intake and exhaust
 

Hey all again,
So I am thinking of modding the intake and exhaust first in my truck, I like the zoodad mod, and I am looking for info on what filter and possible intake modifications I should do. I mainly want towing power and gas mileage, and as much of both as possible :cheesy smile:.
The other question is what exhaust should I do? I have read about a few options, larger everything, straight pipes, stacks going up through the bed, which of these would be the most benefitial for what I want?
I have seen the phrase "down pipe" is that basically the first piece of the exhaust after the turbo that goes down to the muffler? and what are up-pipes? those go to and from the intercooler?
Again thanks for the help!

The best filter for the money: Tymar. Google is your friend!

Exhaust?
On a budget---straight through muffler on factory pipe.
Money no object---any 4" system. Go with stainless if they salt your roads. Big fan of Diamond Eye. Look up Little Power Shop in the vendor section.

"Downpipe". Yes, from turbocharger turbine outlet to transmission crossmember.
"Up pipes". From exhaust manifolds to turbine inlet.

Don't expect any mileage gains or appreciable power increases from an aftermarket intake or exhaust.

Based on our phone conversation, I think I will stick with the stock intake and exhaust for now, but I am wondering what upgrade to do. When I get the money, I would like either the phoenix or FU chip or a CS. I like the price of the phoenix, the changability of the FU, but I really like and think I need the guages of the CS. If I got the phoenix or the FU chip I would probably get an edge insight so I could have good guages, but that costs quite a bit more which makes the CS make more sense.
What is everyone's opinion on these? Thanks! :D

i just had a 5" exhaust installed on my truck. i did the muffler delete, wow that was a mistake cause the drone is crazy. i will be putting the muffler back on. i have no complaints other than that about the system and im waiting for my truck to get back out the shop to install my tymar intake.
if your going to chip your truck you might need to free up the intake and exhaust some to keep egts in check maybe.
maybe someone with more knowledge will chime in, good luck with what ever route you choose :thumbs up yellow:

I would get the chip and a set of gauges.

The CS is a real nice unit, but not as nice as having the ability to switch tunes on the fly. Also the mounting options for the CS in the Superdutys is kinda lame, none seem to have a clean appearance.

Thanks for the responses, the reason for not doing the intake/exhaust upgrades yet is because when I talked with Cody on the phone, he indicated that for the minor upgrades that I am looking at, they are not extremely benefitial. I understand the decrease in EGT's is very good to have, and I will eventually end up doing the exhaust, probably a 4" turbo back, but if I get the EGT guage with just a tuner I shouldnt have any problems as long as I am observant. :D
Keep the inputs coming, I like what I have heard so far :cheesy smile:

Yes Cody will get you in the right direction.

I had an EGT probe go bad, so instead of buying another $50 probe that will last a year, I'm going to buy an Interceptor gauge. It's kind of like a gauge with a limited function of Auto Enginuity. It can display estimated EGT temps or you can buy a probe and hook it into an aux port in the back of the gauge. Check it out....

"Power Stroke edition including bidirectional controls for injector buzz and cylinder are included in standard version."


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What he said, it's real nice to let off the throttle & click the switch & keep on going.

Estimated EGT? :shrug: I looked at the page (admittedly, I didn't spend a lot of time looking), but couldn't find this information. I would LOVE to know how they estimate that since if it is offered, it's likely a calculation of mass fuel, RPM, and time. That sucks if you have larger injectors because that throws the mass fuel stuff right out the window. I'd hate to risk my engine relying on a calculation when it's cheap to buy an actual sensor that will tell me exactly how high my exhaust gas temperature is.

In addition (and hate me all you want for saying this, but it's my opinion and we all have one), the layperson should not have access to tests that they don't understand. I'm not targeting you, but for 99% of the people out there who buy diagnostic equipment just to run "buzz tests" and "contribution tests" without knowing what they're looking at/for, only leads to lots of frustration of changing out #3 and #8 injector repeatedly because they always come up bad. That's small beans compared to throwing in a new set of injectors because a certain cylinder came up in the contribution test....only to find out after thousands of dollars that the cylinder in question simply had a broken rocker arm.

It also amazes me how much bad information comes out of having the ability to do a "buzz test". Easy example: White smoke due to unburned fuel with a rough idle CANNOT be diagnosed with a buzz test. Besides, those symptoms CANNOT be caused by an open or shorted electrical connection between the IDM and the injector. People will have other folks chase their tails for DAYS suggesting a "buzz test" for a concern like this. "Oh, check your valve cover harness".....no, that will not help you locate your problem in that case.

Now that I'm done venting, HATE ON!!!!!!

