questions
 

Looking to get a php phoenix, new to this forum and to diesels altogether. I have never owned a chip or programmer in anything. I want reliability and don't think I need any high performance tunes. I want to use it for towing and in town and on highways. All stock except intake, exhaust. I have a 28' tow behind toy hauler that weights about 8400 empty. Add a few quads and bikes and weight jumps about 2000#s then add a hundred gallons of water, 800#s. Plus I live in eastern Montana and usually head towards western Montana, so some good mountain elevations. Also it used as a daily driver and some highway trips without the camper. Just wondering what everyone would recommend for me. Don't think I need any of the high performance mode since I am all stock. Let me know and thank-you....I am sure you have heard this a million times. what I have is a 2001 ford excursion 4x4, 7.3, automatic 138,000 miles, ,mbrp 4" turbo back, autometer gauges, boost, trans temp and e g ts, tekonsha prodigy brake controller, firestone airbags, oversized tires

First of all welcome! What kind of intake are you running? K&N or oiled applications havent been shown to be good to these motors.. I suggest a 6637 DIY intake any day..

Anyway thats some heavy towing there but not a problem for the 7.3. You already have the gauges to monitor everything going on.

And dont think you dont need high HP tunes, lol I am very happy with them, and actually I've gotten very HIGH MPG's with them. If you dont drive with your foot to the floor all the time, it wont harm your truck.

Theres alotta power to be harnessed and its nice when you can USE it.
Hope that helps. :)

hello dietoremain
 

thank you. i have the big Donaldson DIY, forgot to say that. What programs you running on you FU? Towing...playing?

Everything... 80dd, 80 tow, 100, 120 race, whisper, smoke, sorta want swap out the high idle and a diff tow maybe :).

Reliability? Leave it stock.

However, the Phoenix product page of the website has guidelines on horsepower levels and towing weight: Power Hungry Performance - Phoenix™ Chip

^what he said. And btw my truck has been tuned for over 30k and I wouldnt hesitate to do it again, reliability hasnt gone down one bit, I drive it well, not like a mad man...

oops...
 

i redid my trailer numbers
trailer 9460
quads and bikes 1500
water 660
gas 150

for a grand total of 11,770! heavy

more ?s
 

does the chip get rid of the automatic warm up excursion has now?
do I end up with a touchy pedal?

No and no.

ok
 

Glad there won't be a touchy pedal. So then with the general weights I gave which goes would you recommend? Also its going to be this spring early summer before I tow anything with my ex, so if i have any issues in the tow modes am I outta luck?

just put my order in
 

looking forward to getting it....went with
1 stock
2 high idle 1100
3 dd80
4 40 tow
5 65 tow
6 100 hi perf


thanks for your help

Looks good to me. I wouldn't have done anything different myself!

and...
 

Any idea how long before I get it delivered? And I just read somewhere on here I may be getting a flickering check engine light, true or not?

Where did you read that?

In the "internal module install" for my year vehicle. On this site.

Could you post a link to the specific page?

here you go
 

[PDF]
1999 - 2003 Ford E-250/350/Super Duty Internal Module Installation ...http://www.gopowerhungry.com/.../Int...%20Install%20- ...

1999 - 2003 Ford F-250/350/Super Duty
Internal Module Installation Instructions
Before going any further,
**REMOVE KEY FROM IGNITION**
We will not be responsible for any damage to the PCM
caused by leaving the key on during installation
Open the hood and locate the computer (PCM) harness connector. It is located on the driver's side firewall, beneath the brake
master cylinder and next to the fender. The connector is rectangle shaped, approx. 1" x 6" with a 10mm bolt in the center. Using
a 10mm socket, remove the connector from the PCM. The bolt is attached to the connector and DOES NOT come out.
From beneath the dash locate the PCM. It is mounted next the parking brake assembly. Remove the two (2) bolts that hold the
PCM case to the mounting bracket and set aside. Grasp the rear of the case, shift it to the right (towards the center of the
vehicle), and firmly pull away from the firewall.
Remove the PCM from the case. Remove and save the gold colored ground tab from the plastic case. Also remove and save the
black plastic cap from the rear of the PCM.
Many PCMs will have a coating of lithium (white) grease covering the connector. Remove the grease using a cloth or paper
towel. There will also be a coating of clear silicone covering the connector.
Use the provided Scotch-Brite® pad to clear away the silicone. Acetone (nail polish remover) helps to clean the connector. (Note
- DO NOT USE CARB CLEANER OR LACQUER THINNER!! Damage to the PCM can result!!) BOTH sides of the connector
must be cleaned thoroughly. If you are cleaning the connector and begin to see copper, you are cleaning too far. This may result
in a poorly fitting or “loose” module.
Failure to properly clean the connector may cause the vehicle not to start and/or may damage either the module or the PCM.
Any module that has failed due to improper installation WILL NOT be covered under warranty. Please note: 95% of all tech calls
can usually be traced back to poorly cleaned contacts. Please take your time and clean the PCM connector thoroughly as it will
save you unwanted headaches down the road.
It is recommended that you open the PCM case by removing the 6 case bolts with a 7/32” socket. This allows complete access
to BOTH sides of the connector to ensure that it is clean. The PCM circuit board is sealed and is quite robust. However, to avoid
damage from static discharge, it is recommended that you avoid contact with any of the internal components wherever possible.
Once completed, reassemble the PCM case BEFORE installing the module onto the connector. This ensures that you do not
accidentally install the module upside down.
Fasten the module to the PCM using fiberglass duct or packaging tape. Reinsert the PCM in the case, being careful not to crimp
or cut the switch wires between the case and the PCM. Install the complete assembly back underneath the dashboard. The label
on the PCM connector should be facing the fender. Reconnect the PCM harness connector. Save the case bolts, ground tab and
plastic cap in case you should ever need to remove the module.
Turn on the ignition key and check for proper operation of the "Wait to Start" or “Glow Plug” light. If no light appears, TURN OFF
the ignition key, remove the module and re-clean the edge connector. Once the light operation is verified, start the vehicle and
verify that it appears to be operating correctly.
NOTE: The “Check Engine” light may blink very quickly, appearing as little more than a slight flicker. This is an acceptable

try this link, other one not working for some reason
 

slight flicker site:http://www.gopowerhungry.com

got it
 

copy and paste the total line below and then google it-from the s to m

slight flicker site:Power Hungry Performance - Feed your hunger for POWER!

Anybody have an idea on this flickering?

I haven't seen that before, and I haven't seen it in my truck, so I don't expect you to get one, but if you do, like it says, there isn't anything to worry about :)