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-   -   Help with deciding settings on 6-position (http://forum.gopowerhungry.com/showthread.php?t=1633)

aaron ford Mon, August 10th, 2009 10:27 PM

Help with deciding settings on 6-position
 
I will be ordering a 6 position Phoenix around the 21st of Aug. I am trying to figure out what settings to chose.

I saw a previous post that OBS trucks are limited to 65HP tunes. What determines this limit? Oil? Injectors? EGT's?

Also what are the differences between FS, DD, Perf and Tow? I have read that throttle tip in and shift points are changed, but which would way to go in hilly terrain? Low speeds on the hilly twisty one lane to work?
I also tow 7K a few times a year through Appalachia.

1997 F350 4x4, 3.55 gears, Automatic, TDE1

Mods include: Cold Air Intake, New 17 Degree HPOP, 1.00A/R, 3"DP, No Kitty, 140V IDM, EBPV Delete, Full Gauges

Thanks for any help. Don't want to screw this one up.

Aaron

cleatus12r Tue, August 11th, 2009 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaron ford
I saw a previous post that OBS trucks are limited to 65HP tunes. What determines this limit? Oil? Injectors? EGT's?

The "limit" on power output for the 95-97 trucks comes from the comparatively lower fuel injector output capability versus the 99-03 trucks. So you are right when you suspect the injectors for this limit. EGT? Hardly. With a 3" downpipe, it's REALLY hard to get above 1200 degrees even with a fairly radical tune.

You have a great start with your truck as far as modifications go. Especially with the 17 degree HPOP which opens up a larger arena for larger injectors down the line.

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaron ford
Also what are the differences between FS, DD, Perf and Tow? I have read that throttle tip in and shift points are changed, but which would way to go in hilly terrain? Low speeds on the hilly twisty one lane to work?
I also tow 7K a few times a year through Appalachia.

Fuel Sipper's only real obvious trait is that it alters the amount of injection on throttle tip in. It's a great-running tune but runs like stock with less throttle input at 1/2 throttle or less....especially when the engine isn't up to operating temperature. However, it will improve economy as long as you don't drag race from light to light with it....it almost HAS to. More transparent are the injection "timing" and the injection control pressure in the cruise rpm/load ranges.

Daily Driver tunes are designed to take the mundane out of every day usage. Your accelerator pedal is responsive, your power goes up, the shifts aren't quite as mushy, etc. Your truck becomes more fun to drive to work (and face it, we all need help with putting "fun" in work).

Performance? Firm, later shifts, early torque converter lockup under load, and lots of power to put to the ground.

On hilly terrain, I'd recommend towing tunes....even while empty. These trucks shift VERY early under light-load conditions. The problem is that unless your programs are designed to shift a little later than stock, you will be in and out of certain gears at certain speeds. Fuel Sipper and some Daily Driver tunes don't change the shift speeds much (if at all) so hilly terrain may not be the best usage of these programs.

aaron ford Tue, August 11th, 2009 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaron ford (Post 13706)
Mods include: Cold Air Intake, New 17 Degree HPOP, 1.00A/R, 3"DP, No Kitty, 140V IDM, EBPV Delete, Full Gauges



Aaron

Most mods were made during repairs... Sneaks under the SWMBO's nose this way.

Cold Air Intake, Stock hose split
New 17 Degree HPOP, HPOP failed
1.00A/R, Turbo failed
EBPV Delete, Actuator failed


3"DP, No Kitty, and Full Gauges were installed after I started towing.
Aux tranny cooler was installed after I read said gauges,
The IDM was done for cheap fun.

I will likely forgo the Fuel Sipper as my tranny shifts way too soon as it is. We spend a lot of time searching for the right gear only to upshift immediately when the proper gear is found. Perhaps a Perf, two Tows, and a Whisper would work well.

Thanks,

Aaron

Power Hungry Thu, August 13th, 2009 12:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaron ford (Post 13776)
Most mods were made during repairs... Sneaks under the SWMBO's nose this way.

I will likely forgo the Fuel Sipper as my tranny shifts way too soon as it is. We spend a lot of time searching for the right gear only to upshift immediately when the proper gear is found. Perhaps a Perf, two Tows, and a Whisper would work well.

