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2004 to 2008 F-150 and Mark-LT 4.2L, 4.6L and 5.4L equipped F-150s and Mark-LTs

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  #1  
Old Sun, May 9th, 2010, 12:40 PM
TTMX911 TTMX911 is offline
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Help E-Fans

So I have an 08 F150 5.4 Supercrew just over 30,000 miles and the goal of making it as fuel effecient as possible. I'm hoping to hit 20+ hwy/17-18 city. I've installed a K&N CAI, Jet MAF, and Edge EVO. I unfortunately found out about PHP shortly after I had purchased me Edge EVO. I read a lot of write ups on E-Fans about the parasatic losses and performance gains. In theory it all makes perfect sense. Lose the 20lb weight from the engine and the drag of the clutch which feel like a fluid drive clutch inside the fan?? Anywayz......Gain HP and MPG lose drag and free up the engine to run more effeciently......well I jumped and built my own E-Fan kit with a Delta Controller. Turned out killer. Looks factory! I get a lot of compliments from other guys and even the local shop! I did this last November I think. I could instantly feel the HP!! No doubt. Passing on the Hwy is no problem! Very peppy! Coolant Temps run consistantly around 196 which is what my EVO was showing before I did the mod. However........I used to Avg. 16-17 mpg Hwy/City combined. Since I've done the e-fan mod I now get 13-15 mpg! Like I said in theory you would think this would definately generate MPG, but when driving around town when applying the gas the truck revs so freely it's constantly running at 1800-2200 RPM where before I think the Mechanical fan and drag kept the RPMs lower more like 1300-1600. Hence the better fuel mileage before switching to the e-fans. I try to be very light with the gas as I know MPGs are directly related to driving habits, but the thing just revs!!!! On the Hwy I've lost maybe .5-.75 as I used to hit 18 mpg according to the AV.MPG on the EVO; now I see like 17.3 just cruising at 70 mph better when doing 55-65, but I live in Washington and have to drive mountain passes quite a bit. Thinking about dropping the e-fans and going back to stock. Also, after reading abit more I think my engine maybe running too cool and should turn it up to run around 200 deg??? I don't care about HP I owned a 97' Ranger 2.3l 4 cyl. before I got my F150 so this truck has more than enough HP to do everything I need it to. I want MPGs!!!! Bill??? Corey??? Any thoughts??? Next mods are Gibson Ceramic headers and Gibson Stainless CAT Back Single Side Swept Exhaust, then "YES" I do plan on having PHP Convert my EVO to a Gryphon and get Custom Tunes, but I spoke with Bill last year and he told me to wait until I do the headers and exhaust. Just for those of you that were going to tell me I need custom tunes Also can't make up my mind about whether or not to sell the EVO and upgrade to the CS?? I like the idea of tracking more on screen than just 4 and the color screen of course, but don't know whether or not theres any real advantage in performance and most importantly MPG's?? I really like the IMPG and AVMPG on the std EVO/Gryphon would like to keep it Also thinking about switching to different coils for MPGs??? and upgrading to Iridium NGK or Denso Sparkplugs. I guess I should just say it.........."HELP!"
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Old Sun, May 9th, 2010, 01:22 PM
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Before you take them out drive a little bit aggressive for a week or two. I dont mean pedal to the floor but accelerating a little bit faster than you have been doing. I noticed that my mileage went up when I started giving more gas until I got up to speed then I would pull back the pedal to the point the power/speed are constant. I am also going off of a vacuum guage so I can get the cruising speed/pedal adjusted faster and more accurately.

I also know that the 1700-2200 is the most common rev range for my truck. All of the shifts occure about 1700-1900 under regular driving conditions. I usually see 1100-1500 after the shift though. It also looks like you might have installed them when they switch from summer gas to winter gas. That usually means a loss of about 1 mpg on my truck with the same grade from the same station. So I would leave it on there until summer for more even comparison. And fill at the same gas station. I can go to two different stations and get over 1 mpg better from gas station A compared to gas station B.

Bringing the temperature up to 200˚ might also help.
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Old Sun, May 9th, 2010, 02:11 PM
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You most definitely want the engine running in the 200-205 degree range! Even 210 is fine. Your thermostat STARTS to open at 195, with the goal of holding the temperature above 200 for efficient operation.

- Jack
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Old Mon, May 10th, 2010, 10:15 AM
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Seriously:
Keeping your vehicle as close to stock as possible with the ignition system will get you the most mpgs along with the least amount of headaches. So stick with stock plugs and coils.
Custom tunes will help.
Your fan that you replaced with the efans should have been an electronically controlled one with an electronic clutch instead of a fluid one.
Don't forget to do the 30K maintenance interval checks also.
Peace!
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Old Mon, May 10th, 2010, 12:21 PM
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I know the stock fan is electronic, what I meant was after pulling the stock fan off and feeling the weight of it no wonder it robbed HP! What I was getting at is when I held the fan clutch in my hand and spun the fan; there was "a lot" of drag and resistance even though it was disconnected and the clutch was not engaged. Which led to my thought that it may have been a fluid drive clutch. Just kind of a thought to myself.

Anywayz.

I had my doubts about the aftermarket coils claiming more MPG's just was wondering if anyone had tested them or was currently using them.

