Getting ready to do mods ????
 

I am getting ready to pull the truck in the garage and do mods. I want to do the fuel tank mod and rebuild the fuel bowl. Then hopefully new injectors and new exhaust seals.

For the fuel mod and the rebuild fuel bowl is this a good source?
Fuel Bowl

fuel mod Also Helper Pump


Here is his site if you want to check it out:
Welcome to guzzle's Ford PSD Web Pages

Also are his prices good?

Great mods!

Be sure before you start to have all the o-ring's, vibra-lok fittings, and new parts. Its is always better to have extra parts that you can keep as spare then to have to wait for them to arrive.

How about this kit? What else do I need? I was thinking of getting his whicked wheel for 100 bucks.

Wow, that looks like a nice kit!

I don't think you will need anything else. The price for the WW seems high, but what you spend in just shipping cost getting it from another supplier will make up for the extra cost.

I say go for it.:thumbs up yellow:

Ok thats good to know. I am also going to replace the exhaust up pipe to turbo gaskets. What are they called and what price am I looking at?

And on my tranny on the driver side the electronic gaget sticking out the side is leaking. Is there a kit for the tranny too? Like o ring gasket and filter?

After I get this im going to pick your brains about injectors!! Going to take the wife on a date so I will be in tonight!

See Blue.

I suggest single shots for better mileage.

The single shots? Can I get that from rosewood diesel as a rebuild?

It looks like the single shots arent for my year truck? Here

You can put single shots in your truck.

Only thing is you need a chip that is programmed for them. No problem for PHP.:thumbs up yellow:

Ohh and you can get more power from singles too.:D

So you are saying I can get these injectors (stage 1) for my truck and they will work but I need to get new tunes from php? Doesnt each tune cost money cause I just bought the chip?

So how much would I have to spend in tuning?
If I am called in for smog in California will I pass?
Is the Harness the same?
Better mpg. Like how much?

Sorry for all the questions but I want to be a 100% positive before I spend that money.

Eric,

• Singles in a split-shot truck are not a problem at all.
• Custom files are $30.00 per position.
• If you have a "stock" or low HP (say 25 HP) program, you shouldn't have any problems passing an emissions test.
• Harness is all the same. The injectors bolt right in.
• Compared to splits which see around 16 MPG or so, singles can often see 18 MPG or better with some claims over 20.

I hope this helps.

Bill so the stage 1 injectors for 500 from Rosewood will work for my truck or do you recommend another company?
Would i need to get all new tunes? or could I just get a couple? Cause that tune list is long and that would be expensive.

The Rosewood kit is good, comes with good instructions with lots of pictures. Only problem with the DIY kits is there is no way to flow match the injectors once modified. You more than likely will not ever know the difference, especially with Stage 1's, but they might not be as balanced as a set you can purchase.

I would recommend having Jim (Rosewood) modify the injectors and flow match them. You could also look into a set that have already been done, then you just send yours back as cores. IMHO Swamps is the best in the business when it comes to modified injectors, great quality control.

You might also look into AC code injectors which are singles, they are usually pretty reasonably priced.

Ultimately it is up to you as there are many companies that are great injector builders.


For tuning, all the tunes must be for single shot's. It will run without any programing, or programming for splits but it will run very strange.

Dave,

He's looking at Stage 1 Singles, which is the AC code injector.

Ooops....I meant NEW AC code injectors instead of remans.:doh:

That's okay Dave, I'm sure you were still trying to recover from tuning your truck last night. ;)

MMmmm I got to call rosewood. For 500$ I have to send in my injectors to get fix which is fine BUT there not single shots:( . I dont have a 1000 bucks to spend for premium injectors.

Ok got a question.
First
I pulled the fuel bowl and its completely apart. Is there any way i can just dip the bowl in something and pull it out to be sparkly clean? What is the fuel bowl made of? Aluminum?

Second
I bought the HPOP re seal kit. My HPOP looks new. It has a re manufacture sticker on it and appears that theres no oil leaks. Should I go ahead and pull everything apart and replace the seals??
The 2 wired mesh hydrolic line going to the middle of each head is that the oil line?

Thanks

See Blue

As for your fuel bowl....

http://partimages2.genpt.com/partimages/383663.jpg

Will that carb cleaner take the rust off? Just got a bunch tools from harbor freight to make my life easier!!!! Taking the turbo off tomorrow hopefully.Going to put the wicked wheel on and heat wrap all the pipes!!

That stuff works AWESOME on aluminum, but I dont think it will pull rust off.

Check this out..............


Cookie's Crap Corvette Tips No.1

Ive been e mailing rosewood injectors. Every e mail I get back is confusing and they never answer my questions correctly. Is there another place I can look for injectors at a good price.

Also in search of single shot injectors is there a certain code im looking for or just ask for single shots?

Can i remove the HPOP lid and suck all the old oil out?

You have to pull the Allen head plug and suck the oil out that way.

Search for AC code injectors, or Stage 1 singles.

Here is a pic of my rebuilt fuel bowl. the vinigar worked good on cleaning the bowl.
Also here is the turbo with the whistln wheel on it. The instructions did not give a tourque. Is there on?

How do i know if this is the original engine?? It seems like there is alot of new stuff on the engine. gaskets look new etc. Were is the engine number?

Just as long as it is fully seated, the torque delivered from the turbine shaft will keep the wheel tight.

The serial # is stamped in the block next to the rear of the oil cooler, above the oil filter.

