need help
 

I just received my pheonix chip this morning got it all installed. install went great. my problem is between stock,80dd, 100p and 120 race the only performance i see is i blow more black smoke the higher the setting. now power gains at all. i tried pulling a 6% 3mile grade on each different setting and i have no more power at stock then i do at 120 just when i give it some throttle i roll the smoke. i pulled over after trying the 120. shut off the truck removed the chip it was a little warm.(warm to the feel but no warmer the the computer.) thinking maybe my connection was bad but no difference. any suggestions. i thought of disconnecting the batteries. any help please would be great.

Bill - would you please elaborate on your setup? What year is your truck and what other mods have you done? Since your seeing more black smoke, your getting more fuel, so chances are the chip is working. First thing to check would be your air filter and restriction gauge, then hook up a boost gauge (if you don't already have one) and see what you've got there. Hope its an easy fix and welcome to the forum :howdy:

I would look over the truck for any boost or exhaust leaks (pre-turbo), also check the EBPV to make sure it is not stuck closed or partially closed.

Do you have a scanner or any way to monitor boost and exhaust back-pressure?

Any CEL?

sorry i have a 2001 f350 4x4 psd 6spd.
afe cold air intake (just cleaned a couple weeks ago)
4in turbo back
ats ported housing
pyro and boost gauges

the only thing that has changed on this truck today is i removed the POS bullydog programmer.

i left the bully dog on the 75h setting it really was all i needed. but it gave me nothing but problems constant over boost codes as soon as i hit 18psi and i actually decreased mpg on hwy 3-4mpg over stock.

so i went with this chip hoping it would fix the problem. im not getting codes. it honestly drive no different the stock in any setting setting except i rolls the smoke out the tailpipe more every setting i go up.

i just don't know. i am really disapointed rite now. i pulled the computer back out cleaned everything some more left the batteries disconnected for 30min. tried it again still the same.

no codes or no check engine lighet. i ran it down to work we have a scanner. did a couple tests on the scanner and erverything looked good.

the truck drives just like a stock powerstroke my buddy hopped in and drove. he agreed didnt matter what setting still the same.

exhaust valve wasnt stuck.

What is your boost gauge reading on the different setting's? Does that ported ATS housing still have a waste gate that could be partially stuck open? Where is your boost gauge installed, hot or cold side of intercooler? could the IC possibly be restricted or have cracked hoses? If you pull the chip and reinstalled the bully dog is there a difference between stock and its 75 horse setting? Just throwin this easy stuff out there, hope it helps.

My brother installed his fu2 yesterday, and is having same problems. They called Bill and he was looking into it. I've had nothing but a good time with mine. Call Bill or Cody, and have them look at your parameters for your tunes.

i put the bully dog back in this morning. its like flipping a light switch from stcok to 75hrs. no comparison on performance between the two. I'm calling cody monday morning to find out whats going on.

dont know how or why but i put the chip back on my truck. after i put on a couple hundred miles on my trip, i flip it over to 100 and it kicked in. everything is working fine. dont know what changed?

:hmmm: wierd but glad its workin for ya, :thumbs up yellow: keep us posted

Any one hear what fixed this? My brother said his Superchips had more power than the custom tunes he just got on his FU2. It's to the point its costing him money for work. I am a very satisfied customer, but he's making me eat my words. I'd love to have him as satisfied as I am, but he's to the point he wants to send the chip back. It's now been a week. Bill? Cody?

I passed a note on to the guys "up-stairs".

don't get me wrong. i can tell its working but im not getting the power i was with the bullydog. the 120 setting is about the same as 75 horse setting on my bullydog. the 100 horse feels about like the 50 on bully dog. and the 80 daily driver i cant even tell its on. i also have the 80 and 60 tow settings. ive have towed anything yet but i can't tell they are working either. The only good thing about the chip is im not getting codes and check engine light coming on constantly. i also lost about 1.5mpg over stock on the highway. and 2.5 in town. im not much of a speed demon i keep it about 70. so i know its the chip and not the foot. the bullydog i lost 3-4 no matter in town or highway. i averaged 16 stock highway and 13.5 town stock. ive been trying to get a hold of cody but havnt got him on the phone yet.

And you are doing these comparisons on a fully warmed up engine?

Makes a HUGE difference!

Are you sure you're not looking at this from an accelerator pedal feel standpoint? Most other tuning companies make the accelerator pedal feel like an on/off switch and command full fuel by about 1/2 "throttle". Besides, BullyDog has fairly aggressive "timing" on their tuning and yes, it does give the truck a more sprightly feel.

You really need to do some diagnostics on your truck, Bill. It shouldn't run like a complete turd as there are a lot of the same 99.5-01 manual trucks running around with the exact same tuning you have (OneMeanStroker from this thread for instance).

