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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
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Cold Idle Control issues.
Now that the winter is here my cold idle control is in the dumps.
This is an issue that presented itself a few years ago when my alternator was not charging well at idle, or whenever there is an accessory left on that drops battery voltage. Problem is that whenever there is a decent draw (or low voltage) on the charging system the "automatic high idle" will not work. If I leave all accessories off (heater, lights, radio) it will work normally. Tonight I payed around with it a bit........I went in and setup the Cold Idle Multiplier and Cold Idle Control to always be in "high idle". This worked great until I flipped on the lights or heater, then right back down to normal idle speed. The system voltage (according to the Scangauge) is right at 14.2-14.4v. I am starting to get a bit irritated with this as the truck really does not warm up to well at base idle, and I am not willing to turn off the heater.....lol. Any ideas why this is, or what parameter to adjust to relax this a bit? |
#2
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Hmmm. No problems here. Last night after reading this post I went outside and started the truck. It was 20 degrees and I instantly turned on my HVAC blower to high, turned on my lights, and waited.
20 seconds later (glow plugs still on as well as all loads), the truck was in it's high idle mode.
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Tuning, flashing, burning chips, and repairing all aspects of 7.3L Powerstrokes. SEVEN 7.3L-powered vehicles in the driveway. Two didn't come that way from the factory! |
#3
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Ya, I know it is strange. Guess I could always just put the chip back in, or that box, but I would rather find the issue then cover it up.
I might hook up the BOB and see what voltage actually is at the PCM during this condition. |
#4
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So what your saying is any time there is any kind of current draw, the truck wont go into high idle? You alt at one time didnt charge well, but now it looks to be charging ok?
I've had issues in the past with the race car, when the alt would start to give out, it would tend to scramble the firmware in the EFI computer. I always knew when I was getting ready to lose an alternator because I'd get a bunch of noise on the sensors.. The only conditions that I know of that have to be met for your truck to go into high idle is, has to be in park, the throttle pos. sensor has to be within a certain range, the brake light switch, and engine oil temp cant be above a certain temp. So I'd look at what the sensors are doing, see if your getting and kind of noise that might not allow it to go into high idle.. Whats the engine oil temp when it's doing all of this? Thats really all I can think of.. It's been in the low teens here in the mornings, and my truck has gone into high idle everytime without an issue. Thats with the heater going full bore, stereo system going, and typically with the lights on.
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'00 F-250 7.3 PSD Best truck ever made! '05 F-350 6.0 PSD '07 F-450 6.0 PSD '79 Mustang Turbocharged 302, Aftermarket EFI 563 HP/ 657 TQ '98 Mustang Stroked, Blown, Aftermarket EFI 498 HP/ 537 TQ '99 Cobra, no engine ( petal power ) '97 Dodge Ram 1500, Turbocharged 408, Aftermarket EFI I have far too many toys... |
#5
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Quote:
Since posting this I had gone through all my battery/ alt connections and cleaned everything, regardless of how it looked. Since then it has seemed to be working normally. There must be an undefined table that has some bearing on this...............ohhh Bill!!!! |
#6
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Well I thought I had the issue resolved until temps dropped to -40 for the past week or so - and it stopped working again.
Using the Scangauge I monitored the IAT and it was reading 500* (which I now believe is an issue with the Scangauge), so I disconnected the sensor and it defaulted to 68 and the high idle seemed to work normally - when the engine was cold. Today I spent a bit of time playing with it and was pretty successful controlling the idle with the sensor disconnected, once it warmed up I lost all control of the high idle. I tried changing the default to 0*F , setting the Cold Idle control to be always on - regardless of temp - and it still wont work when the engine is warm. When the sensor is disconnected does it substitute a different temp sensor? As a last ditch effort I plugged the sensor back in, and still no high idle function. |
#7
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I think I'd make sure your issues isn't the sensor. What makes you think it's something with the Scangauge and not the sensor? I had a bad EOT sensor, or bad wires to it, awhile back, once I hooked a scanner to it it came obvious when it was reading 4 degrees on a warm engine. I'd make sure that sensor is reading correctly before you spend a bunch more time trying to adjust the tuning for it.
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#8
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Reason I dont think it is the sensor is because when it is unplugged the default to 68*(which it displays) - I went in an changed the default - and whenever it is set lower than 0*F it displays 500*.
This leads me to believe the Scangauge is not set up to read below 0*. |
#9
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That makes sense. Do you have AE where you can verify this?
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#10
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I do have a Genisis and Verus I can use to verify, just haven't felt the need to yet.
I about got this one figured out, but there is still a strange issue. When engine is cold, the idle will raise up to what it should - then suddenly drop back down to base idle. It will continue to do this for a few minutes, then it might decide to work and stay up on the high idle, or might just stay at base idle. Also, my Autostart is messing with this somehow. This evening I started the truck after dinner - went out about 10 minutes later and it was still at base idle speed. Stuck my key in and turned to the "run" position and after a few seconds it ramped right up to where I had set it...lol. I will be playing around with it some more in the AM. |
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