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I just got a 2002 7.3L Crew Cab! :D
So I decided to upgrade my truck... to a powerstroke :D, It is the 7.3, Crew Cab, 6ish foot bed, and it has a manual tranny, and now that I have my very first diesel truck I have a few questions.
First: When I do upgrade my truck to get better performance, what should I do first? Second: I need to improve my vocabulary/truck knowledge... so I have read a lot of terms on diesels, such as HPOP, and while I know that an HPOP is a High Pressure Oil Pump, I don't exactly know what that means or what it does or why it helps. Another is the difference in fuel injectors, stage one, two, three, hybrid, or whatever else there is, where can I read to learn why these are different, and which I would want? Third: What do I need to worry about for my truck's future health? is it fairly straight forward? just keep the fluids changed when needed and dont hit anything or is there more that I now need to worry about? Thanks in advance for all the help and answers! |
To hell with the truck
What about the wedding....... |
Haha my wife liked that comment a lot... :D, the wedding went well, we got married on monday the 18th, had the honeymoon that week, and the reception was on Friday the 22nd. We went to a place called the Zermatt, it was a really nice hotel and we got the room for a great price :D. The saturday after the reception we had a family reunion with my dad's family, and then we left to colorado on Monday the 25th. :D, what else do you want to know? :cheesy smile:
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Don't have a lot of time to type some stuff/recommendations or I would, but here is an awesome resource. DTS Articles - Coffee Table Books
Download any of 7.3 PSD documents, each are worth taking a look through at least once since you're now an owner. Here's some basic injector stuff. Power Hungry Performance Forum - FAQ: Ford Power Stroke Diesel FAQs Here's a good discussion on injectors but might seem over your head to start out with. http://forum.gopowerhungry.com/1999-...injectors.html Sounds like a nice vehicle, oh... and pictures! |
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it needs some body work, lots of little scratches and a few bigger spots that need to be repainted, plus the rear bumper needs to be replaced at some point in the future... but ill get around that soon enough... Again thanks for the help :D |
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I hope you know I was just busting stones about the wedding, sounds like a good one :thumbs up yellow: |
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So I decided to upgrade my truck... to a powerstroke :D, It is the 7.3, Crew Cab, 6ish foot bed, and it has a manual tranny, and now that I have my very first diesel truck I have a few questions.
First: When I do upgrade my truck to get better performance, what should I do first?IMO, open up the exhaust and intake. Then buy gauges (pyro, boost, transmission temp. Then you "safe" to add a chip/tuner Second: I need to improve my vocabulary/truck knowledge... so I have read a lot of terms on diesels, such as HPOP, and while I know that an HPOP is a High Pressure Oil Pump, I don't exactly know what that means or what it does or why it helps.A simple explanation of why the 7.3 needs the HPOP, diesel detonates at high pressure and warm or hot cylinder temps. To get the diesel in there at high pressure, you need a high pressure pump to get it in there. The truck wouldn't run without it. There are aftermarket pumps to push larger injectorsAnother is the difference in fuel injectors, stage one, two, three, hybrid, or whatever else there is, where can I read to learn why these are different, and which I would want? You can look on PHP site where they sell the injectors. It gives a breakdown of each stage they offer in the box next to them Third: What do I need to worry about for my truck's future health? is it fairly straight forward? just keep the fluids changed when needed and dont hit anything or is there more that I now need to worry about? Thanks in advance for all the help and answers!For oil, you might want to change every 6000miles. You could get the oil tested when you change it by Blackstone for around $22. The test kit is free. I'll post a copy of my results. Not sure about the other fluids. I've heard if you do a GOOD flush on the coolant system...you can put the red coolant in it and never worry about it again. I have my transmission serviced once a year. Blackstone can test transmission fluid as well 