Custom Tune Installed

[DarrenWS6]

Originally Posted by JackandJanet

I don't know about the idle going up after everything is "learned". Mine never idled that low at all. It's always been about 600 RPM (using the dashboard tach), and since it was smooth and things were charging and it didn't want to "creep" with my foot off the brake, I saw no reason to change it. But, 480 RPM IS pretty low. I wonder if it's enough to charge the battery at idle with the lights and accessories on? If not, I'd raise it. Most people have theirs in the 600-650 range.

I saw your post over on f150Online and was a bit puzzled by one member's statement that Bill said to have the max RPM 200 above the WOT shift points. Both Bluejay and I remember him saying 400 above. But, since Bill lives here, he can set us straight. I know 400 above works well for me except in the 3-4 shift, where it needs to be more (which is one reason I have my 3-4 shift down in the 4400-4500 range). When I had that shift point higher, I had to let off on the gas to help it through that shift.

The Edge manual does say put the max RPM 150 above the WOT shift points, but I think that's just plain wrong.

DO NOT raise the spark timing on any of your tunes unless you put in a higher octane gas than the tune was designed for.

Bluejay published the adjustments he did for when he was running canned Edge tunes. Once he got the custom tunes, he's left everything exactly as Bill has set it up except for the tires, he went to bigger ones after ordering his tunes.

- Jack

Well let me better explain the idle issue. Coming to a stop at a slow speed ( 30mph to 5mph ) basically approaching a red light or stop sign, from the Gryphon readout it drops down to near 480 then varies in the low 500 - high 500, then acceleration is perfect, but it seems quite low for an idle in gear. I tried raising the idle before but it only let me increase it to 300rpm? Does that mean 300rpm overall? or 300rpm over the normal 600rpm? I dont understand how this works.

Thanks again Jack for the clarification, much appreciated

[Jackpine]

Originally Posted by DarrenWS6

Well let me better explain the idle issue. Coming to a stop at a slow speed ( 30mph to 5mph ) basically approaching a red light or stop sign, from the Gryphon readout it drops down to near 480 then varies in the low 500 - high 500, then acceleration is perfect, but it seems quite low for an idle in gear. I tried raising the idle before but it only let me increase it to 300rpm? Does that mean 300rpm overall? or 300rpm over the normal 600rpm? I dont understand how this works.

Thanks again Jack for the clarification, much appreciated

Good questions, Darren - don't stop asking them. I think you're seeing an RPM dip as you apply the brakes while you're still rolling? And, if this is the case, I've not seen it (probably because I haven't looked) and I don't have a clue if this is normal or not. Back in the bad old days we used to have a damper in the carburetor to prevent sudden drops like that (which could stall the engine).

However, it sounds like maybe your idle RPM is fairly normal (in the 600 range) when you are just sitting there stopped? And, when you step on the gas, everything increases normally? If this is the case, then I don't think there's anything to worry about.

About the only thing you need to worry about in the idle setting is: "Is it charging my battery?" If you see voltage (on the Gryphon, which I monitor) in the 13.5-14.0 volt range in idle with lights and accessories on, you're OK. Underdirive pulleys can reduce the alternator output and may require you to increase the idle speed. And, in case you wondered why I monitor voltage, it's because I sometimes pull a trailer with two batteries and a refrigerator on board. So, that's a pretty heavy electrical load.

The adjustment in idle in the Custom Options menu is plus or minus from the "baseline" RPM. So, if Bill set your idle RPM at 600, and you adjusted it to +100, you should see 700 RPM (approximately) when stopped. I say approximately, because I suspect the drag of the TC will have some effect on the final result.

- Jack

[DarrenWS6]

Originally Posted by JackandJanet

Good questions, Darren - don't stop asking them. I think you're seeing an RPM dip as you apply the brakes while you're still rolling? And, if this is the case, I've not seen it (probably because I haven't looked) and I don't have a clue if this is normal or not. Back in the bad old days we used to have a damper in the carburetor to prevent sudden drops like that (which could stall the engine).