:cheesy smile:

no hating buddy lots of great info. just had a contribution test done on mine and was told the number 8 was bad so i payed 357 bucks for 1 injector, truck runs the same.:thumbsdwn:
just had my muffler put back on my 5" exhaust and the truck felt faster with stock exhaust :hmmm:. sorry to get off topic

Nothing is off-topic here! Let it flow!

cool, as soon as my tundra sells i will be ordering my chip :happy-dancing:. wifey put my spending on hold till i sell it though.:(

That is what I am waiting on... money from selling my tires and tonneau cover and Gryphon, after those are gone Ill get the phoenix and an insight for guages :D. and yeah, no such thing as off topic here, I want to learn as much as I can since i've never done anything with diesels before... except breath in their smoke! :hehe:
just a thought... one injector is $357?! all eight cost $1100 for remanned units.. gotta love the stealership! :throwup:

so i clicked on an ad at the top of this page and it took me to "dieselsite". after looking around I saw a few products, such as the wicked wheel, and now I have a few questions. First: what is the benefit of a wicked wheel and how would I know that I need one? I read that it helps get rid of "turbo surge". so second question: what is turbo surge?
I also saw a "intake heater plug" that says it helps unblock the intake. is this an issue? does this $9.00 part really make a difference in performance?
next question: are the intercooler and turbo boots that they sell worth it? do they help keep up pressure? do the stock ones really suck that bad?
Thanks for the answers! :D

i orderd a ww just to get alittle more turbo sound, yes i know silly. It will help reduce surge but thats it no performance gain. Ialso bought that delete plug, it just seems you wouldnt want any restriction of air flow, i could be wrong though. i would think as long as your stock intercooler boots are not leaking why change them, now riffraff has the really nice blue ones but i would have them just for the look.
i dont know anything about these trucks all this i speak of i have just gotten from reading on the net, so if Cody says anything different please listen to him :thumbs up yellow:

Thanks for the insights, I agree with the idea of "if it ain't broke, dont fix it" but at 172600 miles I would imagine that they are getting pretty worn... idk how leaky that would make them though.
another question: Cody said that I might have u-joint problems because of a noise I hear when decelerating off the freeway, He said I can fairly easily take the driveshaft off and check the u-joints, but my question is do I need a special tool to put new ones in or can I just push hard or hammer them in? Thanks again! :D

I got by for years with sockets, a vice, and a hammer. However, there are press tools out there now for doing u-joints. They're not hard, but you can damage the yokes and/or shorten the life of the new joints if not installed properly.

Youtube has a ton of u-joint replacement/inspection videos.

good to know, thanks :D, what's your opinion on the other things I mention in the previous post?

JMO so take it for what it's worth....

forget about the wicked-wheel, I doubt you have surge problems. Now after you put a chip on it you may experience surge & you'll know when you do, a ported compressor housing is the 100% cure but costs $$$. The w-w is the older style wheel which will flow a little less air but might take care of the surge. BTW you can get a w-w for $75 @ XDP

I don't put much stock in the heater delete plug deal, might make a difference if you're trying to make a 500hp engine.

The boots look nice & if you have a leak would be a good thing but if it ain't broke don't f with it.

I'd put the gauges & chip then go from there, I'm sure there will be plenty of things to spend your $$ on :thumbs up yellow:

Thanks! ill keep that in mind :D and I agree with you all that, save my money for things that work, and for when it doesnt :cheesy smile:

I'd be more inclined to change all the fluids, trans - differentials - P/S - antifreeze so you'll know everything is up to par.

installed my intake yerterday myself :woot:. truck is defently slower than before though :hmmm:

how big of exhaust did you install?

I think he said 5", lots of folks cut up & throw away a perfectly good exhaust when all that is really needed is to get rid of the 2 ton stock muffler.

I'm one of the ones that cut up the exhaust to put the Banks 4" that came with a kit that bought before I knew what I know now....live & learn :thumbs up yellow:

Good thing I didnt buy something before researching... :cheesy smile:, I'm glad I've been asking questions :giggle:

yes sir costly mistake, sounds great but that about it. truck was slow before now it just down right sucks. 715 bucks for the two :(. it was running alittle warmer to yesterday which i dont know why im just going by the stock guage but it was higher than normal.

I'm not knocking you at all, just trying to help tico not make some of the same mistakes I made.

I would not too much stock in the stock gauge

oh no i understand that what were all here for is to learn. if i could keep someone from spending money they dont have to im all for it.
im on other boards and heard everybody saying you need intake and exhaust it will wake your truck up, bull cause mine is now slower.

No hatin here Cody. I understand what you're saying about "estimated" EGTs...I felt the same way about it. BUT, if you do read more into it you will see that the gauge has an optional Aux. port where you can plug in an actual EGT probe... IIRC. And I understand about people doing the self tests.... kinda an iffy subject I guess. It's handy to have for those who know how to use it. But for some, it can confuse them worse.

More information on the sensor kit...

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