2x4 =Two Wheel Drive 4r100 =Automatic Transmission 4 Super Duty Trucks with a 7.3 4x4 =Four Wheel Drive ABS =Anti-Lock Braking System AC =Air Conditioning AIC =Auxiliary Idle Control APCM =Auxiliary Power train Control Module ATF =Automatic Transmission Fluid BARO =Barometric Pressure Sensor BB =Bulletin Board BBS =Bulletin Board System BCA =2nd Best Bearing Company BTW =By the way CC =Crew Cab (4 door) CCV =Crank Case Vent CDR =Crankcase Depression Regulator CPS =Cam Positioning Sensor DORA =Dealer Order Receipt Acknowledgment DRW =Dual Rear Wheels DTC =Diagnostic Trouble Code DVOM =Digital Volt-Ohm Meter E4OD =Auto Transmission on Pre-'99 Ford Pickups EEC =Electronic Engine Control EGT =Exhaust Gas Temperature EOT =Engine Oil Temperature FAQs =Frequently Asked Questions FPR =Fuel Pressure Regulator FWIW =For What it`s Worth GM =General Motors GP =Glow Plug GPR =Glow Plug Relay GVWR =Gross Vehicle Weight Rating HEUI =Hydraulic Actuated Electronic Controlled Unit Injector HPOP = High Presure Oil Pump IAT =Intake Air Temperature Sensor IDM =Injector Drive Module LMAO =Laugh My Arse Off IMHO =In My Humble Opinion IMO =In My Opinion LB =Long Bed LOL =Laugh Out Loud MAF =Mass Air Flow Sensor MAP =Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor OBS =Old Body Style OD =Over Drive OEM =Original Equipment Manufacturer OTC =Owatonna Tool and Equipment Company OMG =Oh My Gosh* PCM =Power train Control Module PCV =Positive Crankcase Ventilation PDL =Power Door Locks PM =Power Mirrors PS =Power Stroke PSD =Power Stroke Diesel PTO =Power Take Off (winch) PTTTM =Power Telescoping Trailer Tow Mirrors PW =Power Windows PWM =Power Window Motor RC =Regular Cab ROFL =Rolling On The Floor Laughing SB =Short Bed SC =Super Cab (extended cab) SRW =Single Rear Wheel TC =Torque Converter or Transfer Case TPS =Throttle Position Sensor TSB =Technical Service Bulletin TTM =Turbo Temp Monitor VAC =Volts Alternating Current VDC =Volts Direct Current VECI =Volts Direct Current W/E =What Ever WOT =Wide Open Throttle |
Congrats!:thumbs up yellow:
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Thanks! I will definitly look into getting the oil tested to see what is going on inside the engine.
Another question, how do I tell if my truck has powdered metal rods? |
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If it's the original engine, 99.99999999LMNOP% that it does. Unless you plan on big power, no need to worry about it. |
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I dont plan on too much, so I guess I should be ok :D. |
If its an 02' its got PMR's.
Buut, if for some reason the motor was changed it could have forged rods. Check this out------->7.3 Inspection Hole for Powdered Metal Rod Determination |
Check by engine S/N located on valve cover or on the block where the oil cooler is bolted up...
Start of production through 1425746 are forged rods 1425747 through 1440712 are PMR 1446713 through 1498318 are forged 1498319 through final production are PMR |
Sorry, but even the serial number chart is wrong. It's bad information. I have proven it twice.
One engine was supposed to have PMRs...was forged. One was a disappointment. The ONLY way to know is to check. |
Well I will just expect them to be PMR's until I get the time to check :D
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Is that the purpose of the inspection port? Or is there anything else to check when having it open? And is there any pre-steps to do before taking the plug out? |
AND...is a sure fire thing that you will be able to tell through the inspection hole...or do you have to manually turn the engine? And what is the plug above the inspection port?
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You WILL be able to tell through the inspection hole. However, you may need to rotate the engine a little to get a rod cap to line up.
No preparation short of finding/making a 5/16" square drive. The plug above is coolant....you don't want to take that out. |
The plug above the is insp hole is the coolant drain plug
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Ok, what's the best way to manually turn the engine? Don't you have to do something to let the pressure out..or does it go out the exhaust valves? So what is the coolant plug for? Would it be any use when draining the coolant?
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The coolant plug is just for that, draining the coolant out of the block. There is one on the passenger side also. |
I can leave the port open when bumping the starter or gotta close it up if it takes a couple of times?
