2000 F-550 looking for best power/fuel economy.

[4drbrnko]

I've tried to read through everything before I started asking...... honest.

The truck and mods so far:
2000 with 101,000 miles, all services documented by original owner.
Gauges so far: tranny temp, pyro with probe installed after turbo(it's where it was installed prior to the 4" dp, I've heard this position will give readings 200* on the cool side?), Boost. I'd like to add: true engine coolant gauge, as well as monitor fuel, oil pressure and temp, rear end temp. Does the gryphon support add on sensors for any of this?
4R100, remote mount tranny cooler with fan, external filtration as well.
4.88 rear running 245/70R19.5 tires for better stability as well as a slight rpm drop for the freeway. (4.30 gears coming once my buddy sources a carrier)

Engine:
I've done a 4" dp/and exhaust with a flow through muffler that exits just in front of passenger tire. (couldn't get mandrel bent system to exit behind tire due to the air ride suspension)
Warmup valve delete(housing was leaking oil)
High pressure oil crossover line.
203* thermostat
Engine coolant bypass filtration
I haven't done the intake air heater delete, some say do, some say it's not enough restriction to matter?
Fuel pressure regulator bump to 75 psi will be done by the weekend.
The rest of the fuel system is stock, future upgrade to FASS possible if it will help with fuel economy/longevity of engine?
Wicked wheel upgrade going in Tuesday to help the turbo "flutter" that showed up after the 4" exhaust and S&B air Intake.

So far, using a borrowed Predator I've been able to hit 17.6 mpg with an empty truck, no towing. MPG calculations run off of true gps miles using same station/same pump for every top off.
Mileage was the same using the 100 horse and 85 horse program, neither of which could use when towing heavy I know, just shooting for highest mpg's when empty.

I've got my engine oil sample kits and will start a regular testing program to monitor engine internals.

My main questions:
1. What other modifications can be done to help with mpg's/engine longevity?
2. Since my buddy won't let me keep his predator forever and I don't care for flashing my truck when I want/need to change settings. What tunes/programmer should I look at getting?

If I've left out any vital info let me know?
Thanks
Jeff

[rammertide07]

Originally Posted by 4drbrnko

I've tried to read through everything before I started asking...... honest.

The truck and mods so far:
2000 with 101,000 miles, all services documented by original owner.
Gauges so far: tranny temp, pyro with probe installed after turbo(it's where it was installed prior to the 4" dp, I've heard this position will give readings 200* on the cool side?)Readin post turbo numbers can vary a lot, depends on how much boost you are making. I would relocate to the manifold, Boost. I'd like to add: true engine coolant gauge, as well as monitor fuel, oil pressure and temp, rear end temp. Does the gryphon support add on sensors for any of this?4R100, remote mount tranny cooler with fan, external filtration as well.
4.88 rear running 245/70R19.5 tires for better stability as well as a slight rpm drop for the freeway. (4.30 gears coming once my buddy sources a carrier)

Engine:
I've done a 4" dp/and exhaust with a flow through muffler that exits just in front of passenger tire. (couldn't get mandrel bent system to exit behind tire due to the air ride suspension)
Warmup valve delete(housing was leaking oil)
High pressure oil crossover line.
203* thermostat
Engine coolant bypass filtration
I haven't done the intake air heater delete, some say do, some say it's not enough restriction to matter?
Fuel pressure regulator bump to 75 psiTad bit too high. Here is what Bob from Diesel O-rings has to say about shimming the FPR>>> The FPR is located on the left side of the fuel bowl and the return line to the tank is connected to it. The poppet and associated sleeve that it travels in are the internal working parts of the regulator. Wear of the poppet and more so, the aluminum sleeve it travels in and out of is the cause of most fuel pressure problems. The poppet will begin to stick in the sleeve, sometimes open (low fuel pressure) sometimes closed (high fuel pressure). High fuel pressure will cause a loss of fuel mileage but only if it exceeds 70 psi (rule of thumb), the pump is capable of developing well over 100psi. Low fuel pressure can cause rapid internal injector wear along with the pistons and cylinders walls overheating (loss of cooling effect by not having the proper fuel spray pattern on the pistons.)

will be done by the weekend.
The rest of the fuel system is stock, future upgrade to FASS possible if it will help with fuel economy/longevity of engine?I just read some bad things about FASS. I did hear good things about Airdog...as far a longevity. A FRx may be all that you need
Wicked wheel upgrade going in Tuesday to help the turbo "flutter" that showed up after the 4" exhaust and S&B air Intake.I would go with another filter set-up such as the 6637 or Tymar. Those name brand filters like that (especially oiled filters) flow too much air and let debris in

So far, using a borrowed Predator I've been able to hit 17.6 mpg with an empty truck, no towing. MPG calculations run off of true gps miles using same station/same pump for every top off.
Mileage was the same using the 100 horse and 85 horse program, neither of which could use when towing heavy I know, just shooting for highest mpg's when empty.