As for Shawn, I'm beginning to wonder if Brian's truck has stage 2 injectors or not...if it runs fine with canned programming from Superchips, he does not have single shots nor larger nozzles.

more info
 

yes i always wait till my motor is warmed up. dont want to jeperdize my motor. i did notice i had to give half to full throttle before i could feel the difference on flat ground. under load steep grades i just have to nudge the throttle before i notice the chip working. on 80dd and tow it feels no different then running stock. yes mainly off throttle response. as far as getting my truck looked at. i have no one in town besides ford and they are a bunch of idiots. i was getting the turbo flutter and they blamed my new clutch, my computer and my valve cover harness. so i replaced everything except my clutch. still same problem. tried to get me to put another 4,000.00 in it for enjectors and turbo. they told me they didnt think it was the problem but it was worth a shot. so i stopped there and got online and research the forums and found the ats housing. needless to say they just want your money not fix the problem. I live in eastern oregon, so if you know anyone that knows what your doing within the area let me know.

Cody, do you think it would be worth a shot to program for regular injectors. I'd love for him to eat his words.:giggle:

Also, would he be able to switch to a FU chip at that point.

You should have the same programming base calibration that he does......

Do you have an FU Shawn?
Just burn his chip with the FU you have (provided you have the FU) and see what happens..... :D

He can always use his to reburn back to his FU2 tunes if it doesn't work out. If it turns out that his works well with stock-injector programming......

So just plug it in to my burner and poof. Sounds worth a try. Really hope it works. Will it work with my tunes?

As long as the hex code you're using is VOAA7P6.

Heck, just take yours out and put it in his!

That would work, except I live in Omaha, and he lives in Denver. He's supposed to come out this weekend, and I'll ask him to bring his chip.

There ya go. Be sure to let me know how it goes...... :)

He's reluctant. Being a pain in the ***. He'd like to hear from y'all, not me. He's not 100% sold on the customer service. Plus he doesn't think since he has 40 hp split shots, that he can run fu chip. Please explain to him that he should just try my tunes, or have y'all send him the fu tunes so he can see if they work.

took it to a shop.
 

took my truck to a diesel shop out of town today came highly recommended by some people and are good on cummins and strokers. they ran a bunch of tests. the only code stored was cam sensor error. cleared it. did some driving test and streamed it. when they were all done they went over everything with me. under hard acceleration my oil and fuel pressure was on the high side. but not out of range. my #8 cylinder injector was fluctuating some. said i should thing about replacing it. other then that they had no concerns. the cam sensor code didnt come back after testing. they didnt think this should affect my chip any. anyone have any more ideas.

He has 40 Hp split shots but it's tuned for stage 2 single shots? (According to what Cody said earlier).... no wonder the superchips runs way better. Burn some regular tunes on his chip, it'll be a night and day difference. I'm sure the tunes could probably be optimized even more for his upgraded split shots.... but trying to run on tuning for stage 2 singles is clearly the problem.

Edit: Cody, I sent you a PM with a quick question.

I agree, but he wants to have the folks at PHP tell him, not me.

Not trying to be a **** Cody but you might stay on Bill's problem here as it's his thread and your chip.

That's my fault. I pulled it to the side and PM'd Cody. Sorry Bill.

no problem. just waiting for cody or someone to respond. to many times zones apart have a hard calling him. just waiting for him to respond.

I was on the fence until now between PHP and Cale's tunes. Adios :howdy:

Catman2, the PHP tunes are awesome. Don't know much about Cale's tunes. I even just bought PHP tunes for the Excursion. Worlds above some others I've tried.

Cale's tunes are no better or worse than PHP's. Cale has less exposure.

customer service
 

i do have to say. php has the worst customer service i have ever had to deal with. i have emailed with no response. called countless times and havnt got ahold of anyone or corey wasnt in. and have been on this forum waiting for replies and nothing. as far as im concerened i just wasted 400.00 dollars.

If you PM Cody, he's normally back to you pretty quick. It's a smaller company with tremendous growth and popularity. Hard to keep up with sometimes I guess. I have had great response from them when PMing them, but you're right, e-mails go unanswered a lot. I've only called twice, and was lucky both times apparently. Definitely NOT a waste of $400 though. REALLY HAPPY with my FU, and even ordered a GRYPHON because of it. Mileage and performance at the flip of a switch, love it.

If there is a connection problem, there will be no difference at all between any of the positions and your most likely problem is that the truck won't even start.

If you feel ZERO difference in the power between the 80 and 120 programs (but see more smoke), you NEED to see what your injection pressure is and what your injection pressure regulator is doing.

My guess is that your high pressure oil system is weak.

Bill and I had a truck on the Dyno last weekend that struggled to make the same 300 HP that it did last year on someone else's tuning. It turns out that 290 was all we were going to get regardless of what we did with the tuning. Once we hooked the scanner to the truck to see what was going on, it turns out that 1800 PSI was all the HPO system was able to deliver. Sure, it smoked good at the bottom end, but anything over 65-80 HP in the tuning was pointless for all-out power.