Be careful, Aaron... Corey is a SWMBO and might give you a little grief about circumventing your SWMBO. :yikes2: :giggle:

If shifts are already early, then the Fuel Sipper is definitely out. With your mods, 25T, 40T and 65P are what you'll get the best use out of. The Whisper Mode is handy, and we'll throw a stock and No Start on at no charge as well. This gets you to the $309.00 mark and also nets you the sale price if you act fast. :dollar:

Take care.

aaron ford Fri, August 14th, 2009 11:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Power Hungry (Post 13893)
If shifts are already early, then the Fuel Sipper is definitely out. With your mods, 25T, 40T and 65P are what you'll get the best use out of.

I do not see a 65P on the order form. Did I miss it?

Thanks again,

Aaron

Power Hungry Fri, August 14th, 2009 11:52 PM

Nope, you didn't miss it. It's not on the form. :doh: If you just indicate in the comments box for the 65P program, that'll cover you.

Take care.

AZStang Thu, August 20th, 2009 07:03 PM

Hello,

I just recently found PHP and am impressed with what everyone is saying. I debated about starting a new thread or just jumping in here since I have an almost identical truck and mods as Aaron. I have a couple questions and apologize Aaron if this gets off track any.

My truck is a 1996 F350 Crew Cab, 4x4, Auto, 4.10. Like Aaron, my mods include a Tymar intake, 1.0 exhaust housing, IDM mod, 3"-4" down pipe with 4" MBRP exhaust and muffler - no cat. I have also had my PCM flashed to the latest and greatest stock tune (TDE1?) by Jody at DP-Tuner. Where Aaron and I differ is I still have the EBPV and stock HPOP (shows 2,600 psi on AE if it matters.). Also, my transmission has had a performance rebuild and the shifts are already really firm. Unfortunately though, I believe the torque converter is a close to stock unit from Axiom. I bought it this way though, so I am not exactly sure. It looks like I may be towing a 27' travel trailer on some trips coming up this fall. Otherwise I run mostly around town empty.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Power Hungry (Post 13893)
With your mods, 25T, 40T and 65P are what you'll get the best use out of. The Whisper Mode is handy, and we'll throw a stock and No Start on at no charge as well. This gets you to the $309.00 mark and also nets you the sale price if you act fast. :dollar:

Now the questions:

1. Would this be your recommendation for my setup as well?

2. I'm assuming we can re-burn for big oil and injectors if I ever get there?

3. Even though the transmission rebuild on my truck was done by a no-name shop, I have spoken with the guy that did it and he assured me that all the best high quality parts were used in it's construction. (Except for the torque converter apparently!) I have the parts list of what went into it if needed. Anyway, my main concern with a chip is that it will shorten the life of the transmission. Just looking for your thoughts on this.

4. What kind of switches to you offer? Do you have one that fits in a 2 1/16" gauge opening?

Thanks,
Shawn

cleatus12r Thu, August 20th, 2009 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AZStang (Post 14236)
I have also had my PCM flashed to the latest and greatest stock tune (TDE1?) by Jody at DP-Tuner. .....That's considered good!

Also, my transmission has had a performance rebuild and the shifts are already really firm. I tuned a truck tonight that has some kind of shift-enhancement changes made to it. The customer bought it that way and HATES how firm it shifts....I tuned the harshness right out of it. :rofl:



Now the questions:

1. Would this be your recommendation for my setup as well? I can't see why any changes would need to be made. The stock programming doesn't command more than 2500 PSI under load on a stock TDE1 anyway. It may be a little lower once the injectors are commanded to stroke farther/longer though.

2. I'm assuming we can re-burn for big oil and injectors if I ever get there? Yes, and then at that point, you will need a higher capacity HPOP.

3. Anyway, my main concern with a chip is that it will shorten the life of the transmission. Just looking for your thoughts on this. I hate to sound like a pessimist, but just driving a 7.3L with an E4OD (or 4R100) behind it is asking for a breakdown. No, seriously, there are a lot of instances in the aftermarket programming that are actually better for the transmission.....especially while towing or with more power. Those shifts that Ford didn't want the customer to feel....those are bad for the transmission. There really aren't any hard parts that you need to worry about with sub-350 HP levels.....just try not to do too many full-throttle 1-2 upshifts because the weak link IS that shift.

4. What kind of switches to you offer? Do you have one that fits in a 2 1/16" gauge opening? I'm not going to answer for Bill, but I assume the only chip/switch combination PHP offers is the TS 6-position with a rotary knob switch.

Thanks,
Shawn

Hope this helps!

Power Hungry Thu, August 20th, 2009 10:45 PM

Thanks for jumping on that, Cody! :2thumbs: You are correct on all instances.

To further clarify on the switches, the only one we currently carry is the TS-Performance 6-position rotary knob switch. We will be looking into some different switching options in the future but nothing in the works yet.

