0-60 & 1/4 mile Times

[cajunboy2208]

Hope these resize automatically...
Best time was a 15.65 and that was with me editing my already custom tune...
The Gryphon said I would run 15.1s, well, it lied. lol. A good .5-.7 secs off my actual runs.

The last one I was going against my buddies 96 Z28. I was surprised I beat him in the 60' mark. I had 2.312 to his 2.331. The low end torque on these trucks are amazing!

[Power Hungry]

Originally Posted by cajunboy2208

Hope these resize automatically...
Best time was a 15.65 and that was with me editing my already custom tune...

I do want to point out that you can have a significant change in top speed just from a small change in engine temperature. When I ran our 6.0L at the track, I saw anywhere from 93 to 97.6 MPH as the track temp, engine temp, and even the ambient air temp changed.

In looking at your E/T's, they are actually very comparable, with the modified custom tune run having a slightly better reaction time and 60' time (ie. a better launch) and accounting for most of the difference between the modified and unmodified 87 custom tune runs.

What's interesting is your R/T was .022 different, at 60' this changes to .055 difference, and then by 330' this dropped down to .031. This would indicate possibly a little wheelspin coming off the line in the Custom Only run, which may also help account for the lower 1/4 mile E/T and MPH.

Originally Posted by cajunboy2208

The Gryphon said I would run 15.1s, well, it lied. lol. A good .5-.7 secs off my actual runs.

We've told everyone for years that the 1/4 mile testing on the Gryphon/Evolution is not always 100% accurate. It does the best that can based on calculated acceleration rates and distance traveled. Since there is no way to actually measure the distance traveled, if it is showing a lower ET then it's probably coming up a little short on the calculated distance. We generally use the built-in measurements (1/4 mile and 0-60) for a general comparison between tunes. However, the drag strip is the final word in your actual 1/4 mile times.

Overall, nice runs. Mid 15's is about what we'd expect to see from a solid running F-150. Glad you could share those with us.

[cajunboy2208]

Thanks. I plan on going back 2 more time by the end of the year. Sometime soon, whenever I get around to installed my LT headers and get a new 93 custom tune, and then once more toward the end of the year after I get an e-fan, and possibly a Caltrec suspension system

[widj64]

I just got the tunes today
2006 F150 5.4L supercab 6.5ft bed with canopy, magnaflow exaust, K&N CAI, gryphon tuner 87 towing and I get 7.85 at 0 60 is that ok?

the canopy is quite heavy and I have some camping gear in the bed, how much would I gain removing the canopy and else?

since I changed the rear brakes with ventilated drilled brakes I can't burn the tires while braking anymore.. any suggestions?

[Longshot270]

Originally Posted by widj64

I just got the tunes today
2006 F150 5.4L supercab 6.5ft bed with canopy, magnaflow exaust, K&N CAI, gryphon tuner 87 towing and I get 7.85 at 0 60 is that ok?

the canopy is quite heavy and I have some camping gear in the bed, how much would I gain removing the canopy and else?

since I changed the rear brakes with ventilated drilled brakes I can't burn the tires while braking anymore.. any suggestions?

Put smooth rotors back on and put drilled up front.

Add more power/gear lower/much smaller tires.

Less braking. You shouldn't need to use too much brake pedal to burn the back, especially with the 5.4.

[widj64]

Originally Posted by Longshot270

Put smooth rotors back on and put drilled up front.

Add more power/gear lower/much smaller tires.

Less braking. You shouldn't need to use too much brake pedal to burn the back, especially with the 5.4.

so do a brake swap between smooth front brakes and rear drilled brakes?
that's going to cost me at least $100 eh :p

what do you mean by "Add more power/gear lower/much smaller tires"
how do I change gear or add more power? the tires are the stock ones

thanks!

[Longshot270]

Originally Posted by widj64

so do a brake swap between smooth front brakes and rear drilled brakes?
that's going to cost me at least $100 eh :p

what do you mean by "Add more power/gear lower/much smaller tires"
how do I change gear or add more power? the tires are the stock ones

thanks!

The problem for you is that braking is not only disproportionate but your back wheels have the better rotors. The front brakes are stronger than the back but they are biting into smooth rotors while the weaker rear rotors are biting into drilled rotors. When you do a braked burnout, you are having to over power the rear rotors while keeping the front rotors locked in position.

A lower set of gears in the back or smaller tires will give the engine more of a mechanical advantage for over powering the brakes.