Post it, I haven't seen the new style yet.

Not mine but with the mod the only difference is where it meets the fender all you can see is the PVC pipe coupler I will get a pic of mine up later

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...903/engine.jpg

The 04-08 F150s with the 4.6 engine have a different intake and filter arrangement. It also has a snorkel tip that goes into the fender hole so it can be removed and replaced with a straight pipe similar to the DWV intake mod for the 5.4L engine. I think there is also a silencer insert in the intake tube downstream of the filter housing that some folks have removed to improve flow and add a ponies.

EDIT to add: It looks like the 08 pictured above has a different style intake than the 05 with the 4.6 that I looked at regarding the silencer removal. See the link below:

http://www.f150online.com/forums/1821762-post13.html

Yeah I didn't look at the other part of the intake, it looks all straight through, does that extra part on the front really matter? I just replaced the snorkel with 3 inch PVC, and I even bought black paint to paint the PVC cause I couldn't find black PVC but you can't even see the PVC since the coupler covers it all. I don't think anyone would know I did it cause it looks stock, I'll try to get a pic tomorrow.

Real interesting thread, don't know how I overlooked this weeks ago. I did this mod about 6 months ago and had it listed on my custom tune sheet when I got my 87 performance tune. My setup is almost identical to Jack's second version except with flat black paint and the painted hose clamp. I also am using an AEM DryFlow panel filter which makes quite a difference over the stock panel filter acording to my "seat of the pants" dyno. I have confirmed this when I removed the AEM to wash it and put the stock filter in until the AEM dried. One other difference I did was to plug the factory baffles from the inside instead of removing them. In theory this should give a smoother air flow over the stock setup (Jack your thoughts?). It does give it a little more "throat" in sound when you open it up. All said and done I've spent less than $5 on parts and about 1 hour in time on the original setup with a little tweaking later. Was definitely worth the effort in my opinion and alot of fun to do! :2thumbs:

I think you're talking about the "resonators" here? Those three weird things I had no idea what they were for until I started reading forums and learned about intake noise? :hehe:

I'm quite certain they are "dampers" to reduce intake noise. If I'm right, they produce shock waves that cancel the ones that appear in the intake due to the inlet air flow. I doubt plugging them has had much effect except to make your intake louder. I left mine open, and, I think my intake noise is somewhat louder also, but not much. It's possible, quite probable really, that with a different intake area, you might need a different damper configuration. It might be instructive to block them one, two or three at a time in all seven (did I get that right?) combinations. I may try that if I get into a really experimental mood. I really don't think they have much of any effect on the air mass into the throttle body though, so I'd leave them open in the meantime.

Oh, and I've painted my hose clamp too. I know that's added 30 HP and 25 ft-lbs of torque! :2thumbs: :smiley_roll1: :rofl:

- Jack

Well installed the streight pipe on my truck yesterday. Took about 1.5 hours sanding and fitting. I hope it makes things flow better, and give me a little more HP. This was a great idea. Cheap to..

Okay...

I finally got the writeup in the FAQ section. :2thumbs:

F-150 Intake Snorkel Removal

Thanks to all those who contributed. Keep those ideas coming so we can build a nice library of technical documentation. :D


In regards to the Dyno testing of the snorkel, I've tested both the snorkel mod both with the replacement tube and just the open bellows with nearly identical results in both HP and AFR. This leads me to believe that turbulence that far upstream is not an issue in relation to either efficiency or MAF accuracy. It is certainly more stable than kits like the K&N which moves the MAF sensor mounting location 12" towards the air filter to end up about 6" away. Tell me that's not going to be affected by turbulence. :o

Anyway, given the data I've compiled on the this modification, I'd sooner do this modification rather than spend money on a CAI.

Nicely edited, Bill! :2thumbs:

- Jack

Bill,

Thank you very much for publishing the information along with your insights, and giving it a home. I'm certain that this will help lots of people get a little more from their trucks without costing an arm and a leg. :cool_beans: