no hating buddy lots of great info. just had a contribution test done on mine and was told the number 8 was bad so i payed 357 bucks for 1 injector, truck runs the same.:thumbsdwn:
just had my muffler put back on my 5" exhaust and the truck felt faster with stock exhaust :hmmm:. sorry to get off topic

Nothing is off-topic here! Let it flow!

cool, as soon as my tundra sells i will be ordering my chip :happy-dancing:. wifey put my spending on hold till i sell it though.:(

That is what I am waiting on... money from selling my tires and tonneau cover and Gryphon, after those are gone Ill get the phoenix and an insight for guages :D. and yeah, no such thing as off topic here, I want to learn as much as I can since i've never done anything with diesels before... except breath in their smoke! :hehe:
just a thought... one injector is $357?! all eight cost $1100 for remanned units.. gotta love the stealership! :throwup:

so i clicked on an ad at the top of this page and it took me to "dieselsite". after looking around I saw a few products, such as the wicked wheel, and now I have a few questions. First: what is the benefit of a wicked wheel and how would I know that I need one? I read that it helps get rid of "turbo surge". so second question: what is turbo surge?
I also saw a "intake heater plug" that says it helps unblock the intake. is this an issue? does this $9.00 part really make a difference in performance?
next question: are the intercooler and turbo boots that they sell worth it? do they help keep up pressure? do the stock ones really suck that bad?
Thanks for the answers! :D

i orderd a ww just to get alittle more turbo sound, yes i know silly. It will help reduce surge but thats it no performance gain. Ialso bought that delete plug, it just seems you wouldnt want any restriction of air flow, i could be wrong though. i would think as long as your stock intercooler boots are not leaking why change them, now riffraff has the really nice blue ones but i would have them just for the look.
i dont know anything about these trucks all this i speak of i have just gotten from reading on the net, so if Cody says anything different please listen to him :thumbs up yellow:

Thanks for the insights, I agree with the idea of "if it ain't broke, dont fix it" but at 172600 miles I would imagine that they are getting pretty worn... idk how leaky that would make them though.
another question: Cody said that I might have u-joint problems because of a noise I hear when decelerating off the freeway, He said I can fairly easily take the driveshaft off and check the u-joints, but my question is do I need a special tool to put new ones in or can I just push hard or hammer them in? Thanks again! :D

I got by for years with sockets, a vice, and a hammer. However, there are press tools out there now for doing u-joints. They're not hard, but you can damage the yokes and/or shorten the life of the new joints if not installed properly.

Youtube has a ton of u-joint replacement/inspection videos.

good to know, thanks :D, what's your opinion on the other things I mention in the previous post?

JMO so take it for what it's worth....

forget about the wicked-wheel, I doubt you have surge problems. Now after you put a chip on it you may experience surge & you'll know when you do, a ported compressor housing is the 100% cure but costs $$$. The w-w is the older style wheel which will flow a little less air but might take care of the surge. BTW you can get a w-w for $75 @ XDP

I don't put much stock in the heater delete plug deal, might make a difference if you're trying to make a 500hp engine.

The boots look nice & if you have a leak would be a good thing but if it ain't broke don't f with it.

I'd put the gauges & chip then go from there, I'm sure there will be plenty of things to spend your $$ on :thumbs up yellow: