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| Phoenix Switch-On-The-Fly Chip (DISCOUNTINUED) (Disabled) Power Hungry no longer sells the Phoenix/TS chip, but if you need custom tuning we can recommend a few really good tuners that will be able to still provide tuning and support for your chip. If you have any other questions or comments about the Phoenix/TS chip, please post it here. |
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#1
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Yep wts light and fuel pump(pulled the cap on the fuel bowl and its pumping in like normal) are working fine, can hear the gpr under the hood. put a scanner on it and it threw no codes. Someone told me an idm box but i dont know how to check it and its way to expensive to just go get one to see if its the problem. Thanks
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#2
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I wouldn't start throwing parts at it yet. What are you using for a scanner? I have some things for you to watch.
__________________
Tuning, PCM flashing, and burning chips for 7.3s since 2008. Repairing all aspects of 7.3L Powerstrokes for 25 years. Eight 7.3L PSDs in the driveway including a 1994 Crown Vic and 1973 F100/2002 F350. Looking for the next victim. |
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#3
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ive just got a lil cheap orielys scanner. dont have the money for anything big right now after all this just past. Anything i can just check?
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#4
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Watch the tach to be sure it is jumping up while cranking.
Is the oil pressure "gauge" showing oil pressure while cranking? Hows the cranking speed......... nice and fast with no flickering lights on the dash? |
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#5
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Tach isnt moving. Oil pressure gauge isnt moving. cranking is like normal speed, no lights. new issue is the rear cargo light is staying partially lit, "off" light in pass. side air bag switch is staying partially lit, radio is staying on, and some about 4x4" box with three connectors on it is clicking that is located in front of the drivers side battery box down behind the park light.
Last edited by stroker342gt; Mon, May 31st, 2010 at 11:38 PM. Reason: left a word out |
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#6
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Check ALL your ground connections.
Especially the body ground that attaches to the rear of the passenger side head and is routed to above the heater box. Also be sure the chassis ground is good, it is spliced into the ground cable at the end (driver side?) then bolts to the frame. If they appear OK but problem still persists you can temporarily add your own by using a set of jumper cables from the engine to the battery negative, and from the frame to battery negative. This will prove that there is (or isn't) a ground issue. Good Luck |
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#7
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Quote:
It sounds like you have a grounding problem or a short somewhere to me... |
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