However, it sounds like maybe your idle RPM is fairly normal (in the 600 range) when you are just sitting there stopped? And, when you step on the gas, everything increases normally? If this is the case, then I don't think there's anything to worry about.

About the only thing you need to worry about in the idle setting is: "Is it charging my battery?" If you see voltage (on the Gryphon, which I monitor) in the 13.5-14.0 volt range in idle with lights and accessories on, you're OK. Underdirive pulleys can reduce the alternator output and may require you to increase the idle speed. And, in case you wondered why I monitor voltage, it's because I sometimes pull a trailer with two batteries and a refrigerator on board. So, that's a pretty heavy electrical load.

The adjustment in idle in the Custom Options menu is plus or minus from the "baseline" RPM. So, if Bill set your idle RPM at 600, and you adjusted it to +100, you should see 700 RPM (approximately) when stopped. I say approximately, because I suspect the drag of the TC will have some effect on the final result.

- Jack

I am seeing it during breaking, so I suppose it is normal? Hopefully. I monitor everything like a hawk, even look at my dipstick every week lol. Ok i'll keep that in mind, The most work my battery usually does is play music with the windows down while i'm working outside or at a campfire, nothing real major. I still have the stock battery too, it is indeed a trooper. And thanks for clarifying the idle adjusting for me, thats exactly what I wanted to know. And obviously, returning it to 0 will be normal idle? Jack, thanks yet again for the information, much appreciated. Learning more and more every day.

[Jackpine]

Originally Posted by DarrenWS6

I am seeing it during breaking, so I suppose it is normal? Hopefully. I monitor everything like a hawk, even look at my dipstick every week lol. Ok i'll keep that in mind, The most work my battery usually does is play music with the windows down while i'm working outside or at a campfire, nothing real major. I still have the stock battery too, it is indeed a trooper. And thanks for clarifying the idle adjusting for me, thats exactly what I wanted to know. And obviously, returning it to 0 will be normal idle? Jack, thanks yet again for the information, much appreciated. Learning more and more every day.

Yes, Darren, setting the idle in the Custom Options menu back to zero will put it at the stock tune setting that Bill created for you.

There may be an easier way though to get totally back to the "virgin" custom tune - just program it in and completely bypass the Custom Options step. Or, if you want to have a "Previous Settings" file that is mostly "virgin", open the Custom Options menu but DO NOT "Load Previous Settings". If I've got this right, you are now in the process of creating a NEW "Previous Settings" file, but most of the settings are what Bill wrote for you. There are two exceptions though - Tire Size (TS) and Gear Ratio (GR). One or both of those values will now likely be wrong and you'll have to manually set them. Check both and adjust as necessary. Then, scroll to "Done" and let it program. The new Previous Settings file will hold Bill's values and your TS and GR.

As I said though, I don't know if the RPM drop during braking is normal or not, since I don't recall ever looking at it. I don't think I get that big a drop, but I cannot be sure.

And, I'd give Bill's settings a try before trying to "customize" them. After all, it's what you paid him for. Also, if you don't like something in them, it's probably best to discuss that with Bill, so he can fix the root cause, which is different than you putting a "band aid" on it with "Custom Options".

- Jack

[DarrenWS6]

Originally Posted by JackandJanet

Yes, Darren, setting the idle in the Custom Options menu back to zero will put it at the stock tune setting that Bill created for you.

There may be an easier way though to get totally back to the "virgin" custom tune - just program it in and completely bypass the Custom Options step. Or, if you want to have a "Previous Settings" file that is mostly "virgin", open the Custom Options menu but DO NOT "Load Previous Settings". If I've got this right, you are now in the process of creating a NEW "Previous Settings" file, but most of the settings are what Bill wrote for you. There are two exceptions though - Tire Size (TS) and Gear Ratio (GR). One or both of those values will now likely be wrong and you'll have to manually set them. Check both and adjust as necessary. Then, scroll to "Done" and let it program. The new Previous Settings file will hold Bill's values and your TS and GR.

As I said though, I don't know if the RPM drop during braking is normal or not, since I don't recall ever looking at it. I don't think I get that big a drop, but I cannot be sure.

