at the lowest possible RPM for cruising. The WOT power is still there though.

This is an example of what I was talking about when I said to drive it a while to see if there's anything you DON'T like. If you were to decrease your upshift/downshift 1-2 settings and increase the TC lock/unlock settings for 1st and possibly 2nd gear, it might eliminate what you are feeling.

- Jack

Very good info Jack, thank you. I'll probably have to read what you've wrote 2 or 3 times to fully understand before I would feel even remotely comfortable with adjusting settings. However, your description almost hits dead on b/c I too have noticed the thump when letting off the pedal and then stepping back into it at the wrong time or close to a shift. In short, I think I'm shifting too soon from 1 to 2. I'd like to increase the speed and/or rpms slightly before that shift occurs, as it always shifts better when under those conditions.

I will research this more and will most likely utilize your advice and play with the subject settings once comfortable. Thanks again.

[88Racing]

On a side note.

Bigsur,
Please update your user cp with the following,

Phone number.
Gryphon serial number.
Hex calibration code.

Nobody else will see this information except PHP and super moderators.

Thank-you