See Blue

Have you checked to see what rods you have in it yet?:evillol:

How do I do that???? Im telling you I really think this engine is new for 230000 miles its really clean no rust shiny valve covers. Computers in the garage so i will respond fast if my key board can keep up with the oily fingers :cheesy smile:

Check this out...........

7.3 Inspection Hole for Powdered Metal Rod Determination

What year is your truck?

Its a 99.5 Im looking above the spin on oil filter and dont see any stamped numbers.

Here is a rough guide if you know your serial #.

*Beware* this is not 100% accurate, I check the # on my spare engine and it said it had PMR's. After I had the pan off I found it had forged. Also if you suspect it has a re-man in it they it wont mean a thing as the engine builder could have put anything in it.

It is beside the rear of the cooler, stamped vertically.

I must be missing it. Were is the cooler I see the spin on and thats it. Ah i see the cooler. i see numbers on the cooler. I washesd the engine and the valve cover sticker fell off. It says internation by navstar

2000 model B235cf

adv. bhp @ rpm 235 2700

7.3 DIT engine Family ynvxho7.3anc

You can see it in this pic circled in RED.

http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/t.../untitled3.jpg

You are better off just pulling the plug, sticking your head up there and taking a peek inside.

My extension just broke off in the plug. :cursin:

Damn..........

Good Luck!

Heres the code the best i could read.
Horizontal: YEE97922

vERTICAL: 4JV2V12311791

the plate on the front left of the engine compartment above the head light is that suppose to match the engine code?

The Oil in the HPOP res. does that enter the engine or does it recycle itself? It was super gewy when I sucked it out. If its a separate thing I would like to put expensive stuff in it.

Please dont forget my previous questions.

Gotcha!

to bad you dont live closer Dave!!

LOL.......I would love to come give you a hand.........but......yeah.

I see there is an adjustment on the turbo waste gate should i adjust that before I install it?

There is a way to adjust the gate buy tightening the rod down a bit.

I don't know if I would as the tuning should take care of that.

I just leave it unplugged. When Im boosting it swwms to bleed off at 20

Actually Dave, the wastegate will still open regardless of the tuning.....but only because drive pressure overcomes spring pressure in the actuator. I tuned the heck out of my friend's 99.5 6-speed but couldn't get decent boost at low RPM (what I knew it was capable of). I never had an issue with automatics, but since manuals lose boost at every shift, I knew something was fishy. So I adjusted the wastegate rod until it was physically impossible for the wastegate to ever open and now the driveability of his 6-speed is GREAT. Of course I had to take some fuel out down low afterwards but it's a totally different truck now. I wouldn't recommend doing it to another truck, but I'm just throwing it out there because I know that the springs in the actuators are pretty weak and that they will be overcome by drive pressure at relatively low boost regardless of whether or not the wastegate solenoid is commanded to send boost to the actuator or not.

Great!

Thanks for clearing that up for me, I was not sure as I have not had much experience with the stock turbo's.

Which way does the flap need to be (closest to actuator or farther) I think now its closer. i would like to just wire it shut so it cant open is that ok to do?

Also can someone help me get the part numbers for the exhaust donuts for the up pipe. They are leaking. One of the exhaust hangers cam undone so the weight of the echaust was hanging on the turbo. I need all 4 donuts upper and lower for the up pipe. Kragen or Napa had do idea what I was talking about. Both the parts guys asked what a powerstroke was!

You want the rod as short as you can get it, tighten it down as much as you can then use compressed air in the actuator port to hook it back up to the gate.

Remember, more boost does not always mean more power.

For the doughnuts you will only need 2, the lowers are a flared type connection.

Go to your Ford dealer for those.

To get the wastegate actuator rod as short as it needs to be, you'll have to trim about 3/8" off of the threaded rod.

Yes, the Ford dealer will have the donuts...and they're pretty cheap. My money says you might as well buy new pipes as well because they'll actually be worn out where the donuts ride and they won't seal even with new donuts.

On the turbo what is that exhaust flap for on the exhaust side?

It is a warm-up valve.

When engine is cold the computer will close that valve in an attempt to keep some heat in the engine for faster warm-up times and reduced emissions.

Some guys are using that valve as a exhaust brake, though I am not sure how effective this is. I do know this can create added backpressure and you run the risk of floating exhaust valves.

Do we really need it? Does it restrict flow and can you kit it off?

Meh......When I took it off my truck and really did not notice a power increase, but I did not see a difference in warm-up times either.

I would say yard it, it can hurt to try.

In my 2000 F550, 4R100, 4:88, 4x4. I was getting 7.5 to 8 mpg round trip hauling hay, the same run 2-3 times a week. I put stock '94 to '97 90cc single shots, now I am getting 10.5 to 11 mpg that is huge at 1200miles per week.

It dose not have quite the top end power, due to 90cc vs. 140cc, but a lot qiucker and much better low end power. I have not got a chip yet (I have been so busy) I am getting a long with it, ruff idle is annoying.

If the chip doesn't help with the top end power I will, mill the intensifiers pistons for 120-140cc. I want to keep the fuel mileage

Do I need to get friction modifier for my rear dually axle and my front axle they say dana on the caps

Only if you have a limited slip or locking differential in the rear. Very unlikely you have a locker in the front. To tell if have a limited slip, jack up your truck so both wheels are off the ground, put in neutral, and spin on wheel if the other wheel spins the same way, you have a limited slip differential, add friction modifier

If the wheel spins the opposite direction, you have an open differential, no friction modifier needed.