Ok, what's the best way to manually turn the engine? Don't you have to do something to let the pressure out..or does it go out the exhaust valves? So what is the coolant plug for? Would it be any use when draining the coolant?

Use a breaker bar & socket on the bolt on the crankshaft damper bolt to turn the crank a little, shoot I'd just try to get it by bumping the starter but I've never wanted to know that bad. You are gonna have to put some a$$ into it to turn the crank as you're having to overcome the compression of the engine.

The coolant plug is just for that, draining the coolant out of the block. There is one on the passenger side also.

I can leave the port open when bumping the starter or gotta close it up if it takes a couple of times?

I got plans to do stage II/III injectors, GTP38R, and Adrenaline hpop

I'd leave the plug out & bump the starter. I'm curios tho why even bother ?

Aren't PMRs only rated for a certain HP? 500 IIRC. And doesn't PHP only offer the 140tune on forged rods?

Well the old rule of thumb was 400HP on PMR's. But this limit was set when tuning was not as great as it is now. If you could use a larger nozzle and less timing, you could keep cylinder pressures in check while still making good, safe power.

Stay tuned to Bill's thread, think this might disprove alot of previous assumptions.

So I took some pics of my U-joints a bit ago, i hope they upload here right, can anyone tell me off first look if they should be replaced?
http://forum.gopowerhungry.com/membe...-16-20-165.jpg
http://forum.gopowerhungry.com/membe...-16-40-976.jpg
http://forum.gopowerhungry.com/membe...-16-33-315.jpg
http://forum.gopowerhungry.com/membe...-17-00-846.jpg
http://forum.gopowerhungry.com/membe...-17-13-410.jpg

Thanks for the help! :cheesy smile:
My thoughts are that it can't hurt, but if they look like they will be fine then I will spend my money on other things :cheesy smile:
Thanks!

I can't tell by looking at the pics, I've always just grabbed the drive shaft & shake & twist it to feel for any loose motion in the u-joints.

The one on the rear diff looks a bit funny to me.

What is that hanging off of it, the dust seal?

Yeah that it what it is as far as I can tell, I'll try shaking the shafts and see, I am planning on replacing them when I get time, do I need to worry about quality our can I just go to the local auto parts store? Thanks