Hey ya'll--Texan who piggy-backed here from f150online...

[fx4texasgirl]

Ill get back to ya, my phone is acting up.
Thanks !

[fx4texasgirl]

this is about the 4th time Ive tried to post and I get kicked off and the forum unlogs me and lose my whole post.

1. Should I be moving the values on the lock up settins up or down? I moved them up 2 increments then test drove it. still suddering. then I moved it up 2 more, and it does it a little less, and it seems less violent when it does happen. also, should I be messing with all the other gear lock ups? like the 1-2, 2-3 ect...

2. why is the shudder happening now? Its been fine for a few years, but I also noticed it happening more when I switched to level 3. I stopped daily driving it so I figured that putting it on level 3 would have more power and I actually got better gas mileage. Before I kept it on level 2 since my stock gears were pulling such a big tire, and the last time I talked to Bill he agreed with this logic.

3. my speedo is almost right on and the value I entered into th edge for my tire size is 2714. I have a 35x13.50x20 tire. Could this be off?

thats all I can think of right now. I would just get custom tunes and have it updated but it seems the turn around time seems long and I have an offroad trip coming up on November 11th so I dont want to chance it. Maybe after that I will do it. But for now, it would be great if this could be fixed just my pressing a few buttons.

btw, Is this shudder hurting anything in my truck?

so many questions, I know, but thanks for your warm welcom, time, and consideration.

[Jackpine]

The 2714 value you're using for your tires looks right to me. Don't change it.

The thing is, you've got low ratio gearing at 3.55, and bigger tires than stock. This has the effect of reducing your "effective" gearing still further and is reducing your available torque. The engine is operating at a lower RPM than "optimum".

From your description, this problem seems to be happening around the 3-4 upshift (and possibly the downshift too. So, that's the only change I'd make.

I'd change the part throttle 3-4 up/downshift points by +5. This will keep you in 3rd gear longer as you speed up and will drop you into 3rd gear sooner as you slow down. Then, change the 4th gear torque converter lock/unlock points to +10. That keeps the torque converter unlocked longer/sooner which keeps your engine revving higher during the 3-4 up/downshift.

I don't think you need to change any of the other settings.

I don't really think you are gaining enough from Level 3 to offset the higher cost of fuel. This is something you have to figure out though. I DO know that Level 2 is a very good all-around tune and it's the only one I used before getting custom tunes. I think it's the one you should be using in off-road driving too.

Are you hurting anything? Probably not, but that's easy to say, isn't it?

- Jack

[Longshot270]

Only move the points up. By doing that it helps keep the engine in a more powerful RPM range. The graph I posted should help you conceptualize what is happening. Also, because of how low your effective gearing is, the TC cannot downshift properly at what is probably the assigned speed. I remember Cody saying that the TC cannot lock if the resulting RPMs are below 1100 RPM (shifts may also be that was also). The computer will do some compensation based on load but because of how extreme your case is, even the standard compensation apparently is not enough. +2 may help, if it does then you are good, if not then keep going.

[fx4texasgirl]

Alright, this seems to help alot. I test drive it again yesterday for a while and it seems much better, but I'll probably raise the points a little more like y'all suggested . Thanks again !