Don't worry, I think we've all started out ignorant about this stuff. Heck, I even bought Banks stuff when I got my first PSD. :cool:

4th position? I don't think PHP charges for a high idle calibration and I've found that I really can't live without a high idle position anymore. I was hooked the first time I used it. The heater stays warmer in the winter due to increased coolant flow through the heater core and the A/C stays cooler in the summer due to increased airflow (from the cooling fan) through the A/C condenser. You probably know Montana well....-30 in the winter and 100+ in the summer.

MtPaul keep on asking!
 

Look like we have pretty much same stuff on trucks and your ?s are right up my alley! I called Cody yesterday after reading your post & got some great info,He is probably thinking that idiot (me) should just keep reading, haha.By the way Cody I did e-mail Bill yesterday & like I said was dam near quit time by the time I got it written.Never thought much about hi-idle cause mine kicks up in the cold but that would be nice for A/C.Be interested to see what you decide Paul,thanks CJ

Running the A/C is usually what I use High Idle for. Also, if you sit for long periods (like napping at the rest stop... heh heh), you want to have the idle a bit higher so you don't get what's called "wet stacking", which is a buildup of unburnt deposits on the back of the exhaust valves.

I hope this helps.

This is Minotaur-related stuff but I really don't need a position on my chip for high idle anymore and I don't have to worry about driving off with high idle on. :cool:

Why is that?

I pulled the PCM out to get the code off the back and decided to pull the Banks chip to check the contacts - looks like someone did a whiz-bang job of cleaning it, maybe too clean, there's some copper showing. Can I take it to any electronics repair place to be re-tinned if it needs it?

I'll try to post some pics , if I can get to some clear one's without taking it apart again.....

Yes, if you have copper showing on the contacts, PLEASE get them fixed before installing the new chip. You can thwart any chances of chip contact problems.

If worse comes to worse, we offer re-tinning of the J3 port for $15.00 plus shipping. However, any competent electronics facility should be able to handle that for you.

re-tinning
 

Did some calling around, 1st 3 calls people sounded like they thought I was speaking in tongues to them, they just didn't get it. Found a TV repair guy down the road a ways that said no prob, I'll do it while you wait, about $5.00 or so. So, tomorrow I'll yank the PCM out and run it down to him.
Getting all the pieces together and all my ducks in a row before I order anything, want to be prepared so all I have to do is install and run.
Had to order another bypass plug from Banks for the transcommand, only $8.40, free shipping - got a deal on that. Should be here next week. I think I threw out the old one because I didn't know what it was for when I got the truck. :doh: Can't find it..:shrug:
The PCM bracket was cut out for the old chip, looks like I can access everything from the front and won't have to pull it again to install... I hope.

Order time....
 

Bit the bullet and placed my order today....oh boy oh boy!

Thanks for all your help, Cody. I'm sure I'll be calling with some questions.

Based on your recommends I decided on this setup:
Pos 1- mod stock
Pos 2 - 80 HP DD
Pos 3 - 100 HP performance
Pos 4 - 65 HP standard tow
Pos 5 - Anti theft

Decided on just the 3 main positions, couldn't really justify the extra $$ for something that would be either a convenience or purely play time. Though about the idle one, but I really try not to idle my truck more than 5 min or so if I can avoid it...call me cheap.

Thanks again!