I'm a pretty firm believer in OEM parts are best, but Motorcraft plugs seem to be pretty standard low quality copper core sparkplugs. I have upgraded everything I own to either NGK or Denso Iridium plugs and have always had excellent luck with them. I know different plugs won't persay increase performance, but an Iridium plug will definately last a hell of a lot longer and give more consistant performance over it's lifetime than a std. copper core. As well as a less likelyhood of fouling due to the harder finer tip and chance of coming up with a dead plug; better built higher quality.

Anyone have any other thoughts on the E-Fans??? Going to dial up the Temp. to 205 today and see if that helps. Also, info on the new CS seems so vague. Does anyone know if it retains the AVMPG or the IMPG features?? Is there any real performance advantage with the CS???? Remember I'm referring to MPG's!!!I'm always up for testing and troubleshooting, but if the CS with custom tunes isn't any advantage over the Gryphon with custom tunes I might as well stick with what I've got.

Oh yes, I did take it in for a 128 point inspection and 30,000 mile service. Had the tranny flushed, oil changed, fuel filter replaced. Other than that everything checked out! They did recommend a power steering system flush as well as fuel system flush and injector cleaning. Didn't spring for that yet, but it's in the back of my mind.

Last edited by TTMX911; Mon, May 10th, 2010 at 12:32 PM.
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Old Mon, May 10th, 2010, 12:42 PM
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The only difference between the regular gryphon and the CS is a color screen. Tune wise they are exactly the same. The CS/CTS also does not have an average mpg feature yet, only the IMPG. I'm sure you will see an improvement in mileage with the efans.
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Old Mon, May 10th, 2010, 12:55 PM
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There's going to be no performance or economy increase in using the CS over the older Edge/Gryphon platform. Bill told me they use the same tunes. But, the CS DOES let you monitor a few more things and it definitely has more "bling".

One thing the CS and CTS platforms don't have at the moment is an Avg MPG readout, and Bill cannot program them to datalog like he can with the older Gryphon. Edge says they are going to add the Avg MPG PID once they work out some details on making it more accurate.

I'm really puzzled though about your RPMs. What is your idle set at? If the engine is idling faster than it used to, that would eat gas and, you could lower it using the custom options in the Edge.

I also think you could LOWER your part throttle upshift and downshift points by the max values (-2, -3, and -5, I think). AND, lower your part throttle Torque converter lock/unlock points by the max too. (-2, -3, -5, -10 is what I remember those values to be). Those changes will get you into higher gears sooner and keep you there longer, which will reduce the "rev" feeling you are experiencing.

As 88 said, I'd really stick with OEM coils AND plugs. I've heard of too many problems with other brands.

- Jack
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Old Mon, May 10th, 2010, 01:01 PM
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Ahhhh
I was just inputting my $.02!
My skills of reading between the lines have grown weak the older I get.
There comes a point when trying to get a brick to get the best mpgs possible becomes non cost effective venture.
Another way is to gear lower and maintain stock tire size but then passing power is sacrificed along with towing/hauling capabilities.
Peace!
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Old Mon, May 10th, 2010, 07:59 PM
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No, thank you all for your help. I appreciate the input. Well, if the only difference between a CS and the Gryphon is the screen then I guess I'll stick with the std. Gryphon for now...... Eventually, I will end up with the CS though once they get the AVMPG figured out. Gotta have the bling! Mines pretty accurate though. I remember speaking with EDGE and them telling me they were getting rid of it. I was like why?? Mine works fine. Besides.....if I had the CS and put on any type of background you know my g/f will start asking why I don't have a picture of us for the background. maybe I'll just stick with the Gryphon after all. I'm going to stick with the stock coils, but at 60,000 miles I'm going to have to switch to NGK Iridiums. I'm anal, stubborn, and stuck in my ways I'm not that old though .......I'm only 27 lol maybe thats why I'm not married! My idle is stock. That was one of the first things I thought to try when I first got my EVO was turn down the idle. Well, you can't. You can only turn it up. I adjusted my shift points and TC Lockout points to the max(s) a few months back when I finally read the online manual for the Gryphon!! PHP should be writing the user manuals for EDGE b/c I don't think they even touch on half the stuff you can do with the EVO and it's pretty vague! I'm an inquisitive little gear head aren't I?? As far as adjusting the gearing I've got 3.55 in it which is stock and actually went with bigger tires to drop the RPM's at Hwy Cruising speed 65-70. Running 33" tires don't really want to go bigger to drop the RPMs any further b/c 35" tires are EXPENSIVE. Then again lowering the gearing would probably bring 4th into play a lot sooner. The only times I feel it shift into 4th is when I'm passing someone at about 80 Mph. I need to switch one of my PID to the Gear indicator and see whether or not I'm even using 4th. If I'm not then lower gearing would definatley help by bringing the taller gears into play a lot sooner! Any other thoughts??? I'm all ears!
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Old Mon, May 10th, 2010, 08:06 PM
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What are your rpms at 65-70 because I was thinking about doing the same. Did you have an improvement in that range. It makes me mad because 45-55 I get 18+, same for 75-85. But I get 16 at 60-70 and guess what speed I'm supposed to be driving over here?

On the two manuals just keep in mind that the gryphon has options/improved options compared to the edge evo like the datalogging.
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