Engine temps.

[soutthpaw]

Originally Posted by TXWolf

A question about the anti-sway bars ... When I pulled my new trailer from the RV dealer to the house, I'm assuming that the loud creaking sound that was going on was from the anti-sway bars? Is there any reason why I shouldn't put a little lithium grease on the bars, to cut down on the friction/noise?

don't grease the anti sway bar as (most) use friction to control sway,

[zeuss]

My equalizer bars would creak and there was a hole at the top for oil to be added, but like said before, sway control usually works off friction. The ones I had were Reese, but I think nowadays they are incorporating equalizer and sway in one setup. So be careful where you lube. Maybe talk to manufacturer.

[Jackpine]

My Equil-i-zer brand hitch says it's OK to grease the friction surfaces. It says doing this is "optional" and will not diminish the sway control properties, and, it might quiet the hitch.

If you notice the pressure that's exerted on the brackets, I think that's what does the most for sway control.

But the noise IS kind of nerve wracking at first. Sounds like something is breaking, doesn't it?

- Jack

[408F150]

Depending on what type of anti-sway it is, the creaking will be normal. If it's a dual-cam anti-sway, it shouldn't be groaning too loudly. If it's a friction type anti sway (which 90% are), the groaning is the result of metal parts and friction pads under high tension sliding on each other. You can grease the sockets in your yoke that the bars rest in, but anything from the ball back can't be greased too heavily. If you over-lube any of the anti-sway stuff you're just de-frictioning your friction activated anti sway. There's 2 types of friction, static (grip when stationary) and kinetic (grip when moving). The friction the anti-sway relies on is kinetic friction. The part of the groaning that can eliminated comes from reducing the intensity of the force unleashed when switching from static to kinetic mode by lightly greasing the resting points of your sway system (where parts sit when going in a straight line). This gets them from resting to moving more smoothly but doesn't make the amount of grip on the surfaces suffer too much

[Jackpine]

Originally Posted by 408F150

Depending on what type of anti-sway it is, the creaking will be normal. If it's a dual-cam anti-sway, it shouldn't be groaning too loudly. If it's a friction type anti sway (which 90% are), the groaning is the result of metal parts and friction pads under high tension sliding on each other. You can grease the sockets in your yoke that the bars rest in, but anything from the ball back can't be greased too heavily. If you over-lube any of the anti-sway stuff you're just de-frictioning your friction activated anti sway. There's 2 types of friction, static (grip when stationary) and kinetic (grip when moving). The friction the anti-sway relies on is kinetic friction. The part of the groaning that can eliminated comes from reducing the intensity of the force unleashed when switching from static to kinetic mode by lightly greasing the resting points of your sway system (where parts sit when going in a straight line). This gets them from resting to moving more smoothly but doesn't make the amount of grip on the surfaces suffer too much

Right! Sounds like you have a fair grasp of Physics! Lubrication has to decrease the coefficient of friction, but I suspect the "force" component overshadows that by a great deal. (I would not want to have my finger between the bar and the "brackets". I think my finger would simply become "grease". )

- Jack

[hayjayhorses]

In my 2000 F550 7.3, 4r100, 4.88, 4" turbo back gross, stock fuel no chip, gross weight about 40,000 pounds. My gauges have a high temp recall feature.

I have a temp probe in the thermostat housing. On a hot summer day pushing a big hill it will get to 218, with the stock exhaust I got it to 225. on the flat it will stay about 190 (my foot is still in it).

I had a temp probe in the oil cooler port, under a load the oil would run a consitant 20 deggres hotter then coolant. I Have recalled that temp at 240 once.

I have 2 tranny temp probes one in the pressure port (tranny case) and the other in the line comming out of the tranny with my new tranny (Billet multi disk, shift kit, Long tru cool max tranny cooler) in last 15k miles the highest case temp I have seen is 195 and the ECT was at 215 on a 4 mile hill fully loaded, generaly the case temp will run 140 with an empty trailer (17,200# gross) and about 150-160 loaded. The temp comming out of the tourque converter will get to to 200 in town with a hevy load but cools right down to the same temp as the case shortly after the converter is locked up.

I also have a fan on my tranny cooler that turns on @ 160 case temp or by a swith, I turn it on in town with a load, it works very well. I mounted the tranny cooler (long LPD4739) in front of the ac condenser, and an electric fan is mounted in front of the cooler I cut out some of the grill, I will post some pics later.

With the stock tranny and cooler I could easly get the case temp to 220and line temp to 240 and it would take a long time to get to under 200.