The accelerator pedal is designed to feel "stock-ish" until 1/3-1/2 "throttle".

On the customer support side of things, I feel like I have been very interactive on what is going on here......I asked you to have some diagnostics done because there is no difference between the tuning on your truck and OneMeanStroker's truck if you're using the FU or Phoenix with standard calibrations but I have yet to hear about anything you've found in that regard.

It depends.......

I've run a TON of different programming on my various 7.3L trucks and actually started tuning my own just because my preferences are so much different than everyone else out there.

My best advice is to try a whole bunch of different tuners' programs and see what you like/dislike about each. There isn't one out there that will be perfect (for everyone's individual tastes) in all areas. Bill's tuning isn't perfect for everybody and he'll be the first to tell you that. I feel the same way about my own personal tuning....it's different, but I like it.

so the chip isn't really working till you hit 1/3 to 1/2 throttle? i guess bullydog was just programmed different. you even nudge the throttle and you can feel the difference. the only time i get on the throttle that much is when im towing or some in front of me is driving to damn slow and i buz around them. i have had some dianostics done a week ago its on page 3 post 25. and sent you 2 emails after no response to my post.

I use the 100 HP as my DD. It has more low end throttle response than the 80 HP. It still get pretty good milage. The daily just didn't have the kick off the line that I was looking for. I have a 6sp, with a SBC. Didn't see what you have. I did just rebuild my HPOP with the kit from Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines. I have no affiliation with these guys, but between me and my two brothers, we've done quite a lot of business with them. Small mom and pop, that ships the same day you order. I live in Omaha, and received it the next day. I ordered early in the morning. They are located just outside Denver. He has the HPOP o ring complete kits for not a lot of money. It took me longer to wait for the blue rtv and loctite to dry than to do the actual removal, rebuild, and reinstallation. Do the complete kit, not much more, and while you have it torn down, why not? I had a pesky fuel and oil leak for about five years that I spent over a grand at a dealer right before I moved that they still never fixed, and then the next dealer wanted about the same. It took me about 30-35 hrs (24 was to wait for loctite to dry and cure). the entire kit, including the non-serviceable plug, which you have to do, since it most times is the main culprit, including mine, plus the fuel and oil line tools is about $75!!! Cheap insurance. Being someone that paid an exorbitant amount of money at a dealer, then found out it was as simple as it was... That would be a stage 3 water/methanol system in the truck right now. If you do order the kit, might as well get the fumoto valve and install that at you next oil change, and make life even easier, just get the one with the nipple. Hope this helps, I know about frustration, as Cody can attest, we've been trying to get my brothers FU2 worked out, and it's almost been a family feud. Looks like we found it to be injector shot. Let me know if you have any questions.

This is the response I sent from your PM to me earlier:

I haven't gotten one single email from you. If you're sending them to Bill or Corey, I can understand that they may not have been answered yet, but I haven't gotten even ONE. Corey doesn't answer many emails because of health issues (heck, she hasn't been in the office for 2 months and works from her laptop in bed when she feels physically able to work), and Bill gets nearly 100 legitimate emails a day so some of those go unanswered sometimes.


How did the shop measure fuel pressure? There isn't a sensor for that so scanning it won't tell them anything there. Oil pressure "on the high side" means little. Do they know what they're looking for? 3000 PSI is normal under heavy loads for aftermarket tuning and if they're getting that, then that's good. It's very unlikely that your stock high pressure oil pump is able to keep up with the injector demand in high-HP programs though, so 2400-2500 PSI would be more like it (if not a little lower)....which is NOT high. If the truck is only able to muster low ICP under load with a high IPR duty cycle, then that issue needs to be addressed. Keep in mind that the 99.5-01 Powerstrokes are only capable of a realistic 100 RWHP gain anyway and the higher-hp tunes are only designed to fuel more off of the bottom end.

Conversely, if they were to test the system in a stock tune, 2600-2800 PSI would be normal (and good) under heavy load.

We wouldn't have had that problem had we known what the injectors actually were when the tunes were initially built......Bill called Brian last night to let him know the new calibrations were on the FU2 server for him.

...and he has gone from 9-10 MPG to 21!!! With a trailer even.

the emails went to whoever sent me my invoice i believe it was corey. but anyways it is what it is. i will get a hold of the shop on monday and see if they have anything stored or wrote down. i dont know the #'s. they checked it on stock i know that. if not im just gonna let it go and deal with it. cant afford to take another day off work and drive 200 miles to have my truck looked at and fork over another $100 or more.

I apologize for the disappointment, but for the most part all 7.3L trucks respond the same to similiar changes in tuning. What runs well in one SHOULD run well in the other. What piques my interest here is that there are hundreds of customers running calibrations just like yours with no similar concerns.

