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Gryphon Programmer (Disabled)
Edge Product has discontinued the Edge Evolution 2, but we still provide support and tuning for it.

If you have a question or comment relating the Gryphon (or Evolution) programmer, post it here.


 
 
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  #1  
Old Fri, June 18th, 2010, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackandJanet View Post
BigSur - I didn't notice any "spreading", as you put it, but you DO have to push the right side down so that the pod "snaps" on. This actually holds it in place very securely, which I see as a good thing.

Regarding using the custom options menu - I've spent a lot of time with this thing. I do not see any problem using it to set your TS and GR immediately after completing the first programming session without it. However, I'd be much more cautious about changing other parameters, especially if you have custom tunes. For this, I strongly recommend driving the truck "as is" for a while to figure out what it is that you need to change (if anything at all). Then, make sure you understand what it is you're changing!

To minimize confusing interactions, try to work with one thing at a time and TEST. And, resist the tendency to make big changes.

Remember, your tunes were written by a "pro". If you modify them, you ought to have a pretty good reason. I get very impatient with people who want to know, "How to make Bill's tunes better".

And, please don't hear me making any accusing statements toward you here. I just feel it's good to bring thee points up again since the subject comes up so often. I suspect you've done it, but if not, please read through the Q&A on Custom Options to get a better idea of what's going on.

- Jack
No, I don't take that wrong at all. That's a very good point. My plan is to correct TS and GR for my canned Level 2...and that's it. I personally have no desire whatsoever to start playing with parameters. Bill is the Engineer; I'll let him control that aspect.

I'm only having one issue that this programmer might help me with, which started well before I installed it. When I go from first to second gear, it seems to be a very hard shift, especially if I'm going really light on the accelerator. In May, I towed my camper down to NC, and I noticed that a couple of times when shifting from 1 to 2, I would physically "feel" a "bump" coming from the rear end. I haven't felt this much or at all since I've been home and not towing, but it still seems to shift hard at the low gear unless I'm into the pedal a little bit, i.e. shifting at higher RPMs.

Do you think this is normal or anything to be worried about? I'm wondering if I should have my transmission checked out. What do you think? I was actually going to post this in the transmission forum at F150 but you prompted me.
  #2  
Old Fri, June 18th, 2010, 11:05 AM
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It's fine to bring it up here, but the guys at f150online might have some ideas too.

It COULD be that your Torque Converter is locking too soon or is locked as you do the 1-2 upshift. This is one of the things you can monitor on the Gryphon and CS/CTS platforms. If you see a little "padlock" symbol next to the "Commanded" gear number, the TC is locked. That would tend to make the shift feel harder. The TC lock point is governed by both speed and power demand, so if the power demand is low, it may be locking prematurely.

I've felt what you describe at times pulling up a "mild" hill with a trailer and the TC locks in 3rd. Then, when it upshifts to 4th, it does so without unlocking and the shift is quite "harsh". I've also felt something like this at times when at a lower speed where I've come off the gas and then I step down on the pedal again, but not too hard - it feels like the transmission abruptly drops into a lower gear and there's a hard "clunk" and "lurch".

In Custom Options, you can delay the TC locking for any of the gears, by ADDING to the "zero" value that you'll see there. You can change it +/-2 in 1st, +/-3 in 2nd, +/-5 in 3rd and +/-10 in 4th I think. If you put in negative values, it causes the TC to lock sooner and stay locked longer as speed decreases. You can also adjust the part throttle up/downshifts the same way.

You might try playing with those settings. I've cranked my TC lock/unlock and part throttle up/downshift as far negative as they'll go on my non-towing tune, because I want the engine at the lowest possible RPM for cruising. The WOT power is still there though.

This is an example of what I was talking about when I said to drive it a while to see if there's anything you DON'T like. If you were to decrease your upshift/downshift 1-2 settings and increase the TC lock/unlock settings for 1st and possibly 2nd gear, it might eliminate what you are feeling.

- Jack
  #3  
Old Fri, June 18th, 2010, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackandJanet View Post
It's fine to bring it up here, but the guys at f150online might have some ideas too.

It COULD be that your Torque Converter is locking too soon or is locked as you do the 1-2 upshift. This is one of the things you can monitor on the Gryphon and CS/CTS platforms. If you see a little "padlock" symbol next to the "Commanded" gear number, the TC is locked. That would tend to make the shift feel harder. The TC lock point is governed by both speed and power demand, so if the power demand is low, it may be locking prematurely.

I've felt what you describe at times pulling up a "mild" hill with a trailer and the TC locks in 3rd. Then, when it upshifts to 4th, it does so without unlocking and the shift is quite "harsh". I've also felt something like this at times when at a lower speed where I've come off the gas and then I step down on the pedal again, but not too hard - it feels like the transmission abruptly drops into a lower gear and there's a hard "clunk" and "lurch".

In Custom Options, you can delay the TC locking for any of the gears, by ADDING to the "zero" value that you'll see there. You can change it +/-2 in 1st, +/-3 in 2nd, +/-5 in 3rd and +/-10 in 4th I think. If you put in negative values, it causes the TC to lock sooner and stay locked longer as speed decreases. You can also adjust the part throttle up/downshifts the same way.

You might try playing with those settings. I've cranked my TC lock/unlock and part throttle up/downshift as far negative as they'll go on my non-towing tune, because I want the engine at the lowest possible RPM for cruising. The WOT power is still there though.

This is an example of what I was talking about when I said to drive it a while to see if there's anything you DON'T like. If you were to decrease your upshift/downshift 1-2 settings and increase the TC lock/unlock settings for 1st and possibly 2nd gear, it might eliminate what you are feeling.

