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-   2004 to 2008 F-150 and Mark-LT (http://forum.gopowerhungry.com/forumdisplay.php?f=13)
-   -   Frustrated in Texas!! (http://forum.gopowerhungry.com/showthread.php?t=3849)

Jackpine Wed, April 7th, 2010 12:15 PM

Hey! Welcome to the "stupid post club"! I'm the charter member and we're always happy to have new members join us. :giggle:

- Jack

shotgun Wed, April 7th, 2010 12:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JackandJanet (Post 29460)
Hey! Welcome to the "stupid post club"! I'm the charter member and we're always happy to have new members join us. :giggle:

- Jack

I nominate myself for president-elect. Do I hear a second?

My only hope to make up for that one is for 15 people to post questions about GR or TS in the next 10 minutes...(assuming a 15 atta boys for 1 aw $h!t ratio).

:hehe:

Jackpine Wed, April 7th, 2010 01:14 PM

It's more like 20:1, at least that's how I remember it. I've got such an "atta-boy" deficit right now that there's no hope for me.

- Jack

Tuscany FTX Wed, April 7th, 2010 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JackandJanet (Post 29452)
Actually, I suspect your wheel/tire combination. I think your tires are MUCH bigger than your neighbor's, which reduces your effective gear ratio by a bunch. This is going to make your truck slow off the mark, unless you re-gear to compensate.

If you tell me what size tires your neighbor has, I'll be able to tell you the difference in your effective gear ratios.

AND, I would not expect the TC to lock up at all in a WOT 0-60 run. With that load, the TC is going to stay unlocked to provide torque multiplication.

- Jack

My neighbor is running the stock(OEM) wheels/tires. They are 275/65/18, which is also what my stock wheels/tires were.

Jackpine Wed, April 7th, 2010 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tuscany FTX (Post 29468)
My neighbor is running the stock(OEM) wheels/tires. They are 275/65/18, which is also what my stock wheels/tires were.

Uh - you said earlier that he had 17" wheels, not 18's. Can you tell me which it really is? And, is his truck the same model? Because if his is lighter than yours, it's going to be faster too.

I'm going to add that your larger tires DO have more "mass", which means there IS more power needed just to get them rotating (along with the increase in weight they add to your truck, the increased "rolling resistance" due to the larger footprint and the increase in wind resistance you'll see at highway speed due to the larger frontal area).

- Jack

88Racing Wed, April 7th, 2010 01:36 PM

You don't need to sell the whole wheel package:
http://forum.gopowerhungry.com/class...e-package.html

Just swap out the tires to 275/55r20's.
Not unless you still have your stock 18's rims+tires?

Tuscany FTX Wed, April 7th, 2010 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JackandJanet (Post 29470)
Uh - you said earlier that he had 17" wheels, not 18's. Can you tell me which it really is? And, is his truck the same model? Because if his is lighter than yours, it's going to be faster too.

I'm going to add that your larger tires DO have more "mass", which means there IS more power needed just to get them rotating (along with the increase in weight they add to your truck, the increased "rolling resistance" due to the larger footprint and the increase in wind resistance you'll see at highway speed due to the larger frontal area).

- Jack

Yes! I did say 17's. Sorry, after I talked to him I was corrected. It is the same truck. Jack, in your opinion, why would the canned tune 0-60 be quicker than my Custom Tune, even if we are dealing with a tire size and gears issue. Seems to me, that I should have picked up some and not lost power from the Custom Tune. My neighbor also corrected me on his 0-60 time. He said in 87 Custom Tow he is at a 7.37s 0-60. Thanks, for all the input!

Tuscany FTX Wed, April 7th, 2010 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 88Racing (Post 29472)
You don't need to sell the whole wheel package:
http://forum.gopowerhungry.com/class...e-package.html

Just swap out the tires to 275/55r20's.
Not unless you still have your stock 18's rims+tires?

HA!HA! I am still running 305/55/20's. I just bought new wheels and tires.
Thanks,

Jackpine Wed, April 7th, 2010 06:18 PM

OK, your OEM tires and gears were the same as mine. With your NEW tires and rims, your effective GR is 3.59, so you've lost a bit there. According to the Gear Ratio calculator in Pegasus, you would need 3.86 gears to get back to a "stock" performance level and, something like 4.10 would probably be better, to counter the additional rotating mass and rolling resistance.

Now, why your custom tune should be less "peppy" than the canned one is a big puzzle. It's possible that Bill tuned it that way for a reason. He can probably adjust for more power though if you're willing to take the hit on economy. This is something you'll have to work out with him. About the only thing you could try would be to raise your max rpm to maybe 5600 (if it's not already there) and your 1-2 and 2-3 upshifts to about 5200. I'd leave the 3-4 upshift alone and I would NOT go any higher than those numbers.

Remember, this is a truck you're driving, not a dragster. It's really not designed for that kind of abuse.

- Jack

cody994x4 Wed, April 7th, 2010 07:11 PM

why are yall racing f150 4x4's? take him off-roading and see who 'wins' lol

the difference has got to be:
1.)aftermarket rim/tire weight....you are heavier than ur neighboor
2.) leveling kit...you are most likely less aerodynamic...his nose sits lower, you have more 'drag' on your setup
3.)same trannys? same shift points? same final drive ratio?

if u're trying to make ur 4x4 fast....start by re-gearing, then exhaust, then a turbo!

g/l


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