I've got my engine oil sample kits and will start a regular testing program to monitor engine internals.

My main questions:
1. What other modifications can be done to help with mpg's/engine longevity?You're doing pretty good for a 550. I think single shot injectors, propane, water/meth, and some other modifications others can chime in
2. Since my buddy won't let me keep his predator forever and I don't care for flashing my truck when I want/need to change settings. What tunes/programmer should I look at getting? Since you already have gauges, you may just want a chip? If you're staying stock as far as injectors and turbo for a while, I'd say the Phoenix. But if you want access to being able to have different selection of tunes available at any time, go for the FU

If I've left out any vital info let me know?
Thanks
Jeff

.......

[4drbrnko]

Great info Rammertide', thanks!

What issues have you heard with the FASS system?

What I was thinking on the gauges was the tranny, boost, and EGT could move to the monitor, leaving room on the pillar for engine coolant, rear diff. temp, and gear vendors fluid temp?

EGR probe will be moved, it's just where it was installed on the truck when I got it. Exhaust shop just reinstalled it in same position on the new 4" downpipe.

I misquoted the pressure for the regulator, the how to I found listed 75 psi at X amount of shim thickness, shooting for 60 psi.

I'm on the fence about switching to single shots?
It's a work truck, and I think, fairly close to max gains on MPG?
There's only so much you can do with a 9,200# 4.88 geared truck...
Any general numbers on MPG improvments switching to single shots?

Thanks again!

[rammertide07]

Originally Posted by 4drbrnko

Great info Rammertide', thanks!

What issues have you heard with the FASS system?I've been research doing the FRx, Full regulated return, or the Fass. In my searching and reading the forums, a lot of people said that the Fass system/pump does not last that long, and they suggested Air Dog being a better unit

What I was thinking on the gauges was the tranny, boost, and EGT could move to the monitor, leaving room on the pillar for engine coolant, rear diff. temp, and gear vendors fluid temp?Have you ever looked into the F650 Dash Mod? I'll post a lnk bellow to give you some other ideas. I've had gauges on the pillar for 2yrs. While it looks cool, it makes bit of a blind spot and scratched the hell out of my dash anytime I had to take it on/off. I now have one gauge on the steering column that can read everything via OBD2 port and auxillary sensors. I'll post links to that as well.

EGR probe will be moved, it's just where it was installed on the truck when I got it. Exhaust shop just reinstalled it in same position on the new 4" downpipe.

I misquoted the pressure for the regulator, the how to I found listed 75 psi at X amount of shim thickness, shooting for 60 psi.

I'm on the fence about switching to single shots?
It's a work truck, and I think, fairly close to max gains on MPG?
There's only so much you can do with a 9,200# 4.88 geared truck...
Any general numbers on MPG improvments switching to single shots?some say it doesn't affect fuel milage, some say it improves. It does use less oil pressure since it is only firing the injectors once. I've also read that it is easier for tuners to tune since it is 1 shot of fuel and not 2. Split shots were meant to be emissions control. I don't know of anything that was put on diesels for emissions have helped them with power or fuel economy.

Thanks again!

F650 Dash Mod links:

Riffraff Diesel Performance Parts: - RDP Custom F650 Dash Kit

Using RiffRaff you have to send him your cup holder so he can match the paint. This link below, you can buy the piece and paint it yourself. An automotive paint store can match and make the color paint for you to paint it yourself...

http://www.stealth-automotive.com/in...roduct_id=1374

AeroForce Interceptor Gauge:

Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket

VIDEO0076.mp4 video by rammertide07 - Photobucket

Aeroforce Technology Inc | Products - Interceptor

[4drbrnko]

The F-650 swap is sweet, adding that to my "list".