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2003 to 2007 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel equipped Super Duty and Excursion. |
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#1
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Tackling the next generation of Ford diesel
Ok, so maybe its not the newest generation of Ford diesel, but its next in line after having a few 7.3s. The latest purchase involves buying a 2003 F250 6.0L auto. Needing somewhat of a year-round, daily driver, tow ready rig after the sale of my 95 7.3 a few months ago, I picked up this one. 203k on the clock, smooth running, and smooth shifting. Checked FICM voltage and had an Oasis done and wasn't real worried about buying it. Dumped in some Rev-x before the 180 mile drive back home. Have plans doing some preventative maintenance before winter, my 97 will cover until then. I will for sure be tracking mileage as work/mods are done and if time permits will attempt some write ups.
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Thomas H. '97 F-250 CCSB 7.3L Auto, Gauges, Modded H2E, 285/200% sticks, 7.3L IC, Stealth Dual HPOP, Pheonix chip '03 F-250 CCSB 6.0L Auto, Gryphon CTS, FICM tuning by PHP, Powermax Last edited by F-127; Mon, July 11th, 2011 at 08:42 PM. |
#2
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Sweet!
Ya know, the more I work on those 6 ohhs, the more I like em......really! I love how smooth and quiet they run, and the tranny seems nice too. What do you have planned for her? |
#3
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Get some real mirrors for that thing.
Other than that, nice looking truck. That's my second-favorite color after black.
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Tuning, flashing, burning chips, and repairing all aspects of 7.3L Powerstrokes. SEVEN 7.3L-powered vehicles in the driveway. Two didn't come that way from the factory! |
#4
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Quote:
*Sigh* Yes I know... lol. A previous owner actually put a convex mirror on these smaller mirrors and it helps a lot, big enough to do something but small enough not to be in the way. Probably will get some real mirrors after the engine work. Thank you sir!
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Thomas H. '97 F-250 CCSB 7.3L Auto, Gauges, Modded H2E, 285/200% sticks, 7.3L IC, Stealth Dual HPOP, Pheonix chip '03 F-250 CCSB 6.0L Auto, Gryphon CTS, FICM tuning by PHP, Powermax |
#5
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Some first numbers. 16.2 mpgs on the first MPG calulation. This thing does have a couple things already done prior to purchase: turbo-back exhaust less cat, AEM Bruteforce intake, and a Bully Dog tuner. The 180 mile trip after the purchase to home was made with programmer in unknown setting, an ignition on wire for the programmer was disconnected. Once fixed, the rest of the miles were in various levels, not always light on the pedal. Yeah I know, CTS will get swapped out from the 97(getting some ICP data) and into the 03 soon enough.
Once again '03 F-250 6.0 CCSB stock wheels/tire size/height, 3.73 gearing Total miles: 231.5 MPG: 16.2 Mods: AEM intake, Turbo back exhaust, Rev-X engine oil and fuel additive ECM: VXAP1N6 Tuning: Bully Dog, setting unknown, 75% of time, various settings other 25% Known misc. things: Exhaust leak at the cylinder head-exhaust manifold on one port, Truxedo bed cover, Turbo vanes seems to be free(can be heard sweeping at idle) I'd really prefer to get more miles on the truck to provide more concrete info before making changes but I'm driving my 97 while I can and before it's stashed for winter. Opps I should have that "w" word. I'll try to keep updates given as things progress, should be with not quite so much information, now that there is some presented. I'd really like to get this thing to be making MPGs like my '95 7.3, which averaged about 17, summer/winter, city/highway, occassional towing, whatever. Think the Super Duties are a bit heavier but I think it'll be possible.
