What exactly is a gryphon upgrade.
 

So what exactly is a gryphon upgrade? Currently I'm a computer programmer, and have in the past was a chip based programmer, so that is why the curiosity.

I mean is it a new chip with your custom code, or do you just reflash the existing chip in the programmer with your code? I know some of it may be sensitive so a simple yes or no will do if you can't fully explain.

Now I have a stock evo. The only performance mod I've done right now is the Gotts mod with plans to add efans, underdrive pulleys, exhaust and others as time come. Is it worth it to wait for all that to be done or should I change the evo to the gryphon before hand?

I normally run 89, and and plan on doing some towing down the road, I was thinking 89 performance, and 93 tow tunes, what are your thoughts?

It is taking a basic Edge unit, reprogramming it, recasing it in some situations and sending it back with the improved canned tunes, other improved functions and the ability to accept custom tunes.

If you have a '97-'03 and a monochrome Edge you can't upgrade. PHP no longer upgrades those programmers because of a cable issue.

The CS and CTS, however, can still be used on those trucks.

You can upgrade at any time and put your order in line for custom tunes.

cool thanks, I do plan on doing a true dual exhaust, so I'll wait till that is done, and then get the custom tuning.

How far down the road do you plan on doing it. Getting the exhaust done THEN ordering your tunes isn't a good idea because of the wait time. If you'll be doing them really soon then go ahead and order them.

hopefully by August I should have the exhaust done, I haven't exactly figured everything out for it other than I want true duals.

Truduals can be done anytime......its when you put longtube headers on that custom tunes will be needed ....cat deletes....and or high flow cats...

Don't forget install a x pipe...

thank you sir

88 - I have a question here, and I acknowledge your experience with these things when I ask it: If he installs a dual exhaust using either the H-pipe or X-Pipe configuration (eliminating the Y-Pipe), so that each bank is rally "balanced" and is not causing a conflict, wouldn't that require a custom tune to take advantage of the new configuration?

Back to the Op's original post though, do you really plan to fill your tank with 93 octane stuff when you tow? Somehow, this doesn't compute in my feeble little mind. You're already using gas that has a higher knock resistance than the engine really needs (89 octane). The additives that are put in to raise the octane to 93 actually reduce, to some extent, the energy available. They make the fuel more resistant to ignition and, slow the burn rate when it does ignite. This is all fine and dandy when you're spinning the motor at 5K, but you're not going to be doing that while towing, (I hope).

So, if you really just want to have fun, I'd suggest a 93 octane PERFORMANCE tune and an 89 octane tow tune. But there's another consideration: If you tow some distance from where you live, will you find 89 octane juice? If not, I really recommend an 87 octane tow tune. You do not want detonation while towing! You can used 89 octane gas in an 87 octane tow tune.

But with gas prices going up, I think I'd opt for what I have: 87 non-tow and 87 tow tunes.

And, I'm just pointing these things out. I may be way off base here, but I'd like you to think about it.

- Jack

I will be using an X or H

and Jack I asked the question about which tunes because I really don't know, 87 89 and 93 are all readly available around here, but I get your point about 93.

I plan on using the 89 performance for my daily driving. Towing right now mind you is in 3rd gear running about 60-65 down the highway is usually between 3k -4k rpms, but thats without the dual exhaust and running those new 35's I got, I don't suppose I should regear it do ya? to a 4.10 or 4.56

Those RPM numbers seem high to me. and I'm puzzled, because with 35" tires, they should be lower than that. I'd guess in the 2K range. Putting in higher gears is going to increase your RPMs. So, I'm confused, and probably not seeing something properly. I can't believe you're cruising with the Torque Converter unlocked, which might boost the RPMs to the 3K range, or possibly even higher if you're towing a huge load.

What weight are you towing? If you tow really big loads, then a regear is probably a good idea. I will say the 35" tires have reduced your effective gear ratio to a "non-tow" setup though.

- Jack

So you're taking the O/D off? Do you really need to? That is really just used if the truck is hunting for the right gear configuration.
If I do that I think my RPM is just hitting 3k at that speed with the TC locked...I have 30 inch tires with 3.55 gears. I'm going by math and what I usually see cruising around 70 in 4th, funny I was pulling up a grade with over a half ton in stuff earlier and I didn't remember what rpm I saw at the 60ish speeds. Wish I had read the post sooner.
Edit: pulled some info from some data logs and made some estimates. I'd be running around 3100 rpm in 3rd with the TC locked, so my memory isn't too bad.

With 3.73 gears at 35s you should be sitting even lower than I am. Now if the truck already had 4.10 gears you would be just a bit higher than me. Are you 100% sure the truck has stock gears? What axle code do you have in your door jamb?

Yes I do take the O/D off been doing that for years when towing. Old habits die hard and I learned before I was even driving when towing don't use the O/D.

I'm pretty sure they are the 3.73 gears, from what the paperwork states and when I first hooked up the evo that's what the ecu says it has in it. I'll check the door jam later to make sure.

Well the programmer doesn't actually know what is in the axle. That is the default value for custom settings. If you got the truck used it could say anything. It probably wouldn't hurt to go with lower gears though. Especially if you are towing a lot of heavy loads.