Let me know what you come up with.

in stock at idle.
injector control pressure. 548-560psi
manifold pressure 13.02psi 26.5 inhg
waste gate duty cycle 18%

stock under load/ heavy acceleration
injector control pressure 2400-2600psi peak was 2743.11
manifold absolute pressure 22psi 45inhg
fuel pulse width 2.4 msec
wastegate duty cycle 98.8%

no codes before or after stock test

chip on 100hrs load/ heavy acceleration
injector control pressure 2350-2550psi peaked was 2611.24
manifold absolute pressure 29.35psi 49.2inhg
fuel pulse width 2.2msec
wastegate duty cycle 94.3%

when on the 100hrs setting these codes came up while testing.
p1249 p0603 p0340 p1211 p1249 p0603a



the computer i borrowed was a genisis updated with 4.0 obdII. it wouldnt read oil pressure.
not sure if this helps or not. if you need more info let me know i have the computer till tuesday.

See bold/underlined above. The P1211 is normal for a chipped truck and a stock HPO system.

There is one more thing I'd like for you to look at for me. When the injection pressure (ICP) is around 2300 PSI under load, what is the injection pressure regulator (IPR) doing? That value will be in "%" and expressed as duty cycle. If you can (SAFELY!!!), run the truck from 45-80 MPH in 6th gear WOT. Watch the ICP and IPR as well as the pulse width value at that time. Thanks!

By the way, the Genisys happens to be my favorite scanner....well, short of what I know about the Snap-On Verus.

i only got it tested on 100hrs

injector pressure all the way though 45-80 stay between 2000-2300
fuel pulse width started at 3.6 and stopped about halfway and stayed steady on 4.7
manifold pressure started at 20 and at end was 31.23

injector pressure regulator started at 38% and finished at 58%
the injector control pressure stayed within .5% the hole time.

i will test on stock tomorrow.

it was hard testing almost everytime it would through a code and stop recording.
now all these codes in all the testing wouldnt make the engine light come. they were just stored codes.

The 2000-2300 PSI is your problem.
The programming is calling for 2900-3000 PSI in the 80+ HP tunes.....

You're losing a lot of volume and atomization.

fix?
 

i am heading out now to retest just to make sure. its had watching for cops and the road and the computer at the same time.

if this is the problem what is the fix for it. u have obviously done more over the computer than any shop i have taken it to. thanks for getting on this.

the results on the 100 horse were the same. i forgot to let you know the wastegate code and the 1211 come up on every test i floor it. the wastegate percentage stays up till about halfway then drops rapidly to 84.3 and stays there thats about when the code comes. normal?

on stock

injector pressure 1800 by top end 2650.
pulse width 2.7 ended at 3
wastegate stayed at 98.8%
duty cycle 30-end at 38%
injector pressure spike for about 2 seconds a little less at 2694
no codes came up on stock run ran it 3 times it spiked all three times close to that pressure.
when just driving an hit it about 1/4 to 1/2 throttle it on either setting it stays around 2550-2800.

All of that sounds normal for stock vs. higher-HP tunes.

The wastegate code comes up because of the high boost (uncontrollable with the extra fuel).

Your injection pressure is low in the 100 horsepower tune, but it's due to the high pressure oil pump not being able to keep up with the demand of the injectors. Don't feel too bad though, my '00 F-250 won't even maintain 2000 PSI in a 50-60 HP tune.......

so everything is normal? just need to replace the hpop if i want all i can get out of the chip. do you all sell or recommend a hpop.

We don't sell or really recommend pumps (since we're not in that business), but we do work with Bob Riley at Dieselsite. He sells the Adrenaline pump which we've found to be a really decent pump at a good price. That should help with mid-high demand BUT.......

Your REAL issue (as well as everyone who owns a stock-ish 99-03 7.3L) is the injectors. The split shot design is good for idle noise and emissions....but HELL on high pressure oil. As the injectors start to wear, they "use" more oil. Mine are at 241K miles and as I have mentioned elsewhere....anything over 3.4 mS of pulsewidth and I am running 2000 PSI max. I never really NEED the power, so for now, the injectors work just fine (save for low-temperature starts) since I can't afford a good set of singles right now.

so im getting ready to put in new injectors and hpop. am i going to need to re-burn my chip or is it fine. and what do you charge?

I'd put the injectors in first & then go from there, your pump may be just fine for the single shot injectors. You will have to have the chip re-burned but I think PHP has a deal if you buy the injectors from them they re-burn the chip free, I THINK.

my truck is starting surge some in 100 horse setting at low rpm at steady throttle around town between 1200 to 1900. seams like its worse at lower rpm. the higher the rpm's are the better it gets and goes away. 01 ford 6sp 4x4