new shocks
 

So i got my oil changed for free from the dealer today and they said I need new shocks... so what does anyone know about them that will help me buy them? I do plan on towing a little, but nothing too heavy, and I still want a decent ride, but the ability to go off road and have fun.
They quoted $700 for both front and back, $400 for the front, $200 for the back, and the rest was tax and labor. that sound right?
Thanks for the help! :D

I've not had to change mine on my truck, but the price sounds about right to me. One thing though, a dealer will tell you your shocks need changing if they detect a leak during a service visit. They will always change them in "pairs" on the same axle, even if only one is bad. In my opinion, they are being a bit too "proactive" here. If you do the "bounce test" - (push down strongly on each corner of the vehicle and see if it settles in one rebound), your shocks can wait.

Of course, I've seen vehicles going down the road bouncing up and down like they were on "jelly", and those vehicles are totally unsafe. I've never seen a shock just suddenly "fail" due to total loss of a seal (about the only way they can fail I think). Mostly, they just start "seeping". I think you can put off service as long as you keep a close eye on things (the bounce test).

Going off road puts additional stress on things, so DO keep that eye on them if you follow the "delay" advice. I don't think towing is much of a factor.

A shock is used to dampen out the "springiness" in the suspension, so it doesn't just continue to oscillate up and down after a bump. Other than that, it has no real effect. A shock does not actively support the weight of the vehicle. But, a corner or an axle that is bouncing without being damped effects your control adversely.

And, if anyone disagrees, PLEASE don't be afraid to add your opinion. I've gone both ways in the past, changing them at the first sign of seepage and waiting till I had more money.

- Jack

Thanks for the advice, I will have to go check for seepage tomorrow when it's light, I think ill wait to replace them either way because I can't really afford it now... :/, I can do them myself at the shop on base so that should save some money.
Any reason why the front ones are double the price of the back ones? I would think that the back need to be better because of the variable weight above them compared to the relatively unchanging weight of the front of the truck... but that's just my thoughts.
Any specific brands work better than others?
Thanks again!

I've never changed my own, but I'm certain the labor is more involved on steering axles. I don't really think the fronts and rears are different - am I being naive here?

I don't have any brands to recommend either. Motorcraft is a sure bet, but I imagine any of the major brands will do as well in this case.

- Jack

I put in a leveling kit myself (highly recommended to anyone that wants one), it came with really easy simple directions on how to take out the front shocks/strut assembly, then the shop here should be able to help getting the actual shock out of the spring area (gotta love my non technical terms). I guess the fronts might include the costs of the whole thing, not just the shocks inside... easier install that way though, but idk if it's worth the extra $100 per shock to do it that way... sure hope someone who knows more than us chimes in... :)

My buddy just changed his 05 shocks out and his fronts cost over a $100 more than his rears did. I THINK he said it was something to do with the fronts being struts and not just regular shocks.

He also took and put the 4x4 shocks on the back for a little extra support as he regularly tows with his. He purchased the shock/struts at O'reilly's for about $350 total cost.

Thanks! ill keep that in mind.

My Shocks
 

I replaced my shocks about 2 years ago on my 05. I did them early but I installed Bilstein 5100's which provided me with a 2" lift for the front. The fronts are probably more expensive due to them having to be able to support the springs and weight of the truck up front. The rears are as simple as doing 2 bolts. The fronts you need a spring compressor for and most auto hobby shops on military bases have them. That is where I did mine. You have to compress the spring, remove a nut and then the shock will drop out of the bottom and you will reuse the spring mounts on the new ones. Like I said, I did mine in an afternoon in the auto hobby shop. I would agree that if you do the bounce test and it passes that you will be fine for a while longer. If I recall correctly I had to disconnect the top of the steering knuckle to get the front shock out but you might have better luck than me.

Thanks for the info! I already have a leveling kit, but if all I need to do is put in a little longer shocks then I could sell the 3" procomp kit :D
The shop here does have the spring compressor so that sounds like it would work! thanks again!

oh and did you put the same ones in the back as the front? thanks!

At least on the 2wd, the fronts are "struts", the rears are "shocks", hence the difference in price. As already stated, the fronts require a little more labor and a specialty tool, so another difference in price. If you can get ahold of a spring compressor (HEAVY DUTY due to the size of the springs), then it is a very simple job and will save you some money.

Not sure if the 4wd has the same set-up, but I do know some of the parts are the same.

OK, now that everyone has pointed out how little I know, it all makes sense.

Yes, the fronts are "struts", the rears are "shocks". A strut has to dampen "springyness" like a shock, but also has to resist side forces (and this, of course is because there's no solid axle in the front?). So, it's a bit more complicated than a simple shock. And, it combines the front suspension spring, while on the rear, that part is separate.

But, I stand by my opinion that a shock/strut really doesn't have to be changed immediately just because it's seeping. I don't think they fail catastrophically. And, if the spring portion of the strut were broken, you probably wouldn't want to drive the truck at all, but I doubt that's the problem. So, if it's a seeping shock portion, I rely on the bounce test until I have the money.

- Jack

Awesome! and thanks for all the help! :D

Probably worth exactly what you've paid for it! :hehe: (I learned that in my Air Force days.)

- Jack

:hehe::smiley_roll1: I sure hope it save's me money... but dont expect me to pay anyone what I saved... ;)

Jack,

It wasn't meant to prove how much you do or do not know, just provide some info. ;) ;) I also agree with you, no need to replace at this time; just keep an eye on it.

George

George - PLEASE don't ever hesitate to correct me when I'm wrong! One thing I do not want to do, is put out bad advice/information. As our friend shotgun is fond of quoting from a talk by Gen Powell: "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement." Substitute "knowledge" for "judgment", and "mistakes" for "experience" and you understand my philosophy. I don't like to be wrong, but I hate it even more when I'm wrong and don't know it.

I'm always grateful when people take the time to educate me. :thumbs up yellow:

- Jack

So I finally got around to checking on the shocks myself, and I looked at what the dealer said... Shocks are fine, and they just said to replace them because they are rated for 50,000 miles and I already have 70,000 miles. Guess I can save the money for the future! :D
Thanks for all the help and advice!

THAT, is a new one on me! I would not touch them if the bounce test says they're good!

- Jack

My next set will be the Bilsteins.....

I did look into king shocks and wow!
A set of those will set you back a lot....

That is what Ill probably get when it comes time...