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2004 to 2008 F-150 and Mark-LT
4.2L, 4.6L and 5.4L equipped F-150s and Mark-LTs.


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  #11  
Old Sat, April 21st, 2012, 01:27 AM
PerpetualSeanX PerpetualSeanX is offline
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Originally Posted by 907DAVE View Post
I would start with the basics and move on from there, your on the right track.
Thanks will do. It'll be my first time doing the filter. Is it a pain? Looked at some videos didn't seem to be too bad aside from taking off the fuel line pressure by turning off some switch in the fuse box. I'm trying to teach myself mechanic stuff so I no longer have to depend on people I don't trust. What do you think about spark plugs? Another thing I think may have been neglected. Not sure if I've said but my trucks got 75k miles. Could spark plugs cause power issues? Also I've heard of horror stories of removing spark plugs and snapping stuff...I've been less than excited to do those but think its probably pretty due.

I never did much aside from change my oil until recently did my own front brakes was proud of myself. Haha. I'm 25 never worked on cars. Feels like something a real man should do. So here I am trying to be a "real man".

Last edited by PerpetualSeanX; Sat, April 21st, 2012 at 02:07 AM.
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  #12  
Old Sat, April 21st, 2012, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by PerpetualSeanX View Post
Thanks will do. It'll be my first time doing the filter. Is it a pain? Looked at some videos didn't seem to be too bad aside from taking off the fuel line pressure by turning off some switch in the fuse box. I'm trying to teach myself mechanic stuff so I no longer have to depend on people I don't trust. What do you think about spark plugs? Another thing I think may have been neglected. Not sure if I've said but my trucks got 75k miles. Could spark plugs cause power issues? Also I've heard of horror stories of removing spark plugs and snapping stuff...I've been less than excited to do those but think its probably pretty due.

I never did much aside from change my oil until recently did my own front brakes was proud of myself. Haha. I'm 25 never worked on cars. Feels like something a real man should do. So here I am trying to be a "real man".
Here are some tips for the fuel filter...

1. Pick where you're gonna do it and park the truck. Let it sit with the key out of the ignition for at least an hour. It'll give the fuel a chance to lose pressure. When you are picking a place to do it, go where you won't mind a bit of fuel being sprayed. It WILL be at least a partially pressurized system when you break the seal on it.

2. Wear safety glasses. Not sure if this is an issue for you but my dad is really bad about it. I was holding a pair out to him because he kept refusing. Then when he got the fuel disconnected it sprayed right in his face. He hates it when I say "I told ya so"

3. It's easy if you do your reading ahead of time.

If the filter has never been changed I'm surprised that the truck is still running.
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Old Sat, April 21st, 2012, 04:56 PM
PerpetualSeanX PerpetualSeanX is offline
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Originally Posted by Longshot270 View Post
Here are some tips for the fuel filter...

1. Pick where you're gonna do it and park the truck. Let it sit with the key out of the ignition for at least an hour. It'll give the fuel a chance to lose pressure. When you are picking a place to do it, go where you won't mind a bit of fuel being sprayed. It WILL be at least a partially pressurized system when you break the seal on it.

2. Wear safety glasses. Not sure if this is an issue for you but my dad is really bad about it. I was holding a pair out to him because he kept refusing. Then when he got the fuel disconnected it sprayed right in his face. He hates it when I say "I told ya so"

3. It's easy if you do your reading ahead of time.

If the filter has never been changed I'm surprised that the truck is still running.
Thanks for the pro tips ill definitely take heed. Wearing safety glasses is something I never do I will this time around.

You'd think all of this stuff would be bad news for me but with my performance issues I'm using I'm excited to see what difference it makes when I do some well need maintanence on it.

PS: I got this truck only 13ish k miles ago, that's why all the unknown.

Last edited by PerpetualSeanX; Sat, April 21st, 2012 at 05:21 PM.
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Old Sun, April 22nd, 2012, 03:19 PM
PerpetualSeanX PerpetualSeanX is offline
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Replaced fuel filter, cleaned MAF sensor, and throttle body. Times just as bad although it seems to have helped gas milage with the little driving I did.

Perhaps the gearing is too steep and that's what caused it? I'm thinking of dropping to 4.10 gears.

Id just like my truck to be in the 8 second 0-60 range. I don't think that's too terribly much to ask...
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Old Mon, April 23rd, 2012, 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by PerpetualSeanX View Post
Id just like my truck to be in the 8 second 0-60 range. I don't think that's too terribly much to ask...

To get into the 8's you're looking at forced induction (and smaller tires).

Once you go with forced induction, don't plan on using your truck anymore (i.e. the truck becomes a fuel-eating toy).
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Old Mon, April 23rd, 2012, 01:43 AM
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Forced induction? I'm confused. I see people with 3.73 and 35'' tires doing 7.5's and 8's. Are they all full of it?

I guess what I really mean to say is, I was expecting that my 0-60 time would be better when I put in 4.56 gearing. Instead it literally hasn't changed at all. And to add insult to injury, my millage suffers slightly as well. So, did I waste 1300? What is everyone talking about saying that they get better performance or their low end grunt back by regearing.

Don't get me wrong, my 0-60 time is not really a big deal. It's more just something to help me gauge how my truck is doing power wise and how it stacks up compared to other trucks like and unlike my build.

As it stands, it doesn't seem to stack up well against other like builds, so that makes me think something is wrong.

With my tranny temps siting at 16X degrees and perhaps original spark plugs, and maybe even a torque converter issue, I'm praying that is the issue.

I'll have to respectfully disagree with you at this time that forced induction would be required to get the f150 to the 8's 0-60. Especially considering I've hit 9.1 seconds once.

