im not sure was the ticking sound was, i went and re-torque'd the crankshaft pulley and it seemed to be fine.


the wires might have been yanked but seem to be just fine. i cleared the DTC's and started the engine and couple times and they never came back one but we will see once i drive it a distance.

the truck should be fine, i drove it this morning about 30 miles with the ticking and all and it was just fine.


it only needs to last until i get the e-fans which hopefully the part troyer is waiting for to make the kit gets in tomorrow, so hopefully i will have them late next week.

everything seems to be fine, radio, a/c, no overheating etc etc. not sure if i need to change the idle RPM's higher or lower or not, they seem to be fine at 65. why would be a reason to lower or raise them?

while im at it getting answers here, i noticed after buttoning everything back up that this little tube was loose. it connects to the front left brake and goes up to the rear ABS pump i believe. i cant seem to see anything it connects to.

can anybody check on this in their truck

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...8/IMG_0051.jpg

i think its for the vent to the front axle

Like 427R roush said. Look on top of the diff casing.

Hopefully the efans come in real soon!

Lars

What do you mean by 65? Rpm's?

You don't want the voltage below 13.0 for long periods of time.
Try this:while the truck is running at normal idle turn on your voltage pid.
Then turn on everything you can think of. It drops to 12.0-12.3 with the truck in D and brakes on!
Now add in efans and you want to boost your idle some more 100+rpms(from original stock idle).

Lars

Sburn - you're an absolute goldmine of knowledge! :2thumbs: (I'm being quite sincere when I say that).

Funny, isn't it, that something as simple as a temperature induced viscosity increaser would have to be replaced by sensors, specialized circuitry in the PCM and probably, a much more complicated clutch mechanism in the fan hub. I suppose that's progress, and I'm sure it's ever so much more precise, but still....

- Jack

Thank you. I claim no special abilities other than I enjoy reading wiring diagrams and powertrain manuals and such.


I can make a guess why Ford ended up with such an elaborate system: R-134 refrigerant in the A/C just doesn't work as good as the older R-12 at idle/slow speeds, so you really need the fan to be engaged and pulling fresh air through the condenser when the vehicle is moving slowly. But, at highway speeds, the fan doesn't even need to be there at all to provide A/C and engine cooling and becomes a load that hurts mileage. Being that the PCM already knows the vehicle speed, ambient temp, A/C status, engine temp, etc. anyway, it makes sense to spend a few extra bucks for some wires, connectors, and a few lines of CPU code to eliminate the above two issues. And since it's all just softwre at that point, might as well do something smarter than just On/Off controll and have the PCM map the perfect fan RPM against temps, A/C, VSS, engine temps, etc.. And after replacing one or two of the older visco/thermo -style clutches in my time, I can see how having the PCM know about a misbehaving clutch would be a good thing.

ok so i should go out, bring the battery voltage up on the gryphon screen, turn everything on, then put it into drive with the brakes on, so basically its just in drive not rolling, and then see what my voltage is at?


thanks guys btw!

Here's another good thread on under drive pulleys:
http://dygytalworld.ehost-services13...ighlight=drive

Lars

Oh, I think you're being a bit modest. You seem to understand and make inferences from what you read too. Not everyone can do that.

The part I "bolded" in your quote seems to make a case against e-fans, doesn't it? An intelligent fan that puts little to no drag on the engine at highway speed, but that runs (through a direct couple) when the engine is at idle to keep everything cool. Some people forget that the power for e-fans HAS to come from somewhere, and that "somewhere" is the alternator that is powered by the engine. Anytime you increase the load on the alternator, you MUST increase drag on the engine. And, since there is a "middleman", sort of, in this system (the alternator), you cannot have 100% transference of power to the fans, since nothing is 100% efficient.

And, to the th3godf4th3r (and everyone else), sorry that I hijacked this thread. It's one of my great failings. :o :sigh:

- Jack