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Thomas H. '97 F-250 CCSB 7.3L Auto, Gauges, Modded H2E, 285/200% sticks, 7.3L IC, Stealth Dual HPOP, Pheonix chip '03 F-250 CCSB 6.0L Auto, Gryphon CTS, FICM tuning by PHP, Powermax |
#6
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First 'write-up' on a coolant flush plus a few misc things. In my mind its one of the top things to do to a 6.0. I went with Restore coolant flush from Fleetguard. Fleetguard also offers a Restore Plus. Restore is geared for cleaning silicate gel and oil/grease/fuel, while Restore Plus is geared for rust, scale, and solder bloom.(taken from brochure here)
To start with, drain the coolant. There is a radiator drain on the lower left side of the radiator, fairly self explainatory, loosen to drain. It would be a good idea to take out the block drain for on the left side of the block(the right side is pretty much covered by the starter). The drain can be removed using an 8mm allen. Block drain is pictured below. Next, the Restore can be added to the cooling system, 1 gallon per 10 gallons of coolant capacity, I found a capacity of 27.5 qts including recovery tank. Fill remaining with water. Turn the heater control to full heat to allow max coolant flow through heater core. Run the engine at normal operating temperature for 2 hours(note, not recommended to leave coolant cleaner in system for more than 3 hours). Drain coolant system, radiator and block, and flush with tap water, change coolant filter if installed. Flush more if desired. I did a couple times. Fill system with appropriate coolant and mixture, a lot say to go with an extended life coolant but I didn't feel it was necessary, I went with a coolant meeting Ford spec. While I letting coolant drain the first time, I did a few other things. The CAC pipes came with insulation, I had a hunch they might be holding more than what Ford designed them for, and I was right. Factory insulation, so purdy After a little peeling back, not so purdy. So I pulled off all the insulation and with a few minutes at the wire wheel on the bench grinder and they were looking pretty good. I didn't have time to paint, since I was wanting to finish the coolant flush. Lucky or not, I'm not sure yet, but I got a dual alternator equiped truck. Right side CAC tube reminds me of the OBS downpipe, although not quite as bad. I also spent some time wiping all the grease of the boots and washed off the clamps as well. Amazing what difference it made for underhood looks with the minor amout of time it took. Since I had the air filter out and CAC tubes as well. I found easy access to the EBP sensor. It can be removed with 1" or 25mm wrench or socket. After making sure the pipe to manifold was clean I looked in the EBP sensor as well. Yeah it was dirty. I did my best to get it cleaned out, will probably go with a new one sometime. Next up. Either going after just either EGR delete and exhaust manifold leak or a 'complete solution.'
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Thomas H. '97 F-250 CCSB 7.3L Auto, Gauges, Modded H2E, 285/200% sticks, 7.3L IC, Stealth Dual HPOP, Pheonix chip '03 F-250 CCSB 6.0L Auto, Gryphon CTS, FICM tuning by PHP, Powermax |
#7
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Ok... I got a little carried away. My idea of one thing at a time, tracking mileage, is about completely thrown out the window..
Did the engine out method, did not want to tie up the car lift even with the original plan of just doing head gaskets since I was working ocassional weekends on it and I don't mind the way I went about it. Cylinder bores looked like new, rods were showing some wear towards the piston side. I'm having a feeling the Bully Dog programmer had some effect as I could see timing was advanced to the limit judging by the pattern on the pistons. Going to go about with a OEM Ford rebuild kit, ARP headstuds, block decked, heads resurfaced and checked over, balanced, EGR delete, coolant filter, ECM should be on its way back from PHP with a rollback. A powermax was just too hard to turn down with a vendor selling on sale at 1100 shipped, so that'll be going too. Should be a solid daily driver when all done, and nice proof that the 6.0 is a solid engine as well. Oh and I like this, factory provided hardware.
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Thomas H. '97 F-250 CCSB 7.3L Auto, Gauges, Modded H2E, 285/200% sticks, 7.3L IC, Stealth Dual HPOP, Pheonix chip '03 F-250 CCSB 6.0L Auto, Gryphon CTS, FICM tuning by PHP, Powermax |
#8
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Yeah, except that part is the main source of leaks on a 6.0L (besides the head gaskets )
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Tuning, flashing, burning chips, and repairing all aspects of 7.3L Powerstrokes. SEVEN 7.3L-powered vehicles in the driveway. Two didn't come that way from the factory! |
#9
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Err... That seems like something I would do....haha.
Good luck with the rebuild! |
#10
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Hey now, way to rain on my parade! lol.. yeah I was kinda thinking about the extra chances for leaks, instead of just the block to oil pan seal(1) on the bottom end of a 7.3, there are now... block to bedplate(1), bedplate to upper oil pan(2), and upper oil pan to lower oil pan(3).
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Thomas H. '97 F-250 CCSB 7.3L Auto, Gauges, Modded H2E, 285/200% sticks, 7.3L IC, Stealth Dual HPOP, Pheonix chip '03 F-250 CCSB 6.0L Auto, Gryphon CTS, FICM tuning by PHP, Powermax |
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