The kd4crs/Power Hungry/Gotts Mod (revisited - and with pictures)

[Jackpine]

Just painted my hose clamp! Can't wait till it dries so I can put it back on and see how much better my CAI performs!

- Jack

[kd4crs]

That and a PHP sticker on your back window will add at least 35 more horsepower to your truck!

[88Racing]

Great ideas everyone shure beets the price of a cai!
Jack,
Might stop at a hardware store or plumbing wholesale house and get some ideas Friday or this week end of what could go into the fender well hole that would not interfear with the inner diameter of the hole and does not have to remove the lip, but can be easily be removed. I will post it if I find something.

-Lars
Forgive the spelling, life on a blackberry!

[SinCityFX4]

You could use those thick coupler pieces and cut a line around the
Outer edge so it seats in the fender well.

[Jackpine]

I've seen flex metal tubing that looks pretty similar to what AgentOrange used in Ace Hardware and Home Depot. He said it required NO fender modification. I've seen flex PVC online in pool supply sources, but I have yet to find it in a "brick and mortar" store. Plumbing wholesale might be a good source, Lars.

SinCity, I don't think I understand what you are proposing. I doubt any of the couplers I've seen are long enough to get into the outer fender well, and, It's not clear to me how you are cutting it?

- Jack

[SinCityFX4]

Well, I was thinking about a setup like MArk has on his then using a regular coupler like the 1st pic and then using a razor knife to cut a lip in in it so it seats. Or using something like the second pic on the bottom if I can find the right piece.

I am using my old intake and trying to make one for my neighbor who cannot use his hands very well (stroke). He does not want to cut or hurt his truck so I am using mine to make it and try and find a way so I dont alter his truck other than the intake from mine. You guys have given me a ton of ideas.

[Jackpine]

OK, take pictures of what you come up with!

- Jack

[88Racing]

I think I might know where sincity is going with this correct me if I am wrong. Take a no hub coupler like Jack has left over and make sure it has the same ID as the pipe or am I thinking wrong? I know they make a 3x2.5" reducer coupler(problem with this one it has a rib where the 2 pipes meet) or like the 3" one Jack used. Or take the 3" coupler and try that in there also? Is it long enough or will the sides kink in and cause less air flow/turbulance?

-Lars

[kd4crs]

These are all good ideas but I think folks are over-engineering, and over-thinking things a bit. To clarify what I mean I will go ahead and post the instructions, materials list, and pictures for the DWV intake. It really is about as simple and as easy as it gets, no grinding, no fitting, no painiting. Once Bill posts the write up I sent him I will edit this to comply with his wishes. See below:


DWV intake mod for the 2004-2008 F150 with 5.4L engine



Materials:

1. 7.5 inch length of 3 inch inside diameter black ABS DWV pipe.

2. One female-to-female 3 inch black ABS coupler.

3. One rubber downspout connector from the plumbing section of Lowes or Home Depot.

4. One 4 inch stainless steel worm clamp.

5. Small container of ABS pipe glue.



Assembly:

1. Cut black ABS pipe to length and remove any burrs from the ends.

2. Apply a light coat of ABS pipe glue to the end of the black ABS DWV pipe in a one inch wide strip. Apply a light coat of ABS glue to the inside of one end of the female coupler and immediately press the coupler into the black ABS DWV pipe with a twisting motion to fully seat the pipe into the coupler. Allow to dry 30 minutes.

3. Attach rubber downspout connector over end of female coupler and seat fully.



Installation:

1. Remove stock intake tube by removing 10mm bolt holding it in place.

2. Using a large flat blade screwdriver, insert it in the joint at the end of the flex section on the bottom where the notch is in order to remove the snorkel. Spraying silicone lubricant or WD-40 in the joint will help it come out easily. Be careful not to damage the flex section or snorkel in case you need to return to stock.

3. Loosen 4 inch stainless steel worm clamp and slip over end of flex section. Tighten the worm clamp enough that it will not fall off.

4. Insert the end of the 3 inch black ABS DWV pipe into the flex section of the intake and slide it into the flex section as far as it will go.

5. Reinstall stock intake tube and replace 10mm bolt.

6. Slide the 3 inch black ABS DWV pipe out of the flex section and seat the downspout adapter in the fender hole while compressing the flex section.

7. While holding the flex section compressed, tighten the stainless steel worm clamp to hold the black ABS DWV pipe in place.

IMPORTANT: If the flex section is not compressed the DWV intake mod may vibrate or rattle.

Pictures:


Ingredients for the DWV intake mod

Finished DWV intake mod

No restrictions here! Full 3 inch diameter end to end.
Additional pictures are in my gallery.

[Jackpine]

So, looking back at the pictures you posted, the downspout connector compresses enough to get in, and through both fender holes so it gets the air from the original source? I have to say I never thought of looking for a downspout connector (and I don't know that I've ever noticed something like that here).

Of course, it may not be necessary to get the air from that original source, but, as I said in an earlier post, here in the Arizona summers, I want to avoid as much heat as possible.

- Jack