weired idle
 

Ok here is a video finally of my weird idle. I finally got a new ipr and the truck runs much better and smokes less. It still idles funny. The first part of the video is in park the end is in drive. Sometimes in drive at a stop light it will idle like that. Is it normal with my stage 2 single shots with custom fu tune?

http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/v..._VIDEO0010.jpg

Sounds like a miss, but the video quality isn't the best.

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The engine is hoping a little shaking the truck. Sometimes it goes away.

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listen carefully when i let the gas gow it hops a little then it idles normal. was going up a hill maybe half throttle.

ps if you cant hear i will try better video quality,

VIDEO0011.mp4 video by epowers777 - Photobucket

The engine is hoping a little shaking the truck. Sometimes it goes away.

VIDEO0012.mp4 video by epowers777 - Photobucket

listen carefully when i let the gas gow it hops a little then it idles normal. was going up a hill maybe half throttle.

ps if you cant hear i will try better video quality,

Sounds like oil pressure issue to me. I would try to have it hooked up to a scanner and see what the pressure readings are and how/if they change with your idle.

For some reason when you stick the scanner on my truck it wont work. I tryed 4 different scanners all no go. So what controls the oil pressure?

Some history on the truck.
fu chip custom tunes
stage 2 single shot injectors from rosewood (did not idle funny with old injectors)
New ipr
New (sensor on driver head).
Run delo 400 20w 40 (know many people who run this with no problem)

Not 100% sure on the answer to that question...

But I have tried a "generic" scanner on my truck before with no luck. But I can take my truck up to the mechanic, that has a snap-on Modis, and they can start pulling all kinds of info:shrug:

I have been teally busy sorry I will get a better video. I was talking to smeone. You don't think my glow plugs are still cycling do you ?

I dont see how that would affect the idle....but you could still stick a volt meter to check

Try the oil pressure cross over line.... $65 and 30min to install. It balances out the oil pressure on each side of the block. I've heard that it quitens the engine some and has even fixed some idle issues. I'm going to buy it in about a week to see if it fixes my lopey idle.

it can be purchased from sinister diesel

http://www.sinisterdiesel.com/other/...structions.pdf

I will check that out. I am replaceing the cam position sensor with the original black one. I got it fron dieselorings.com I hope it fixes the idle. I would imagine that the gray sensor has well over 100,000 miles on it. I just got it going to hook it up later.

Black, Grey, & Dark Blue Cam Position Sensor Perdels Test - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com

Here is the site I got info from may be your idle issue also.

Well the sensor did not fix the problem poop! I am about ready to pull the injestors and make sure there are no problems underneath and check the torque . Im running out of stuff to do.

That sucks....would be interesting to see if the blue cps would do anything. But your problem could lie with the ICP sensor or IPR valve. Right now I'm building up my bank, and when I get a set amount saved up, I'm just going to start throwing parts at it. And if they don't fix anything, then I have a spare:cheesy smile:

Ok I drove the truck to work. The idle is better but is still there. I sat at raleys for fifteen minutes and it idled perfect. It like slips into a bad idle then slips out. It's really weired.

VIDEO0016.mp4 video by epowers777 - Photobucket

Ok here is a better video! Let me know what you think!

Anybody?

I dont have audio on my work computer.

Here's my exhaust idle sound: YouTube - 7.3 exhaust

Sound familiar?

Mine sound just like yours but worse. What oil are you running?

No clue without being there, Eric.

Ok I got a update. I took if the driver side valve cover and did some inspection. All the injectors were flat (used a level). I re torqued the valve bridges 20 ft pounds. About three were loose (barely) and re torqued my injectors 10 ft pounds which is 120 inch pounds. ALL my injectors were loose! Some quarter turn some 2 turns.
While I was there I did the quarter mod. The plug was unplugged a hair so I put the valve cover on threw 4 bolts in starter her up warmed her up and it still has the funky idle but it idled much quieter. So I'm going to do the passenger side next and will write back.

Sounds like you're on to something....get back and let us know how it turns out.

I run rotella 15-40. I was running valvoline 10-30/40. It seemed to smooth out after I changed oils.

You wouldn't happen to be able have some pics of removing the valve cover to post up would you? How long did the driver side take?

Next time I do it on a stock rig I will take some pic's for ya.

I took some pics I will post them soon. I found a glow plug unplugged. I ohm the injectors re torqued everything put all back together and it still idles the same:cursin: :cursin: :cursin: :cursin: :cursin:

VIDEO0016.mp4 video by epowers777 - Photobucket

Please watch this video i posted earlier i need help DAVE!!!! I think its the tunes.

O it wasnt that cold and it would go to high idle like say 800 and it idles perfect. tap the gas a boom it starts idling crappy.
Ps I did an hpop oil change so i warmed it up 4 times 10 minutes each.