And, I'd give Bill's settings a try before trying to "customize" them. After all, it's what you paid him for. Also, if you don't like something in them, it's probably best to discuss that with Bill, so he can fix the root cause, which is different than you putting a "band aid" on it with "Custom Options".

- Jack

That interesting to know. I looked at my settings earlier while I was out, I see Bill has it set 1-2 shift = 5100, 2-3 shift is also 5100, 3-4 shift is 4600, and rev limiter is 5600. I noticed that my avg econ was hanging in the 17 - 22 area, so i calculated some miles and compared my rpm and speed and realized that my tire circumfrence was wrong. It was 2340 something i think, and with the canned tune it was 2550, I did the math in the manual and came up with,, 255 x 70 x 0.02 ( 357 ) 17 x 25.4 ( 431.8 ) both together 788.8, and x that by the 3.1415 and got 2478.0, going to re-program that in the morning.

I'll definitely be testing out his settings. I was just wondering if there was any improvements I should make prior, but since its my truck and I have my driving style, I suppose I am the only one who can answer than question lol.

[Jackpine]

Originally Posted by DarrenWS6

That interesting to know. I looked at my settings earlier while I was out, I see Bill has it set 1-2 shift = 5100, 2-3 shift is also 5100, 3-4 shift is 4600, and rev limiter is 5600. I noticed that my avg econ was hanging in the 17 - 22 area, so i calculated some miles and compared my rpm and speed and realized that my tire circumfrence was wrong. It was 2340 something i think, and with the canned tune it was 2550, I did the math in the manual and came up with,, 255 x 70 x 0.02 ( 357 ) 17 x 25.4 ( 431.8 ) both together 788.8, and x that by the 3.1415 and got 2478.0, going to re-program that in the morning.

I'll definitely be testing out his settings. I was just wondering if there was any improvements I should make prior, but since its my truck and I have my driving style, I suppose I am the only one who can answer than question lol.

Darren, please look at my Q & A on the Custom Options menu. Any number you see in TS or GR in the Custom Options menu is likely to be "bogus". Does the 2478 you calculated account for "squish"? If not, subtract about 3% or about 74 mm from it and use that as a starting point.

You ARE NOT going to see the values for GR and TS that Bill put into your program if you open the Custom Options menu! I know this doesn't make sense, but, it's the way the software in the Gryphon functions. If you bypass the Custom Options menu though, you'll load correct TS and GR values (unless you've put in new gears or wheels since your tunes were written).

And, Bill tried to write tunes for you based on his understanding of your needs. I'd give them a chance. Oh, and I think the WOT shift points and max RPM Bill used was fine too.They're only about 100 above my settings and I asked for tunes that would save gas and give me good passing performance, not peal rubber off the tires from a standing start performance.

- Jack

[DarrenWS6]

Originally Posted by JackandJanet

Darren, please look at my Q & A on the Custom Options menu. Any number you see in TS or GR in the Custom Options menu is likely to be "bogus". Does the 2478 you calculated account for "squish"? If not, subtract about 3% or about 74 mm from it and use that as a starting point.

You ARE NOT going to see the values for GR and TS that Bill put into your program if you open the Custom Options menu! I know this doesn't make sense, but, it's the way the software in the Gryphon functions. If you bypass the Custom Options menu though, you'll load correct TS and GR values (unless you've put in new gears or wheels since your tunes were written).

And, Bill tried to write tunes for you based on his understanding of your needs. I'd give them a chance. Oh, and I think the WOT shift points and max RPM Bill used was fine too.They're only about 100 above my settings and I asked for tunes that would save gas and give me good passing performance, not peal rubber off the tires from a standing start performance.

- Jack

My gear ratio is correct ( 3.73 ) and I thought the 3.1415 was th squish factor. I do not have ( or have access ) to a GPS to verify my speed but I would think I did do the math correctly. I did record a mileage mis count though, from my house to my buds is exactly 3.0miles, I re-set the mileage counter and it told me 3.3 miles so I think the size is a little off and 1200rpm at 47mph cruising in 4th gear and overdrive, I dont believe thats possible, or is it? I'm checking out the Q&A right now.