I got plans to do stage II/III injectors, GTP38R, and Adrenaline hpop |
I'd leave the plug out & bump the starter. I'm curios tho why even bother ?
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Aren't PMRs only rated for a certain HP? 500 IIRC. And doesn't PHP only offer the 140tune on forged rods?
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Well the old rule of thumb was 400HP on PMR's. But this limit was set when tuning was not as great as it is now. If you could use a larger nozzle and less timing, you could keep cylinder pressures in check while still making good, safe power.
Stay tuned to Bill's thread, think this might disprove alot of previous assumptions. |
So I took some pics of my U-joints a bit ago, i hope they upload here right, can anyone tell me off first look if they should be replaced?
http://forum.gopowerhungry.com/membe...-16-20-165.jpg http://forum.gopowerhungry.com/membe...-16-40-976.jpg http://forum.gopowerhungry.com/membe...-16-33-315.jpg http://forum.gopowerhungry.com/membe...-17-00-846.jpg http://forum.gopowerhungry.com/membe...-17-13-410.jpg Thanks for the help! :cheesy smile: My thoughts are that it can't hurt, but if they look like they will be fine then I will spend my money on other things :cheesy smile: Thanks! |
I can't tell by looking at the pics, I've always just grabbed the drive shaft & shake & twist it to feel for any loose motion in the u-joints.
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The one on the rear diff looks a bit funny to me.
What is that hanging off of it, the dust seal? |
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so good news and bad news, good news: I figured out why my truck had a the vibration... bad news: I figured out that I have a BROKEN U-joint. The dust cover that Dave pointed out is hanging because that is where the joint is broken. I went out and got new u-joints and I am going to install them this weekend... :/ I hope it doesn't take too long, anyone have any ideas on how long it will take to do all 5?
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If you have never done them before, should take an hour or two.....but if you have the help of someone who has.....under an hour from start to finish.
Couple tips:
Good Luck! |
so I got the rear driveshaft and u-joints taken out, and all put back in, and there are no more vibrations! the problem is that the front driveshaft has a weird u-joint that I can't really do anything with... :/ The workers at the shop said to bring it to a driveline specialist to get the 2 joints replaced.
The good news is that my u-joint wasnt "broken" it just wasn't greased for idk how long... :(. Here is a picture :) http://forum.gopowerhungry.com/membe...ut-u-joint.jpg It is a good thing i replaced that one, at least I think so, I just want to get the last 2 done without any more trouble... :/. Well I am going to get my phoenix now that I know my u-joints can handle it. I am also going to grease up everything I can in my truck so I won't have to worry about it again :D. |
Good job!
I am surprised that joint went out again, it has been changed at least once already. The factory joints seem to last a long time. How many miles were on the truck? |
Yeah i was wondering about those joints... but i don't think it matters how new they are if they run out of grease... lol :D
and it has 173k miles... so I guess the originals should have been greased more often as well... |
I believe the originals didn't have grease fittings, so like Dave said that one was replaced at some point. What does the front drive shaft have a double cardigan joint in it ?
If the fronts are still good remember the old saying "if it ain't broke, don't f with it" or I guess you could use the other saying "if it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is" personally I like the first saying....lol |
Yeah most of the joints haven't had grease fittings, and I agree that it it ain't broke don't fix it, but I already took it out and halfway apart before I realized that I couldn't finish it, so I'm kinda out of luck lol :(
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sounds like you have my luck...lol
does it have a double cardigan on the front drive shaft ? at least you shouldn't have to worry with u-joints for quite some time |
I just saw this thread again, lol, yes it has the funny double cardigan joint. I got it replaced at a shop and I have the phoenix installed and it works great! :D, I just need a new battery now :(. any thoughts on replacing the battery? should I do just the bad one, or is it recommended to do both?
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Change both, and use Motorcraft battery's.
You'll thank me later. |
Do I have to wait? :hehe: I just am not excited about spending more than $200 at once :(. They seem to work well for now, so I think that I will wait til I move to texas in a month.
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