Finally, don't hesitate to start a new thread. One advantage is to that is that sometimes it's easy to get a post lost in another thread. If you start your own, it help make your questions more visible. :cool_beans:

Take care

aaron ford Fri, August 21st, 2009 12:13 AM

I do not mind one bit. I placed my order yesterday afternoon and am awaiting some PHP tunes in my mailbox as we speak.

1-2 shift is the weak one, eh?

Good to know!

Aaron

AZStang Fri, August 21st, 2009 09:47 AM

Thanks guys. I like the way the trans shifts now and I definitely don't want it to shift any harder. I also want to make sure it lasts.

I'm not all that informed about the chips out there, but any chance the :disbelief: DP-Tuner gauge switch would work with the TS chip? Do you think the knob you offer would fit inside of a ±2" gauge opening? Not sure how :cool: that would look though.

Curious too about if I get the chip and the trans doesn't shift to my liking. Am I just out of luck or can I send it back for modification?

Thanks,
Shawn

Power Hungry Fri, August 21st, 2009 11:59 AM

We've been asked about the switch a few times. Unfortunately, it doesn't control the same way the rotary knob does. We're looking at possibly getting some gauge "shells" made which would allow the relocation of the switch to the pillar pod.

As for updates, you just send the chip back in for any tweaks. We also off the burner in the FU package which means you can make immediate changes to your files instead of sending the chip back in. :D

AZStang Fri, August 21st, 2009 03:42 PM

Thank you Bill. I've never driven a truck with a chip before so I am not even sure I would like the push buttons over a knob anyway. In fact, the rotary knob may be easier to use. Just need to decide where I could mount it though.
Does the rotary switch come with a sticker or numbered mounting plate to show what setting number it is on?

Thanks,
Shawn

cleatus12r Fri, August 21st, 2009 04:53 PM

I make my own brackets that mount below the dash or in the cubby hole since I hate drilling holes in dash panels.

As for the numbered stickers, you might be able to get small numbered stickers that you can affix to the switch plate.

Power Hungry Fri, August 21st, 2009 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cleatus12r (Post 14275)
I make my own brackets that mount below the dash or in the cubby hole since I hate drilling holes in dash panels.

As for the numbered stickers, you might be able to get small numbered stickers that you can affix to the switch plate.

Got any brackets for sale? We can pay you in Gameroom cash... :smiley_roll1:

cleatus12r Fri, August 21st, 2009 10:08 PM

I don't need you to hand out your dirty gameroom cash....Roulette pays pretty good. :hehe:

Besides, they're nothing special. They are 1" x 1/8" angle painted interior color with fancy rounded corners. I painted hash marks at every chip setting on one of them.

AZStang Sat, August 22nd, 2009 12:10 AM

Just a few more questions, I promise.

1. The order form says that the 25hp Tow is for towing extremely heavy, and the 40hp Tow is for heavy towing. If I never tow over 6,000 lbs, why would I need these tunes? Is this order form written more for guys with the monster injectors, big HPOP, and a big turbo?

2. What difference would I see between the 25hp Tow and 40hp Tow?

3. What would be the difference between the 65hp Performance tune and the 65hp Daily Driver? Would one use more fuel than the other?

4. What would happen if I tried the 100hp Performance tune?

5. I don't want much smoke, will the 65hp Performance tune cause a lot of smoke?

6. I currently roll the truck down to the end of the driveway in neutral before I start it so I don't wake the kids. How much quieter is the Whisper Mode?

Thanks,
Shawn

cleatus12r Sat, August 22nd, 2009 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AZStang (Post 14291)
Just a few more questions, I promise.

1. The order form says that the 25hp Tow is for towing extremely heavy, and the 40hp Tow is for heavy towing. If I never tow over 6,000 lbs, why would I need these tunes? Is this order form written more for guys with the monster injectors, big HPOP, and a big turbo? I use a 25-30 HP towing tune all the time, even while towing less than 6-8K lbs. It's just to ensure that my wife or I don't HAVE to "drive by the pyrometer". Besides, we drive in an area in which we frequently have high headwinds (40-50 MPH) while driving. It's nice to be able to maintain 2000 RPM while towing and never exceed 1100 degrees. The moral of the story.......I don't base HP on weight only. A 4K lb. camper gets really heavy while driving into a 40 MPH headwind.

2. What difference would I see between the 25hp Tow and 40hp Tow?In a nutshell, more power in the 40 HP program due to less of a worry about EGTs and the transmission.

