PCM Code
 

So I'll be ordering this chip within the next couple days...

And a HUGE thanks to Cody for answering ALL MY QUESTIONS over the phone on Friday!!

Anyway, I went to the order form, and saw where I should input the code for my PCM, which is also something Cody mentioned to me over the phone (still fairly new to diesels)

So earlier today, I went out and went on a scavenger hunt for this code. I couldn't find it on the side of the PCM (yes, I most definitely located the PCM - 1" x 5" with 1 10mm bolt) and I couldn't see anything with a mirror and a flashlight.

So, I pulled it out. Unhooked the batteries, and then unbolted the PCM, turned it a couple times to take a better look. There is for certain NO STICKER on my PCM. There is, however, what looks like sharpie writing on the side.

The sharpie writing looks like it says 7214, although it was upside down, and whoever wrote it had terrible handwriting.

Is the PCM code crucial to getting me a tune???

What do I do next?!?!?

Thanks!

Well the RIGHT way would be to actually have the code read off of the PCM binary....but that takes shipping the PCM back and forth or taking the truck to a shop that has a scan tool capable of reading the PCM code.

The other way is to guess.

What year and transmission?

It's a 99.5, so it's got the late '99 engine, and early '99 suspension - build date of 02/99

Don't remember the trans. code, I'm pretty sure it's not the e4od tho...R4100 maybe?

EDIT: I'll take a look under the truck today and figure out what Trans it is.

BUMP! I want to order but won't have time to get to a code reader as soon as I'd like.

I have a 99.5 w/ a build date of 3/99 and my PCM code is NVK3, if it helps?

I appreciate that...I'm not sure it helps any though...

I may just wait until I can have the code read. That way I have a 100% for sure answer.

Ugh. Took the PCM out of the truck, and read the code. Order form sent in!! :cheesy smile: :happy-dancing:

did you get your chip yet?

Yep, got the chip and installed it yesterday before my 300 mile road trip.

The power is amazing!

The shifting under heavier throttle is awesome, but under light throttle not so much. It seems to be "over-clutching" - if you think about it like a manual, in between gears, if you give the truck too much throttle and then let the clutch out it does that forward buck before slowing down to catch up with itself.

I'm assuming that's not normal, but could someone please confirm that? It happens in both 80dd and 120r.

Which shift does it occur in?

I know your order form said that there weren't any transmission modifications but are you sure? Could a previous owner have done something to it?

The tunes you have are very similar to all of the PMT1 tunes that Bill has put out for quite a few months (and it's the most-used 7.3L platform we sell). I have looked at the programs and can find nothing askew with them.

Which shift (1-2, 2-3, 3TCC apply, or 3-4)? I'm wondering if you are feeling the 3rd gear torque converter clutch apply at approximately 35 MPH. Your NVK2 didn't do that under normal driving.

It is most certainly the 3TCC, and somewhat in the 3-4. Is this normal?

The most ridiculous thing about Ford programming is their TCC apply strategies. The 95-97 guys really have it bad because the torque converter clutch apply system consists of an on/off solenoid and valve and a ridiculously long delay between the 3-4 shift. It basically goes from 3rd lock to 4th unlock and back to relocking the torque converter clutch. It does this in a 1.5-2 second window so us guys get a really long, drawn-out shift (seemingly).

The PMT1 strategy that you have in your Super Duty does the same thing...but over a much shorter time. The torque converter clutch is commanded off during the 3-4 shift but it is over a much shorter time and then the fluid pressure is ramped back up (instead of just being turned on) over a time of a few milliseconds. This gives the feel that there really isn't a loss of TCC apply but it IS there.


Without feeling the shifts or being able to scan data during the shifts, it's hard to know what is actually going on. I'm going to say that your torque converter system is likely a bit more responsive than most to fluid pressure changes. Unfortunately, I cannot say for sure.

I'm not quite sure what that means...

In other words, am I going to toast my tranny using this chip, or should I be good to go? I mean, I LOVE the extra power that I'm getting, and the shifts feel great when I'm on the throttle, but when cruising around town at ~35mph when the TCC kicks in, and it does that jerking thing, I don't wanna burn up the trans.

Since I didn't go back to read if I already posted it, I'll try to describe the feeling.

It's like if you're in a manual trans car, and you go to switch gears, push in the clutch, shift, and then hit the gas a little bit before releasing the clutch (almost like you let the clutch out a little too fast when not racing and just dumping it) making the car forward buck a little before slowing down the RPM's to properly engage the gear.

That is kinda funny because mine kinda (not kinda it does) BUCK for lack of a better way to describe it. Just does it on the 65t under light throttle at the same shift. If I put my foot in it the shifts are great but in town it feels like something is gonna tear up. I've been using the 80dd with the horse trl & temps stay good, so I'm hoping it is something that could be adjusted when I see ya'll at Bandimere in Aug.

OK, I get it now.

You're not going to hurt a thing. It may be a bit awkward feeling, but it is ONLY the torque converter clutch applying at a fater rate than stock.

The longer it takes the shift (or torque converter clutch to apply), the more "burn time" there is, and the more damage it does. The factory designed these SD trucks to shift "transparently" so that you can't feel the shifts. Unfortunately, it also takes a toll on the friction elements inside the transmission by causing a lot of heat during the shift.

By shortening the time it takes the shift to occur, the heat produced by the friction elements is kept to a minimum. The only drawback is the firmness of the shift. It is fixable.....but at the expense of drawn-out shifts; which for a higher-hp shifts can burn up frictions in very little time.

been reading a little bit about this PCM code.

Apparently the PMT1 is supposed to be the "best"

Since mine is NVK2 - it specifies "49S/AUTO/COLD"

what would the difference between the 2 be?

What does that 49s/auto/cold mean?

Well, A LOT of people think it's the "best". I personally love it, but my ex-wife hates it. She really liked the NVK4 strategy better because of the lack of TCC apply soon after the 2-3 shift. Most driving styles will cause the NVK2/4 PCMs to apply the torque converter clutch after the 3-4 upshift at 38-42 MPH.

Some don't like it. It's kind of the nature of the beast, but since most all people who are able to run PMT1 really like the way it works over their current strategy, that's the one we normally use.

49-state (non California)
Automatic transmission
Increased start of injection when cold for smoke control.

EDIT: didn't see teh second post.