YouTube - 7.3 powerstroke cam lope idle

Thats what my truck does so its normal?

.....and it may very well be.

What is the "normal" warm idle speed?
What are the IPR and ICP doing?

^^ That's where my money is.

Thats what I'm thinking could be the culprit as well, in both epowers777 and my truck. IIRC....the sensor....you can tell its bad if oil is coming up through it...right? Whats the diagnosis procedure on the other parts?

I would also like to replace the LPOP because I'm getting long starts and a surge at acceleration.

epowers777, if you think its the tunes...why dont you revert back to stock and see if there any changes???

Thanks, man....that will be a great refference that I haven't been able to find anywhere online.

What would you guess would be an estimated time on taking the valve covers on and off?

Book time for cover gaskets R&R is 2.1 hr.

If you are good at it, you can do it in well under an hour.

He's got stage 2's. Hard to pinpoint an idle issue running on stock programming that way.

He's already replaced sensors. We may be fighting IPR duty cycle problems at this point....not uncommon, but usually close enough for the thousands of trucks that are tuned daily.

Yea, guess that would pose a problem. So throw a new IPR at it? I'm comfortable at throwing SOME parts at it. At least I know I'll be good in that area for another 200k (knock on wood).

On edit: found this thread... http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/...ght=ipr+socket

Wow lots going on! Cleatus I am trying hard to get a scanner. Ford wants a 150 :censored1: Hate dealers. Im thinking of getting a Auto Enginuity off of ebay for my truck. Are those good?

rammertide07 Check this link out

Also this link

Ipr Rebuild

I got all my parts of off of ebay there the cheapest place i have found.

rammertide07 is yours a dually post a pic.

negative ghost rider...

F350 Powerstroke pictures by rammertide07 - Photobucket

Ok here's my update. We did every test in the book. My POP test passed flying colors. The injector test were it cuts them off at idle failed miserably. He states the first 4 cylinders in the firing order failed the test. I think 1-6 8-5 failed. So he thinks my computer that runs the injectors are bad. So he gave me one and I tested it. It ran great idled great even pulled the chip and idled smoothed. Drove about 18 miles and it started again but not that bad. So he want me to drive it for a couple of days and we will test it again.

Cody here's the numbers icp v .80 - .88 at 480 pressure at 12% we didn't get the idle sorry.

Let me know what you think. And he thinks it has the wrong computer in it. He thinks its a early 99 computer with a late 99.5 engine. We will swap computers later.

I was wondering if someone could give me the schematic so I can test the wires from the idm to the actual injector harness. I think I may have a brake in the wires. And is there a way to test the idm?

To check the injector circuits on the left side of the engine, put one lead of an ohmmeter to IDM pin 23 (Pink/Yellow). Then take the other lead and go to pin 22 (White), pin 7 (Brown/Light Blue), pin 19 (Light Green/Orange) and pin 9 (Light Blue). Each reading should be between 2 ohms and 5 ohms.

To check the injector circuits on the right side of the engine, put one lead of an ohmmeter to pin 24 (Orange), then place the other lead on pin 6 (Tan), pin 21 (Brown/Yellow), pin 8 (Tan/Black) and pin 20 (Tan/Red). Again, each circuit should read 2-5 ohms.

Dave is this the actual idm plug or the engine harness plug for pin 23 and 24 correct?
And the other pins you unplug the under valve cover harness?

Thanks Dave. What do you think about my findings with the scanner?

This is with the IDM disconnected and everything else attached, testing from the IDM connector.

It is really hard to say about the CCT faults, with aftermarket injectors I would not put a lot of faith in the test.

How many times did you run the CCT....was it consistently flagging the same cylinders?

He ran it like 8 times yes it flagged the same cylinders . He told me the same thing that they aren't that accurate so he ran it a bunch of times. He was thinking those cylinders shared the same coil or something in the idm.

I was reading about the injectors that if you take the top cover of the injector there's a plate you remove and under the plate there's a nut and if they become loose you get ruff idled and will fail that test. Do you think they are loose since there brand new injectors?

ok I ohmed my IDM harness. everything was within 3.0 and 3.3 except Pin 22 it read 95.4 ohms. So Im guessing i got a crack so im hunting for it.

Ok my Harness tested bad So does that mean i need a new harness or is the injector bad?

The only way to know is to try and figure out where your extra resistance is, could be a bad injector solenoid, UVCH/ or connector, bad connection or pushed out pin in the main engine harness connector, or a break/ corrosion in that one wire(white/pin 22).

I would ohm out that injector circuit right at the cover gasket and see if it is on that side of the harness before going any further.

Dave I want to apologize for my bad typing. The under the valve cover harness tested bad.
So just get a new under the valve cover harness? Just a reminder the pop test came back good all injectors popped strong. All the pins tested good except the 22 pin (white wire) on the uvch.