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2004 to 2008 F-150 and Mark-LT 4.2L, 4.6L and 5.4L equipped F-150s and Mark-LTs. |
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#1
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Instrument cluster problem!
I installed new US Speedo gauges. They FINALLY work right but now a bulb is burnt out. (picking one up from Ford on Wednesday). But the "real" problem is the info screen reads out nothing now. First it stopped lighting up (need new bulb). Now it no longer displays odometer, trip, temp, direction. Ford couldn't help me over the phone. Does anyone know how to fix this problem? I am 99% sure I have no blown fuses. I checked with a test light. I have also made sure the harness is plugged in properly and that the connection on the cluster where the screen connects to the circuit board is right.
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2nd place is 1st's loser! 2012 FX4 Waldoch M80 Edition Supercrew, 3.5L Ecoboost, Flowmaster Exhaust, K&N Air Filter, Road Armor Grill Guard, huge smile! |
#2
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I fixed my problem. For anyone who ever has to assemble an instrument cluster after you have removed the back, make sure the little metal plugs go in to the readout. They tend to push past instead of going into place. After further investigation, I realized they did not go back into proper place. Everything works now! . And the gauges work great. US Speedo has great tech support and we got them dialed in with no further problems. If anyone starts such a project and needs help, just hit me up and I'd be glad to help.
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2nd place is 1st's loser! 2012 FX4 Waldoch M80 Edition Supercrew, 3.5L Ecoboost, Flowmaster Exhaust, K&N Air Filter, Road Armor Grill Guard, huge smile! |
#3
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Glad to hear you're all working again.
Question for you, how did you get your gauges dialed in? My fuel gauge needle is still a 1/4 tank off since I replaced all my bulbs with red leds. I had to pull the needles to take the gauge face off and sand the green off the back so the red comes through properly. I don't want to take it all apart again unless I have to, already superglued some of the needles back together after pulling them the first time.
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#4
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I hope I can help. When you have your dash somewhat apart but before you touch your instrument cluster. Unplug both harnesses and remove remove the plastic cover of your instrument cluster. Once that is removed and everything is unplugged, move the fuel needle straight down past the empty mark. Then remove the needle as your move the needle backwards. Once removed your can plug the harnesses back in. After the needles have stopped twitching put the needle one in the exact postion you want to start in. Mine goes on slightly below the empty mark. Push it on but now all the way. Unplug the harness and then move the need towards the full mark. Then plug the harness back in and the needle should fall back to the point in which you started, if not start over. Test if several times to make sure it functions properly. Taking the dash apart over and over is totally frustrating. Once you are confident that it is working properly push in down a little further but do not push it flush to the face. If you do, it will more than likely hang up and not provide accurate reading. Leave about an 1/8 or so gap. Then of course put it all back together. You should be able to do all of this without removing the back of the instrument cluster or any of the other needles. Unless of course you need to adjust them as well and then just do the same as you did to fix your fuel guage. Hope this helps bro. Let me know how you turn out.
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2nd place is 1st's loser! 2012 FX4 Waldoch M80 Edition Supercrew, 3.5L Ecoboost, Flowmaster Exhaust, K&N Air Filter, Road Armor Grill Guard, huge smile! |
#5
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Thanks a lot! I didn't even think of putting the needles back on when the plastic cover was off and it is plugged in. Right now I am driving with the cover off thinking that I could have just pushed the needle to where it had to be. Well that didn't work. I also know what you're saying about not putting the needles on too far, I had 1 or 2 hang up the first time I put them back on. What is the best thing to remove the needles, a fork? I used a small plastic door panel pry bar back when I pulled them before but maybe a fork would be easier and have better leverage.
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#6
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A fork works great actually! As I said before. Unplug to take the needles off. Plug in and wait for them to stop twitching. Put them on in the exact place you had them originally. All my small needles were slightly below the low marks on the dash background. MPH is about a 1/4 inch below 10, and rpms needle was slightly above 0. Once the needles are in place, unplug again. Move the needles to mock what they do when driving. Plug back in and the needles should fall to the starting spot just like if you turned your truck off. Test again, following the same steps. If they work properly, button everything back up and enjoy your custom mod.
__________________
2nd place is 1st's loser! 2012 FX4 Waldoch M80 Edition Supercrew, 3.5L Ecoboost, Flowmaster Exhaust, K&N Air Filter, Road Armor Grill Guard, huge smile! |
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