3. What would be the difference between the 65hp Performance tune and the 65hp Daily Driver? Would one use more fuel than the other?Bill will have to answer that one because I don't have them to compare.

4. What would happen if I tried the 100hp Performance tune? You would LOVE driving your truck. Every other tune would become mundane and boring while commuting to work.

5. I don't want much smoke, will the 65hp Performance tune cause a lot of smoke? I wouldn't think so. Besides, with the tunes of Bill's that I have tried, it takes slightly more pedal to hit the "aggressive" point in the fuel curves. If you TRY to smoke, you will smoke (not a whole lot with a 65 HP program anyway) because it takes more accelerator pedal input to get smoke. With other brands of tuning I have used, it can be hard to not smoke even while taking off normally.

6. I currently roll the truck down to the end of the driveway in neutral before I start it so I don't wake the kids. How much quieter is the Whisper Mode?Bill, please correct me if I'm wrong. I don't have any Whisper Mode tunes. However, I believe that the Whisper mode only works when the engine is warm. I am not sure about this though so Bill will have to give you a definite answer.

Thanks,
Shawn

I answered what I could.

soutthpaw Sun, August 23rd, 2009 11:20 AM

Unless you need the no start or if you have an extra slot on the chip, consider going with a Hi-Idle... nice if you are jump starting another truck, want better performance from A/C While Idling, running winch, large power inverter etc...

I set mine to 1200 RPM's as my alternator puts out the max 200A current at that RPM..
as your original question was about tune suggestions, that is my 2 Cents

Power Hungry Sun, August 23rd, 2009 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cleatus12r (Post 14297)
Quote:

Originally Posted by AZStang (Post 14291)
Just a few more questions, I promise.

1. The order form says that the 25hp Tow is for towing extremely heavy, and the 40hp Tow is for heavy towing. If I never tow over 6,000 lbs, why would I need these tunes? Is this order form written more for guys with the monster injectors, big HPOP, and a big turbo? I use a 25-30 HP towing tune all the time, even while towing less than 6-8K lbs. It's just to ensure that my wife or I don't HAVE to "drive by the pyrometer". Besides, we drive in an area in which we frequently have high headwinds (40-50 MPH) while driving. It's nice to be able to maintain 2000 RPM while towing and never exceed 1100 degrees. The moral of the story.......I don't base HP on weight only. A 4K lb. camper gets really heavy while driving into a 40 MPH headwind.

2. What difference would I see between the 25hp Tow and 40hp Tow?In a nutshell, more power in the 40 HP program due to less of a worry about EGTs and the transmission.

3. What would be the difference between the 65hp Performance tune and the 65hp Daily Driver? Would one use more fuel than the other?Bill will have to answer that one because I don't have them to compare.

4. What would happen if I tried the 100hp Performance tune? You would LOVE driving your truck. Every other tune would become mundane and boring while commuting to work.

5. I don't want much smoke, will the 65hp Performance tune cause a lot of smoke? I wouldn't think so. Besides, with the tunes of Bill's that I have tried, it takes slightly more pedal to hit the "aggressive" point in the fuel curves. If you TRY to smoke, you will smoke (not a whole lot with a 65 HP program anyway) because it takes more accelerator pedal input to get smoke. With other brands of tuning I have used, it can be hard to not smoke even while taking off normally.

6. I currently roll the truck down to the end of the driveway in neutral before I start it so I don't wake the kids. How much quieter is the Whisper Mode?Bill, please correct me if I'm wrong. I don't have any Whisper Mode tunes. However, I believe that the Whisper mode only works when the engine is warm. I am not sure about this though so Bill will have to give you a definite answer.

Thanks,
Shawn

I answered what I could.

Thanks Cody. :)

To answer 3, the biggest difference between the Tow and Performance is the aggressiveness of the low to mid throttle pedal. Performance is going to be a little snappier at mid throttle while tow is a little calmer through mid throttle. Low boost fueling is also less aggressive on the towing tune in order to help keep the trailer a little cleaner. Finally, the shift strategies are a bit different with low to mid throttle shifts raised a bit to keep RPMs up and subsequently keep boost up.

For question 6, whisper mode uses timing changes to in order to help quiet the engine noise down. The problem with using this to method is that it destabilizes cold idle, making it relatively useless until the engine is warm. Unfortunately, it looks like you may end up having to the keep rolling to the end of the driveway...


Take care.

AZStang Tue, August 25th, 2009 09:23 AM

Thank you for all the help Bill and Cody!

Shawn


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