- Jack
Very good info Jack, thank you. I'll probably have to read what you've wrote 2 or 3 times to fully understand before I would feel even remotely comfortable with adjusting settings. However, your description almost hits dead on b/c I too have noticed the thump when letting off the pedal and then stepping back into it at the wrong time or close to a shift. In short, I think I'm shifting too soon from 1 to 2. I'd like to increase the speed and/or rpms slightly before that shift occurs, as it always shifts better when under those conditions.

I will research this more and will most likely utilize your advice and play with the subject settings once comfortable. Thanks again.
  #4  
Old Fri, June 18th, 2010, 03:38 PM
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On a side note.

Bigsur,
Please update your user cp with the following,

Phone number.
Gryphon serial number.
Hex calibration code.

Nobody else will see this information except PHP and super moderators.

Thank-you
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  #5  
Old Fri, June 18th, 2010, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88Racing View Post
On a side note.

Bigsur,
Please update your user cp with the following,

Phone number.
Gryphon serial number.
Hex calibration code.

Nobody else will see this information except PHP and super moderators.

Thank-you
Done.
  #6  
Old Thu, June 24th, 2010, 07:55 PM
BigSur BigSur is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackandJanet View Post
It's fine to bring it up here, but the guys at f150online might have some ideas too.

It COULD be that your Torque Converter is locking too soon or is locked as you do the 1-2 upshift. This is one of the things you can monitor on the Gryphon and CS/CTS platforms. If you see a little "padlock" symbol next to the "Commanded" gear number, the TC is locked. That would tend to make the shift feel harder. The TC lock point is governed by both speed and power demand, so if the power demand is low, it may be locking prematurely.

I've felt what you describe at times pulling up a "mild" hill with a trailer and the TC locks in 3rd. Then, when it upshifts to 4th, it does so without unlocking and the shift is quite "harsh". I've also felt something like this at times when at a lower speed where I've come off the gas and then I step down on the pedal again, but not too hard - it feels like the transmission abruptly drops into a lower gear and there's a hard "clunk" and "lurch".

In Custom Options, you can delay the TC locking for any of the gears, by ADDING to the "zero" value that you'll see there. You can change it +/-2 in 1st, +/-3 in 2nd, +/-5 in 3rd and +/-10 in 4th I think. If you put in negative values, it causes the TC to lock sooner and stay locked longer as speed decreases. You can also adjust the part throttle up/downshifts the same way.

You might try playing with those settings. I've cranked my TC lock/unlock and part throttle up/downshift as far negative as they'll go on my non-towing tune, because I want the engine at the lowest possible RPM for cruising. The WOT power is still there though.

This is an example of what I was talking about when I said to drive it a while to see if there's anything you DON'T like. If you were to decrease your upshift/downshift 1-2 settings and increase the TC lock/unlock settings for 1st and possibly 2nd gear, it might eliminate what you are feeling.

- Jack
Jack, I wanted to put this issue back in front at the right post so I have one consistent thread to refer to when I plan to adjust my settings.

SO, to clarify...I understand that delaying the TC locking in 1st or 2nd may help by adding to the zero. In the last sentence of your post, exactly which setting would I play with to "decrease your upshift/downshift 1-2 settings"? I'm not sure I'm clear on this change, i.e. what I'm changing and to what capacity. Thanks for clarifying if you don't mind.

Also, what display should I be viewing to monitor the TC? I'm heading out a little later to start playing around with this. Want to make sure I'm prepared and know what the heck I'm doing. Much appreciated.
  #7  
Old Thu, June 24th, 2010, 08:41 PM
BigSur BigSur is offline
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And just to add one more note to this, I've also noticed that the truck seems to be doing this more when it's hot and I've been running it for awhile. Yesterday, it was doing it repeatedly after climbing some hills and after a 180 mile drive. I've let the truck sit overnight and just took it for a drive. Not doing it now. What is a typical transmission coolant temp after running for awhile? I was in the 170's last night driving up here.
  #8  
Old Thu, June 24th, 2010, 10:01 PM
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What have been your ambient temps?>>Or what's the weather like in the area you've been driving in?

For example the last few times the garage queen has been out, its been mid 70s to lower 80s. Driving her at approximately 80 mph with varying elevation of 500ft. The tft average was 154 over a 60 mile trip.
My CHT was 208-210.

The comm gear pid is the one to view for tc lockup.
It will show what gear your tranny is using and a paddlelock as a symbol for the torque convertor lockup.
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  #9  
Old Fri, June 25th, 2010, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88Racing View Post
What have been your ambient temps?>>Or what's the weather like in the area you've been driving in?

For example the last few times the garage queen has been out, its been mid 70s to lower 80s. Driving her at approximately 80 mph with varying elevation of 500ft. The tft average was 154 over a 60 mile trip.
My CHT was 208-210.

The comm gear pid is the one to view for tc lockup.
It will show what gear your tranny is using and a paddlelock as a symbol for the torque convertor lockup.
THanks 88!!! Ambient temps where I'm at have been in the 90's to low 100s this past week. My TFT is usually around 156 but will increase to 175+ at times. If my assumption is correct....the more I think about it....the shifting seems to be an issue when the truck is really hot ONLY. I'm realizing that its amost never repeatable when the truck has been sitting. Might take some more research.
  #10  
Old Fri, June 25th, 2010, 09:38 AM
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I really don't know the overall condition or maintenance of your truck to speculate anymore.
And......
I never recorded the temps last year when I was driving in 100+ weather.

Maybe its time for a pan drop and change the filter and add some new fluid?

Some others have done a flush. But don't get the flush done with the chemical additives.

Just some thoughts.

Here's generic tables I found on fluid temps vs. break down of fluid over miles driven.

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Last edited by 88Racing; Fri, June 25th, 2010 at 09:57 AM.
 

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