I appreciate the input, perhaps you could explain to me a bit more on why you feel forced induction would really be needed to get me to where I want my truck to be. Not trying to be a sarcastic jerk, just genuinely curious.

Thanks again for your time and anyone else who may have an idea as to whats going on with my truck.
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Old Mon, April 23rd, 2012, 01:47 AM
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Also, someone suggest I obtain a datalog from my truck, I assume using my gryphon, insinuating that it may help in diagnosing a potential problem. Does anyone know about that? Perhaps someone could enlighten me on how to get it, how to use it, where to post it, etc...Thanks
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Old Mon, April 23rd, 2012, 09:26 AM
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This one is based on calculations since I don't (and don't know anyone that does) own an 04-08 F150.

All else being equal, you're looking at an additional 18.5-22 HP above and beyond what you have now just to get into the 8.9xx range. Technically speaking, that means that you have to make more torque at the same RPM range in which you would normally be operating during those 9 seconds. I would say that you'd be VERY hard pressed to get that much power out of simple bolt-on parts. 0-60 times are largely based on how quickly the engine gets to maximum horsepower so things like head porting, cams, etc., aren't going to help you at all in that department. Sure, they MIGHT squeak out a COUPLE extra horsepower, but you won't see that until the 1-2 upshift point.......long past the time that it does any good for your 0-60 times.
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Old Mon, April 23rd, 2012, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PerpetualSeanX View Post
Also, someone suggest I obtain a datalog from my truck, I assume using my gryphon, insinuating that it may help in diagnosing a potential problem. Does anyone know about that? Perhaps someone could enlighten me on how to get it, how to use it, where to post it, etc...Thanks
See the link in my sig pic. Datalogging instructions for the monochrome gryphons.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PerpetualSeanX View Post
Forced induction? I'm confused. I see people with 3.73 and 35'' tires doing 7.5's and 8's. Are they all full of it?

I guess what I really mean to say is, I was expecting that my 0-60 time would be better when I put in 4.56 gearing. Instead it literally hasn't changed at all. And to add insult to injury, my millage suffers slightly as well. So, did I waste 1300? What is everyone talking about saying that they get better performance or their low end grunt back by regearing.

Don't get me wrong, my 0-60 time is not really a big deal. It's more just something to help me gauge how my truck is doing power wise and how it stacks up compared to other trucks like and unlike my build.

As it stands, it doesn't seem to stack up well against other like builds, so that makes me think something is wrong.

With my tranny temps siting at 16X degrees and perhaps original spark plugs, and maybe even a torque converter issue, I'm praying that is the issue.

I'll have to respectfully disagree with you at this time that forced induction would be required to get the f150 to the 8's 0-60. Especially considering I've hit 9.1 seconds once.

I appreciate the input, perhaps you could explain to me a bit more on why you feel forced induction would really be needed to get me to where I want my truck to be. Not trying to be a sarcastic jerk, just genuinely curious.

Thanks again for your time and anyone else who may have an idea as to whats going on with my truck.

1. Do not use the programmer. It is full of chit. Get your tire size dialed in and use a stopwatch. Any result from the programmer's "performance test" will be incorrect. I'm not sure why they are wrong but comparing to an official drag strip the 1/4 mile times are wrong. Also, I could make my truck have a 5 second 0-60 by regearing and not entering it into the tune. If you were to reprogram your truck and not change to the correct gearing the speedo would read faster, the 0-60 would improve dramatically as a consequence from an incorrect reading.

2. Based on what I've been seeing over the years the 4.56 gears are too low for regular driving. For 35" tires, most people go to the 4.10s unless they are doing a bunch of towing. Like the quote from Bill that Cody included, having the gears too low keeps the PCM from properly computing engine load. Your gearing is fitting for 37+ inch tires. I also would be happy that the mileage hasn't taken a nose dive. IMO, if you are going to be throwing on huge tires and lower gearing, you have to pay to play. You won't be improving mileage by making your truck less efficient at delivering power to the ground.

3. You are also battling physics, something that does not lose. By increasing tire size you increase the rotational inertia of the tires, making it harder to accelerate. You are also increasing the mass, which compounds the inertia. The lift probably doesn't help because if the truck rears back on acceleration, that is wasting energy.

Forced induction effectively gives you more power at a given RPM. Cody nailed it with his last post. In a 0-60 you need to generate as much power as quickly as possible.
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Old Mon, April 23rd, 2012, 10:07 AM
PerpetualSeanX PerpetualSeanX is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cleatus12r View Post
This one is based on calculations since I don't (and don't know anyone that does) own an 04-08 F150.

All else being equal, you're looking at an additional 18.5-22 HP above and beyond what you have now just to get into the 8.9xx range. Technically speaking, that means that you have to make more torque at the same RPM range in which you would normally be operating during those 9 seconds. I would say that you'd be VERY hard pressed to get that much power out of simple bolt-on parts. 0-60 times are largely based on how quickly the engine gets to maximum horsepower so things like head porting, cams, etc., aren't going to help you at all in that department. Sure, they MIGHT squeak out a COUPLE extra horsepower, but you won't see that until the 1-2 upshift point.......long past the time that it does any good for your 0-60 times.
So, I'm getting that you feel 10 seconds is appropriate. Again, I don't mind 10 seconds, if I had been pulling 11 before the gear change. I'm just confused that there seems to have been no tangible improvement other than that for my engine and transmission wear. That lack of change in time makes me think something is wrong.

So, I'll ask this question directly: Do you feel it is normal to not see an improvement in 0-60 times when someone gears to 4.56 from 3.73 or lower?
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