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2004 to 2008 F-150 and Mark-LT
4.2L, 4.6L and 5.4L equipped F-150s and Mark-LTs.


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  #1  
Old Mon, May 18th, 2009, 12:08 PM
MyMuddyTruck MyMuddyTruck is offline
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First of all, I apologize for the long post. I've been running my truck on level 2 for a couple of weeks now, all stock except for the e-fans. On Friday, I wanted to try level 3 so once my gas tank was empty, I topped off with 91 octane. I went home, returned my truck to stock. I then programmed it to level 3. I went for a drive down one of the back roads here to see what it could do. I did several wot runs and I could not feel any difference between level 2 or 3. I don't know if that might be a clue to what happened next. As I was returning home, some crazy stuff happened. First, the truck started shaking bad. It was an exagerated shaking. I thought the engine was going to fall off. The a/c then started blowing really hot air. As I pulled over, I looked at the gages on my gryphon. The ECT which never goes over 200 was at 230; however, the temp gage on my truck never moved. The TFT which is normally between 154-168 was 203. My Batt Volts were bouncing from the high 12 to 14. I shut the truck off. I returned the programming to stock since that and the 91 octane gas were the only thing that has changed. After returning it to stock, my truck started up fine and as I started driving home, all temps went down to normal and even a/c was working fine. Once I got home, I tried it again to see if it was the programmer. I programmed it to level 3 took it out for a drive and the same thing happened. I return to stock, it runs fine. I programmed it to level 2, it runs fine. On level 2, I did some wot runs to see if I could get the same thing to happen and have not been able to. Since Friday, I have burned through that tank, filled up with 88 octane, what I normally use, and used up that tank. I have not had any problems.
Before I call and disturb Bill, I wanted to know if this has happened to anyone else or am I doing something wrong? Should I contact Bill to see if I need to return the programmer so that he can check it out or should I just call a Priest and have an exorcism performed on my truck?
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Old Mon, May 18th, 2009, 01:17 PM
442w30 442w30 is offline
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Just got mine and the only thing I am experiencing is a mild surge on very very very light acceleration. It does it in both 2 and 3. Like the results other than this glitch. I was going to run a couple of tanks before calling PHP, I burn through about 80 gallons a week so it wont be long.
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Old Mon, May 18th, 2009, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyMuddyTruck View Post
First of all, I apologize for the long post. I've been running my truck on level 2 for a couple of weeks now, all stock except for the e-fans. On Friday, I wanted to try level 3 so once my gas tank was empty, I topped off with 91 octane. I went home, returned my truck to stock. I then programmed it to level 3. I went for a drive down one of the back roads here to see what it could do. I did several wot runs and I could not feel any difference between level 2 or 3. I don't know if that might be a clue to what happened next. As I was returning home, some crazy stuff happened. First, the truck started shaking bad. It was an exagerated shaking. I thought the engine was going to fall off. The a/c then started blowing really hot air. As I pulled over, I looked at the gages on my gryphon. The ECT which never goes over 200 was at 230; however, the temp gage on my truck never moved. The TFT which is normally between 154-168 was 203. My Batt Volts were bouncing from the high 12 to 14. I shut the truck off. I returned the programming to stock since that and the 91 octane gas were the only thing that has changed. After returning it to stock, my truck started up fine and as I started driving home, all temps went down to normal and even a/c was working fine. Once I got home, I tried it again to see if it was the programmer. I programmed it to level 3 took it out for a drive and the same thing happened. I return to stock, it runs fine. I programmed it to level 2, it runs fine. On level 2, I did some wot runs to see if I could get the same thing to happen and have not been able to. Since Friday, I have burned through that tank, filled up with 88 octane, what I normally use, and used up that tank. I have not had any problems.
Before I call and disturb Bill, I wanted to know if this has happened to anyone else or am I doing something wrong? Should I contact Bill to see if I need to return the programmer so that he can check it out or should I just call a Priest and have an exorcism performed on my truck?
I assume you are running the canned tunes?

I also see you are running a cai or did you switch it back to a stock air setup?

If you are running canned tunes you are not to go over level 2 canned with no more than 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and no aggresive driving!

With level 3 canned you introduced your truck to a "lean" condition and might want to check it for codes.

Lars
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Old Mon, May 18th, 2009, 03:13 PM
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I think Lars has diagnosed what happened correctly, MyMuddy. The combination of Level 3 and a CAI might well have put you into a lean condition. The Level 3 tune is actually leaner than stock, I believe, so it's kind of a "double whammy". Possibly, the lean running also keeps you from seeing much of an improvement in performance too.

I'd do what he says. Keep it on level 2 and try to keep your foot out of it until you get custom tunes that account for the CAI.

As an aside, the PCM will shut down the A/C if it senses the engine is under extreme load and lean operation can cause engine temperatures to rise (but, I would not count on seeing this on the pathetic dash gauge - this is one reason I monitor CHT on my Gryphon). WOT runs are going to heat up the TFT, and it doesn't take much to do this. I've seen mine go higher than yours did when I'm towing up a long, steep grade that forces me into 2nd gear and keeps the torque converter unlocked. The shaking COULD have been an attempt by the PCM to regulate (unsuccessfully) the A/F ratio. I don't have an explanation for the battery voltage bounce though.

- Jack
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Old Mon, May 18th, 2009, 04:28 PM
MyMuddyTruck MyMuddyTruck is offline
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I have a cai on my profile but as I stated in the post, I am only running with e-fans. I put the stock intake back on since the cai had a bad drone with the programmer. I have read about the lean conditions with the cai and level 3. Sorry about the confusion. I was trying to keep the post as short a possible.
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Old Mon, May 18th, 2009, 04:31 PM
MyMuddyTruck MyMuddyTruck is offline
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Also, the truck didn't start going crazy on my until I was on my way home. I had already done wot a few times. But when it happened I was driving normal with no stress on the engine and thats when it started.
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Old Mon, May 18th, 2009, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Groovy Chick View Post
Where'd you see the CAI info, Lars? I think I'm losing it. That was my first thought, but I saw

I've been running my truck on level 2 for a couple of weeks now, all stock except for the e-fans.

and dismissed the idea. If you're running a CAI, muddy, I've no doubt that's the issue.

I've sent Bill an e-mail to this thread, so he can pop in and give his .
I seen it in his user cp and just assumed it wasn't switched. My bad he did switch it. So something else is amiss?

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Old Mon, May 18th, 2009, 06:02 PM
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I saw the CAI in the UserCP too.

So, since you're stock, if sounds like a problem with the canned tune. I'll add, though, that an ECT reading of 230 sounds pretty high. I wonder if the CHT got above 250? If it did, then your truck was likely in "failsafe" mode (shuts off 4 cylinders to cool things down and gives you "limp home" capability).

It would be instructive to know what your CHT was. "Failsafe" is commanded at 258 degrees.

However, I don't see why a few WOT runs would heat up your engine that much.

- Jack
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Old Mon, May 18th, 2009, 06:14 PM
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"Both" efans kicking in when they are supposed to?

Maybe a bad controller or relay?

Just trying to figure it out too!

If you have access to a "point and shoot" IR gun aim it at the upper radiator hose to get the best temp to dial in the controller.

Lars
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